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Thread: another rough idle problem

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  1. #1
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    Its a bugger. You would think that with as many sensors and bell and whistles these cars have there could be a sensor to detect a vacuum leak, or at least throw some diagnosis help when your car is idling at 2kRPM which is obviously an issue approaching any stop light or traffic jam... I never got a check engine light either through all my high idle issues...
    The TPS is located on the drivers side of the throttle body. directly opposite of your throttle cable cams. Its a simple part to replace with only a T20 torx screw. My assumption with this sensor is over the years of heat and grime under your engine the plastics degrade and cause friction on themselves. Also the years of throttling up and down create minute wearing on the keyed throttle plate shaft that goes into the TPS. This wear and tear can give minute false readings to your cars' computer thus creating idle issues and not throwing a CEL since the computer is still getting a valid reading from the TPS... Try my approach first, im curious.
    If you go forward to replacing the FPR the only tools youll need are a 5mm allen, skinny hands and a cheater bar to get the allen next to the firewall. youll also need some c-pin pliars and about 1.5 hrs of your time. there is a good write up on this site. when you have the FPR in site check the vacuum line feeding to the FPR from the back of your intake manifold. That bendy line can get brittle and crack, your FPR wont function properly with a cracked vacuum line which can create a rough idle as well. But when this happens it typically gives a stalling issue instead of a idle issue... either way id rather replace the $1 vacuum line rather than a $50 FPR. but while youre there munus well install $50 worthe of peace of mind... Hopefully all the info helps the trouble shooting. Hit me back and see if unplugging the TPS sorts it out. if so, it will save you some time and money and headache!!!

  2. #2
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    thanks again - gonna try if i have time tonight after i get off work - ...you know when you think about what computers and cell phones looked like 13 years ago its amazing any of the electronics on any vehicles this old still work at all - i know ive went through at least a dozen cell phones and 3 home computers in that time

  3. #3
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    tried your tps unplug and it seems to have done the trick thanks (as well as jiggling every electrical connection i could see and doing my best to check all the vacuum lines - they all seem good) - i dont have a code reader so i just left the neg battery cable off for a while and check engine went off - running good for the past 2 days
    Last edited by evillecutter : 08/06/2012 at 10:14 PM

  4. #4
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    Glad to hear it!

  5. #5
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    so about a week after i unplugged the tps it started again - just getting back now because i wanted to make sure i solved the problem first - i ended up replacing the tps and the fpr and i notced inside the tps there are little plastic parts that grab onto a metal tab to turn it - the metal had wore the plastic down so that the computer was thinking it was in the correct spot but it really wasnt - engine running great six weeks later

  6. #6
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    its back - any suggestions after i replaced all this crap last year?

  7. #7
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    looks like a $3.00 bottle of heat fixed it (pretty sure heat is just rubbing alcohol) - i think i must have had water in my gas or something and it only happened when the temp dropped to about -10 - i actually splurged and spent an extra dollar for the heat with injector cleaner in it

    ive always poured a bottle of seafoam in my tank about every 4 or 5 fillups but i think im going to start adding a bottle of lucas injector cleaner every fill up from now on and still use the heat before every cold season

  8. #8
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    Check the Air temp sensor, and the wiring to it... I just put a short story in the "idle problems fixed" thread.

  9. #9
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    thanks mike ill check it out!

  10. #10
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    anyone on this post had the problem of the car either in park or when changing into D having a huge shot of idle then just shutting off? and havign to pump the gas a bit when changind into R or D so tha car wont just shut off?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44ficus44 View Post
    anyone on this post had the problem of the car either in park or when changing into D having a huge shot of idle then just shutting off? and havign to pump the gas a bit when changind into R or D so tha car wont just shut off?
    Mine is doing that right now. I think it is the intake manifold gaskets again.

    Will be changing them for the second time soon...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by VXR View Post
    Mine is doing that right now. I think it is the intake manifold gaskets again.

    Will be changing them for the second time soon...
    yea its come down 2 that for me. its that or the cam positioning sensor.

    sux cuz i just had the supercharger installed. theres prob a leak somewhere. Not cool.

  13. #13
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    i dont think my is the manifold gasket great now wtf and w(where)tf is the cam positioning sensor? g-dmn sensors!!!!

    installing a supercharger sounds like friggin rocket science i stopped reading that thread lol

  14. #14
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    It is.. thats why i dont want to retake t off. Cuz the shop had ther work cut out.. and ill prob funk it ip more hajahajaha. Umm i think they are behind the motor on each side. Im changing that next just in case.

  15. #15
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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_uAnQFjTI4

    found this - they seem pretty important and could def be what is causing idle issues

    with mine, its not as much tht the idle bounces around i think i fixed that a year ago - but now its just like every now ant then its choking or starving for air of gas - the rpm never go up just down (last time they would bounce back and forth from 500 to 2000) - but 98% of the time its at 750 and idles perfect

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