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Thread: Is 76k too many miles to buy a VX with?

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  1. #1
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    Is 76k too many miles to buy a VX with?

    Hi everyone. I've wanted a VX since I saw one in '99, and now I have the opportunity to (Wife is out of the picture..well, almost!). I tried to get MetalMan of HI to sell me his proton, but he isn't interested in letting me ship to the states, SO, I've found a proton with 76k miles in fairly good shape other than the upper clearcoat peeling. Does anyone think I should wait until a lower mile specimen arises? Thank you in advance!

    Kurt

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pleco View Post
    Hi everyone. I've wanted a VX since I saw one in '99, and now I have the opportunity to (Wife is out of the picture..well, almost!). I tried to get MetalMan of HI to sell me his proton, but he isn't interested in letting me ship to the states, SO, I've found a proton with 76k miles in fairly good shape other than the upper clearcoat peeling. Does anyone think I should wait until a lower mile specimen arises? Thank you in advance!

    Kurt
    76k miles is not that high. Majority of people would actually consider that low miles and I am part of that majority. Just look at VXKat's checklist of what to be on the lookout for on a new VX purchase. Plus, post up other questions. Many people on here are very helpful.
    "THEORETICALLY, STILL A TRUCK!"
    2001 VX
    Mods

    2008 HUMMER H3

  3. #3
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    There is probably only a handfull of VX's with really low miles still out there and the chances of them going up for sale may be slim. I have over 145k on the odometer, lot's have over 100k and deermagnet is closing in on 250k.
    Probably the number one thing is to see if the one you are looking at has oil burning issues...if so, stay on top of the oil.
    Billy Oliver
    15xIronman
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    There is probably only a handfull of VX's with really low miles still out there and the chances of them going up for sale may be slim. I have over 145k on the odometer, lot's have over 100k and deermagnet is closing in on 250k.
    Probably the number one thing is to see if the one you are looking at has oil burning issues...if so, stay on top of the oil.
    x2!

    Hell, when I started looking at VX'es two years ago I came across one 3 hours from me with only 36k on the clock, but it was badly taken care of. Low mileage does not always mean great product. It depends on who owned it before you.
    Last edited by H3_VX : 07/24/2012 at 07:36 PM

  5. #5
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    Yup..a badly maintained 40-60K VX will give you more ..
    ....than a well maintained 90k ..IMO!

    If you go through the standard car buying checklist...
    ..plus the VX oddities/issues , that should serve you well.
    (VXKats checklist will help...it highlights the "issues")

    JBTW...really nice (almost immaculate) 2001 Ironman
    for sale near me with 90K miles....approx $9000 or close.

    Good hunting!

    jo
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    Absolutely the best $20 you'll spend per year on your VX.


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by H3_VX View Post
    Hell, when I started looking at VX'es two years ago I came across one 3 hours from me with only 36k on the clock, but it was badly taken care of. Low mileage does not always mean great product. It depends on who owned it before you.
    So true. If you're comparing a 36K vehicle that was stored outside all its life in the rust belt to a 76K vehicle that was garage kept in Arizona you'd be much better off to buy the higher mileage vehicle. It's all about condition and maintenance as the other folks have said in this thread. You'll likely have to wait months to years to find an extremely low mileage VX (<40K miles) in the color you want. Why wait if you can find a good condition higher mileage example for less now?

  7. #7
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    It's not the mileage but the maintenance. Check the records, first.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksambo View Post
    It's not the mileage but the maintenance. Check the records, first.
    ^^^ My favorite advice here.

    I was adamant about getting a VX with less than 75k miles. But... I bought one with 120,000 miles on the clock because it came with a thick folder full of maintenance records and it was in such good shape I was convinced it had been "well loved" and cared for in the past.

    Best of luck in finding something that gives you a good vibe!


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pleco View Post
    I've found a proton with 76k miles in fairly good shape other than the upper clearcoat peeling. Does anyone think I should wait until a lower mile specimen arises?
    You are absolute 100% BONKERS if you think HI has enough LOWER mileage units running around that you might actually find and get one!

    Wow...WTF are you waiting for?
    2001 Ebony VX and 1989 Custom 383 Corvette

  10. #10
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    After owning this VX i learn that :

    1- Low mileage doesn't traduce to great and good running vehicule.
    2- A low mileage car with a low amount of care would traduce in future head aches if not addressed.
    3- The mileage on a car just says how much it was driven,not how well it was driven.
    Dakar was just the begining.

  11. #11
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    Here's the questionnaire:

    A while back some of us put together a pretty detailed checklist to help buyers and sellers check important details. We also included some "VX specific" issues that have arisen over the 13 years. It doesn't cover everything, and don't be intimidated by how long it is.

    Just pick and choose whatever you want from this list....it's just a tool to get you started!

    Good luck!

    *****************************************

    DETAILED VX QUESTIONNAIRE /CHECKLIST FOR BUYERS OR SELLERS

    *****************************************

    ENGINE:

    • Is it the original engine?
    • Does it start easily/readily?
    • Does it run smoothly or is there any strange sounds or hesitation,choking, etc ?
    • Does it seem to idle smoothly, or is there any irratic racing on the tach, or other irregular idle, etc ?
    • Anything (noises/clinking/whinning etc...) noticed when it's under load?
    • Timing belt changed?
    • Evaluate engine bay- clean? dirty? Any evidence of leaking fluids of any type??
    • Evaluate fluid levels.
    • Evaluate air filter- excessively dirty? OEM or after-market?
    • Any known issues with it?
    • Any oil consumption noted, under ANY conditions?.....dripping, blowing smoke from exhaust or just consuming it
    • (some seem to consume some when on prolonged highway driving)
    • What type of fluids (synthetic oil or regular, motor oil, diff, tranny, transf case)?



    TRANSMISSION:

    • Is it the original tranny?
    • Does it shift smoothly between all gears? Both up and down?
    • Any unusual noises or clunking when shifting?
    • Is there a slight delay before the gear engages when shifting? (lash)
    • Any known issues with it?



    MISC PERTAINING TO ENGINE & TRANNY:

    • Any fluids dripping, ever?
    • Last time & what fluids have been changed?
    • Any unusual /excessive vibrations in engine or tranny, etc... - very subjective of course
    • Any problems with motor mounts?
    • Any unusual flashing of any lights on dash or shifter? (Mode selection switch may be bad)



    TOD / 4-WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM:

    • Any problems with the TOD (Torque On Demand) system?
    • Any clunking in tranny when decelerating or accelerating?
    • BRAND, MODEL AND SIZE OF ALL 4 TIRES
    • Do all 4 tires match in brand, size, model & wear?
    • How long have these current 4 tires been on?
    • Estimate of how much tread remains?




    SUSPENSION / BODY / UNDERCARRIAGE / ETC:

    • Are they still running the original OEM shocks? If not, replaced with what?
    • Has muffler ever been replaced? What's the status of the current muffler? Rusted, surface rust, etc? OEM, after-market? (Since, as I understand it, these mufflers are no longer available, so an aftermarket one with some modification to the pipes may be required.)
    • Has it had to go through emissions testing recently? (Some states require for registration, some don't)
    • Ever been lifted or had torsion bars cranked?
    • Condition of CV joints and CV boots? (Can be damaged after being lifted)
    • Battery- status, condition and age
    • Inspect thoroughly for rust!! Any evidence of rusted bolts anywhere?
    • Status of front bumper reinforcement bar? (Often rusts off completely)
    • Status of rear license plate light/socket/bracket -(often severely rusts) -will give indication if it was in a rust belt area.




    WINDOWS:

    • Electric windows work properly or bind?
    • Condition of window rubber track/gaskets...(many have ripped or been cut)
    • Look behind door panels to see if vapor barrier is present - (may indicate previous work on windows)
    • Window regulator /motor been replaced?




    BRAKING SYSTEM:

    • Any ABS issues, dash light illuminated, or other problems?
    • Original OEM brake pads or replacements?



    INTERIOR:

    • Condition of leather seats...scrapes, rips, tears, wear, abrasion, driver's side seat bolster
    • Condition of leather steering wheel - (often heavily scraped up)
    • Condition of inside door opening levers & mechanism (sometimes broken)
    • Condition of levers that bring seat back forward to allow access to rear seats (often broken)
    • Condition of 4 screw knobs on interior rear door panel (often break off)
    • OEM CD player still work correctly or ERR3 code? Any jammed CDs?
    • Any odors inside, such as smoke or dank/damp?



    EXTERIOR:

    • PAINT: Condition, scratches, dents, oxidation, matching panels, etc...
    • CLADDING: Evaluate/describe condition of all cladding - scrapes, holes, deformation, dryness, chalky appearance, any evidence of being "painted" or "treated" in any way? Includes Rhino-liner, Line-X, GatorBack, etc...
    • Are all cladding screws present? Any striped?
    • Ever taken off road?
    • OEM or after-market tail pipe?
    • Status of tail pipe - any deformation may indicate off road use
    • Status of rear lower cladding & rear gas tank skid plate- scrapes may indicate off road use
    • Status of undercarriage overall - scrapes, damage, etc... may indicate off road use
    • Does it have an OEM roof rack?
    • Are the 4 OEM rail caps in place and/or available?




    REPAIRS / SERVICE HISTORY:

    • Any service history records?
    • Any known repairs?
    • Any extra parts on hand?



    MISC:

    • For 2000 and 2001 model, OEM chrome wheels peeling on backside?
    • Determine the history of the car's physical location, if possible (i.e. East Coast, potential rust, desert, etc)
    • Any "mods" done not mentioned above?
    • How long have you owned it?


    revised 3/5/12
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  12. #12
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    Pleco,

    76K is actually low mileage for a vehicle this old. If you like the Proton you found & it's a decent price - go for it. I doubt you'll find one with lower mileage ... & if you do, it'll prolly be very expensive.

    Also, remember that you don't have to keep your search local. Members here are more than happy to check one out for you if you find one far away. I bought mine in MO and had it shipped to Northern VA.

    Tom
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  13. #13
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    I had 76k on mine went I bought it 25k ago

  14. #14
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    milage smilage drive it and see if you like it (warning you might fall in love) protons are the shizzle

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by evillecutter View Post
    (warning you might fall in love)

    yeah, I fell for my customers foxfire... these things are so frelling cool in person.

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