Update: installed longer rubber hose and stopped the leak! Added trans fluid and now no more clunk when it downshifts from 2nd to 1st. Yes! Thank you everyone, its like you were all here handing me the wrench!
Update: installed longer rubber hose and stopped the leak! Added trans fluid and now no more clunk when it downshifts from 2nd to 1st. Yes! Thank you everyone, its like you were all here handing me the wrench!
I got a new radiator installed. A day or two later I was leaking tranny fluid. My rubber hoses were corroded and the mechanic didn't catch it. I went back and they replaced my hoses. Don't know what size they are, but they will corrode over time.
My hoses were relatively new because I have an aftermarket trans cooler added for towing. The clunk sound has returned when the trans downshifts from 2nd to 1st as I come to a stop but I have NO leaks. I don't know if I need to somehow force more trans fluid into the system or just live with it. Since I have the trans cooler and longer lines, I may need more fluid than stock. My front wheel drive is not connected which could be causing the clunk. I've read on the forum that the clunk is pretty widespread and may be normal for our vehicle. I've thought about jacking up rear of vehicle and then adding fluid so that maybe there will be more room in the pan. Please comment if you have the clunk issue and have any advice.
It should take more fluid but the level in the trans itself should be the same. Are you checking with the motor running and having run through the shift sequence?
John Eaton
Original Owner
2001 Proton Yellow #580
Atlanta GA
http://wildtoys.com/vehicross/
http://vehicross.blogspot.com/
"Metaphors be with you"
Yes, we followed the directions and went through the gears.
When was the last time you lubed the u-joints on your drive shaft?
I've never lubed the u joints....ill add to the list....could that be the issue?
I was thinking of jacking the rear up as high as possible and then see if I could dump more fluid in.
It proved to be more of an issue than I considered at one point on the '96 Toyota Tacoma I used to have. I was feeling symptoms and hearing things that sounded serious enough that I had the Toyota dealer check things out just to be sure. I admittedly ended up feeling like something of a 4x4 newbie when they told me it was just the u-joints that needed attention, but, live and learn. There are two grease fittings on our drive shafts, one on the back u-joint (between drive shaft and rear diff), and one at the drive shaft yoke on the front.
When dealing with auto-transmissions, I've always heard that overfilling can cause issues just the same as under filling, so I'd just stick with the service manual recommendations and add fluid at the trans fill hole on the passenger side with the vehicle in the same orientation as it will be when you're driving. When it's full enough, it will start to run out of the fill hole. (And same for the rear diff fluid if that's what you were talking about). That's just me though.
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Since we are on the subject of transmission lines, anyone one know which is pressure and which is return? Am installing a transmission oil cooler and new radiator, while I have the front end apart for the timing belt change. Planning on dragging a utility trailer full of my workshop in October when I move to Vegas and figure it won't hurt having this extra cooling capacity, cheap insurance I figure.
Greetings, Earthling. We come in peace... Never mind "Paris to Dakar", the VehiCROSS looks ready for the Martian desert.
There are a total of 3 grease nipples on the rear drive shaft.
One on each U joint, and one on the slip yoke.
I have not found one on the front drive shaft. (Yet).
PK
Now that food has replaced sex in my life -
I can't even get into my own pants!!
Here is a video showing the grease points
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rzaNXz-ty34
Thank you for the video, Etlsport! I'm sure you just saved me 3 greasy hours.