Front and rear (rear) driveshaft joints are different?

[89Vette]

Several autoparts stores and Inland Truck parts show the same u-joint for front and rear driveshaft replacement. I took my rear driveshaft to Inland to replace those u-joints and a rebalance.

They just called and said (after removing both joints) that the front one is bigger. I wonder why I haven't noticed a thread mentioning that...or found a parts store listing two separte numbers?

:bigears:

[Triathlete]

Yes, they are different. Isuzu list two different part numbers.

[89Vette]

Just confirmed the same.

Now I'm trying to find alternate sources for the front. I wonder if it's it the same as a trooper u-joing from any year? Have people found this from other than dealerships?

[Ldub]

Yes, they are different. Isuzu list two different part numbers.

That seems WAY odd to me, since there is no reference to it in the workshop manual...but it IS Isuzu, so...



I would think that there should be 2 sets of spec for the spider pin. Unless the spider pin is same-same, & they're using different size cups on the other one.

OTOH, when I look for the part(s), I'm see'n the same result...

$pendy little buggers.

[89Vette]

I'm almost finished calling all local autoparts stores. (Haven't tried alternate driveline shops yet). All of them show the same part for both u-joints -- which is incorrect.

I called my local Isuzu back. Trooper shows the same front (rear driveshaft) u-joint as the VX. When I'm calling local parts shops, I'm asking about Troopers too.

I haven't called Merlin yet, but local Isuzu price for the front u-joint is $121 (same as post above). Give me a break. Plus, I'd have to wait about a week to get it.

Back to my search....

[Triathlete]

If I remember correctly when I got mine from Merlin it was right around $70. The rear Isuzu part number is 8-97211133-0 and is refered to on the box as a "journal asm: prop".
I don't have a front one on hand.

[89Vette]

Finally! For other owner's reference.....

Neaco is an aftermarket supplier of u-joints. With a cross-reference from OEM part#'s to the Neaco line, I found the following:

Front UJoint: Neaco part#: 2-0317 Advanced Auto Parts ($34) --- OEM Part# 8-97167-317-0
Rear U-Joint: Neaco part#: 2-0383 Advanced Auto Parts ($14) --- OEM Part# 8-97216-133-0

CarQuest has the same part numbers as Neaco on their box.
Advanced Auto also had the Neaco numbers on their boxes.

Parts are installed and verified.

(As mentioned in prior threads, EVERY SINGLE AFTERMARKET parts company I called showed the same u-joint for front and rear. I even checked Trooper's designation -- same deal. AAP and CarQuest said they would send a parts correction request to their IQ HQ. I wouldn't count on the world being fixed thru my effort. Still you have this thread as an assist to find in-town parts. Once I figured this all out (after 4hrs), I found both front and rear u-joints in stock at AAP!) Tomorrow I'll get to see if this solves my hwy vibration. Hoping it does because the front u-joint was nearly seazed-up.

Hope this helps someone along the way!

[Triathlete]

Got to keep those bad boys greased!

[89Vette]

Just got back from reinstallation and a drive. This was the primary source of vibration I've been chasing since ownership!

Much better!

[Ldub]

Just got back from reinstallation and a drive. This was the primary source of vibration I've been chasing since ownership!

Much better!

Glad you finally tracked it down...

[samneil2000]

Glad you finally tracked it down...

x2

[LittleBeast]

But be cautious, replacing/rebuilding my driveshaft fixed my vibrations for a while, but they came back and until I corrected the angle of the rear pinion angle the vibrations would always come back eventually. Mine used to even go away for a few days after greasing the U'joints and spline on the driveshaft.

In the future just call Independent 4x. One 5minute conversation with them and I knew what I needed to order and from who and that the Ujoints are different, but my driveshaft shop didn't even need the info they just took measurements and had Ujoints in stock and fixed it up same day :-)

Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier. I hope your vibrations do not come back but if they do, look at adjustable lower links for the rear to correct pinion angle problems.

[LittleBeast]

CV joints on front driveshaft. I have an extra shaft sitting around somewhere, but I found no one willing to rebuild it, so I just got a better used one when both of the rubber seals (small boots) were ruined on mine.

[89Vette]

Boy, they sure didn't look anything like the wheel halfshaft CVs. In fact, I don't remember seeing any rubber!

Is this (front driveshaft) the type of CV someone was talking about adding to the rear driveshaft?




BTW...I showed this forum's procedures on CV inboard detachment and front-wheel-bearing repack to the service manager at Inland Truck. This is where I had my rear driveshaft rebuilt/balanced. He said he would do CV boot or CV axle installs for about $225-$250/side. Sounds pretty darn good to me!

Also, compared to EMPI's, I see CV halfshafts on eBay from Cardone. Oddly, they vary from $58 all the way to $175ish. (And, the $58 units say "NEW".) Why such a big spread? Is there a difference in this units? And, how do they compare to EMPI or NAPA pricing? IIRC, EMPI's are over $100. If these can be bought for $58, why redo a boot vs replacing the axle? Safer it would seem.

Thanks!

[Ldub]

If these can be bought for $58, why redo a boot vs replacing the axle? Safer it would seem.

Thanks!

The OEM half shafts/balls/cages, are FAR more durable than most of the Chinese made aftermarket replacements...