engine issues

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

well, at 154,500 miles it happened too me! I started getting code thrown for misfire on cylinder #6 with flashing check engine light while driving. I looked up my maintenance and saw the plugs were changed 80k ago..so called up Merlin and installed new plugs. Still throws misfire but no longer flashing and only during extended idle (not driving at speed)...moved coil pack to see if misfire moves with pack...doesn't change. (Went ahead & replaced ALL coil packs as ignition would get wet when it rained.) Smacked fuel rail with wood block above fuel injector & turned injector side to side and idling smoothed out for a day. misfire code (not flashing) returned next day with rough idle. Ran fuel injector cleaner hoping it was clogged injector. problem was gone for 2 days...returned after extended idle @ long red light. Called Merlin..ordered new injector and o-rings. Installed new injector...problem gone again for 2 days...returned after extended idle again at long red light. Still no flashing check engine light..so continued driving with fuel system cleaner (Gumout).... to sum up...everything I've done to this point seems to make engine run better & getting better fuel mileage....than.....coming home from work...crested hill running like a champ....lost major power...flashing check engine light (misfire cylinder #6). Turned VX over to my mechanic...did compression test...barely registers 12 pounds on cylinder #6 while adjacent cylinder shows 170 pounds and spark plug is majorly fouled with oil & bits of carbon. My mechanic pulled valve cover and still doesn't know cause...going to pull engine and then head to get too the bottom of issue...film at 11. Called Jasper about reman engine...no longer available. Asked about rebuilding mine if I sent it in...don't stock the parts to do it any longer. Also...I'm anal about checking oil level so don't go there :-) Oil level was full when engine dumped cylinder. Suspect valve issue & bad oil ring on cylinder #6. Ironically, she still runs quiet with no rapping, knocking, etc...

[SlowPro48]

Bummer...

Bad oil ring will cause oil burning, but not compression loss. Valve issues will though! Did he check valve clearance?

Why pull engine, then head? How about pull the head, then if source of problem isn't discovered, go ahead and pull the engine. Might be just a valve or head gasket issue and you won't need to pull engine...

[Triathlete]

I was also thinking head gasket. No need to pull engine to pull the heads.

[evillecutter]

im confused when you say they dont stock the parts to rebuild these engines anymore - ive seen engine rebuild kits for these from a half dozen different companies - are they all wrong?

[SlowPro48]

He wasn't saying rebuild parts aren't available anymore. The point was Jasper Engines doesn't stock parts to rebuild the 6VE1 any longer.

[evillecutter]

so an engine remanufacturer cant get parts to remanufacture an engine but i can... wtf? anyways, wrong thread for this - im with these guys i dont think pulling the entire engine first would be the best plan of action take the heads off first and see what youve got

[Scott Larson]

I'm gonna go with carbon build-up on #6 exhaust valve. The coil pack was weak or the plug was bad, causing poor combustion, hence the fouled plug and carbon build-up. Don't make the classic mistake of condemning the engine before a teardown and inspection, especially in a low compression situation, there can be many causes. Pulling the heads, not the engine, is your first and best course of action to determine the cause of this issue. If it is a valvetrain problem, it can be repaired with the engine in-place. As long as we're guessing at this point, that's my guess. This is just my two cents and I expect some change back...

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

Thanks for the replies..I'm with you guys on pulling the engine except I've known my mechanic for going on 13 years and he just worked on a couple of troopers and replaced an engine in one and had no issues swapping it out quickly plus he and his employee claim its easier to pull it and work on it than struggle with it in the vehicle. I think it's more of a business decision as pulling the engine means he can clear my vehicle out of the bay and it isn't tying up his ability to knock out inspections and quick turn arounds while he works on the engine in the back of the garage.

Plus, he really believes I am going to go the route of rebuilding or replacing as he doesn't like what he sees so far. I guess what I'm saying is he feels re-ringing one piston and doing a valve job on both heads and replacing a head gasket (this is all hypothetical so far) is not the best avenue for longevity. I don't know...I'm kind of pushing him that route though. I did just find this company today and talked with them and found out he is out of stock on our block but will rebuild mine if I send it in to him.

https://www.sandjengines.com/

At least mine isn't rapping, knocking, etc. Gives me hope maybe we can fix her up locally.

Thanks Scott Larson, I think you are probably spot on as my mechanic spoke of this only that he thinks the injector might have been the culprit for poor combustion and the damage was done before I replaced it.

[SlowPro48]

Ahh yes... the need to keep a bay free. Now we know the rest of the story! I guess on this board we tend to view projects from a shadetree mechanic standpoint - i.e., we're usually working alone with minimal toolage so hoisting a 300lb engine out of the vehicle, maneuvering it around and putting it back in without tearing something up is a last resort procedure.

Carry on!

(do let us know what he finds, though - for educational purposes!)

[yellowgizmo99]

Jolly a couple of people have used this company for rebuilts. https://www.barnettesengines.com/Home_Page.php
They are closer to you also, they are close to where I am so was looking at using them at one point.

[MSHardeman]

Any resolution to this issue yet? I'm getting a cylinder three mis-fire code, usually during extended idles, but I have gotten it during acceleration sometimes. I've done the coil pack switch (code remained with cylinder three), and installed new spark plug (code remained). I also seem to have a loss of power, but also have a pretty rough idle. If I listen to the exhaust it sounds like it's missing, but the engine sounds like it always has. Haven't done a compression test yet, and from the research that I have done the possible issues that I have found have been:

-faulty spark plug
-faulty coil pack
-faulty oxygen sensor
-faulty fuel injector
-burned exhaust valve
-faulty catalytic converter
-running out of fuel
-poor compression
-defective computer

Also reading around on the forum it may be due to a bad intake manifold gasket and/or bad IAC.

I really need to narrow this down, so any info from your experience would be helpful.

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

In my case we found two burnt exhaust valves on cylinder #6. Appears to have been caused by (thermal damage/possibly mouse chewing) to the injector wire/connector harness to #6 injector as it wasn't pulsing/spraying fuel as it should (lean condition) until my mechanic replaced the end wiring & connector harness.

On the bright side my engine looks completely devoid of gunk or sludge and looks new inside. My mechanic has checked out the bottom end and doesn't feel that new bearings are necessary. He has replaced the rings and honed the cylinder walls and was surprised at how little taper there was in the cylinder walls...maybe half a thousandths. He put the engine back together and his assistant is installing it back in my VX...should get her back anytime now.

[Scott Larson]

That is good news! Not nearly as expensive/painfull as feared, good luck, hope all goes smoooothly from here on...damn mice!!

[djvx]

good to hear that jolly roger. u still running the green diamond rubbers?

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

good to hear that jolly roger. u still running the green diamond rubbers?

no...after I wore mine out the company had gone out of business and I couldn't get another set so went with Yokohama Geolander MT's. I've heard that someone bought out Green Diamond and restarted production...when I went to the company website it showed only a few types of tires available for purchase while others not up to production. That was some time ago so perhaps they are now in full swing. I've been quite happy with the Yoko's though and feel they track better on dry pavement than the Green Diamonds did (tended to wander). The Yoko's got me around real well during winter...just had to watch black ice. The Green Diamonds helped on ice. Plus the Yoko's are C-rated while the Green Diamonds are E-Rated...quite a difference in ride quality...lol.