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Super VXer
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Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
Super VXer
Originally Posted by Leon R
Stay tuned for some "worn out to a split" photos!
As promised:
This is the outside (metal channel side)
This is the inside (glass side)
If you disconnect the regulator and move the window up and down with your hands, you can really feel the play in the "worn rubber" area.
So we seem to have a fundumental disagreement, Kat thinks this is caused by window "track" being too tight and I think that it is caused it by it being too "loose"! Could we be looking at two different problems? Afterall, she can't be THAT wrong!
Did Allison replace her "glass run" with actual NEW or used parts?
Afterall, she can't be THAT wrong!
Heck yeah, I could be wrong!
Remember, I'm not addressing the tilt problem.
My truck had 65k on it when I bought it, and my windows worked, but driver side was a little slow. When I took it apart I found my rubber track had been cut off, and there was NO rubber in the metal channel from the tweeter panel down I also had severe wind noise from that area.
I bought a used one from blujfan, when I installed it, I found the glass had more more slowing/binding when it went went thru the VERY TOP of the metal channel.
So I followed "phines" How To on the forum. Others have used this fix as well.
I widened and moved my vertical track forward, and the glass had much less resistance going up. The more I tweeked it, widened, BFH forward, the less resistance it had. As well as seeing the window slow, you can also HEAR the motor slowing so I felt quite sure I knew where it was binding.
After a while, I decided to buy a NEW glass run because I live in AZ and rubber can deteriorate faster. I then sold my used glass run to Tom.
The passenger glass run I have here from my salvage yard "project" is also split like your picture, but my guess is that's from it binding and getting tugged on up and down and it just ripped….not the rubber is wearing and is thinner, allowing more space.
Maybe we are talking 2 diff problems..maybe you're talking tilt?
VX KAT
....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.
Super VXer
Here, I'll save her some mouse clicks:So we seem to have a fundumental disagreement ...
OK, We'll agree to disagree.
Afterall, she can't be THAT wrong!
Oh yes she can ... anyone who puts pink & purple accessories on a maroon vehicle can't be completely right in the head ... God bless her little heart.
Super VXer
Last night, I saw even more evidence that binding is caused by too much clearance. You can actually see it in my earlier photo:
First, the bracket angle appear to be smaller than 90*. I am not sure if it was suppose to be 90*, but it appears to be bent in a direction to cause too much clearance.
Second, if you follow the rail up, you can see it twisting, once again causing too much clearance.
Combine this with worn/cut glass run and you have a binding problem!
Allison, I wonder if your rails are still twisted, which could explain why new window run and regulator did not fix the problem.
Do we have any photos of this "metal rail" from when these trucks were newer?
In ether case, I will need to purchase a DS glass run, are they still available from Issuzu?
Super VXer
I see your logic but this is the age old "chicken & egg" thing.
Did your bent rails cause the regulator to go FUBAR or did the regulator fail letting the glass tilt which caused the rails to bend???
We'll probably never know. I'm attacking the one known problem: the guides for the vertical track can not hold up to the stresses put on them. After I get my arms wrapped around that problem, I'll look into the bent rail issue.
BTW, if your rail is bent & you just replace the glass run (rubber weather strip), aren't you just kicking the can down the road. The new glass run will cut/tear eventually.
Super VXer
mine rolls up just fine as long as i keep a finger on the glass to keep it from leaning foreward while it goes up - which fix do i need?
Super VXer
Maybe just lube the rubber track the window rides in. That may be all the fix you need.
To diagnose it further, you'll have to remove the door panel & see if there are any damaged or worn components. Look at the plastic tabs that are glued to the glass. Are they broken or loose? Member SBC sells a fix for that.
Are the little white plastic guides on the crossbar (part that slides up & down the center track on the regulator) in good shape? Are they properly engaged on the vertical track all the way up & down? That's what I'm trying to fix now.
Are the glass runs (rubber weather strip that go all the way around the window frame) in good shape & are they staying in the tracks. BTW, these are the things that need to be kept lubricated (2x per year at least).
Wanna go KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)? One member wrote up how he used a bungie cord to pull up on the front of the window at it was being opened & closed. You'll have to find that thread for yourself because I never tried that. Try using the search function on 'bungie cord'. I doubt you'll come up with too many threads.
Super VXer
I agree, throwing parts, without truly understanding the core of the problem is a waste of time and money. And I might have already done some of it…
… as it turns out, my old regulator was NOT bad! At least not totally bad! I saw the back white blocks come away from the guide, as window tilted forward and ASSumed that this was the regulator that was causing this problem… Well, the brand new regulator will do the same thing!
Right now, I am leaning toward new glass run AND straightening of the “metal rail” as being the ultimate solution. So I can see why Allison’s problem wasn’t fixed with a new regulator and new window run. But first, I want to see if I can find some photos of this rail when it was new(er)! I hope someone can help me find it!
Evillecutter, If all it take is “one finger” pressure to keep your window going up, you might be able to do the “$3 bungee cord mod”. In my case, I would need 3-5 of those bungies.
Super VXer
I can't help you there son. If I can get some on the next regulator swap, I will. Those will be some difficult shots to take though.
Super VXer
Last night, I saw even more evidence that binding is caused by too much clearance. You can actually see it in my earlier photo:
First, the bracket angle appear to be smaller than 90*. I am not sure if it was suppose to be 90*, but it appears to be bent in a direction to cause too much clearance.
Second, if you follow the rail up, you can see it twisting, once again causing too much clearance.
Do we have any photos of this "metal rail" from when these trucks were newer?
In ether case, I will need to purchase a DS glass run, are they still available from Issuzu? - YES, still available, about $65.
1) Just so I'm clear, are you saying thru regular use, the glass and glass run actually caused the forward vertical metal channel (that my screwdriver tip is pointing to) to bend/twist?
2) The bracket you're asking about the angle…It was never 90 degrees, it's just as in your picture and mine.
I tried to move mine (to be a smaller angle), but I really only moved it maybe 1mm, if that.
"Phines" wrote up a "How To" on how to bend that bracket and widen the vertical channel:
http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...ewarticle&id=3
3) Anybody have a pic of the vertical metal channel "twisted"?
4) Here's two threads on BUNGEE CORD fix:
…and yer point iz?Here, I'll save her some mouse clicks:
Super VXer
OMG. I just saw the pix. It's worse/better than I thought.
VXer
OH BOY OH BOY. The shop thinks they fixed it. I stopped in and they were still working on it. I will pick it up in the morning and post pictures.
SO, they removed everything and started over. He said one of the plastic mounting brackets was broken, so he had to get new ones. ISUZU HAD THEM IN STOCK! WOW!!! And the replacements are now metal?! He said they only attach with a plastic (DUH) set screw to the glass, so he used window adhesive to mount to the glass. He had to place several washers under the right side on the top and several on the right side on the bottom (where I had the gap between the regulator guides and the track). He said it stays on the track with no problems but slows a little when the glass gets to about 3" from the top.
I won't be able to test it for 2 days until this adhesvie dries, but I'm excited. He didn't charge me any labor, just $35 for the replacement brackets.
I feel really bad because they started on it at 8am and just now getting done. But I'm thrilled it might be fixed!
Super VXer
The white guides pulling away from the regulator lifting track is what breaks the window tabs.I agree, throwing parts, without truly understanding the core of the problem is a waste of time and money. And I might have already done some of it…
… as it turns out, my old regulator was NOT bad! At least not totally bad! I saw the back white blocks come away from the guide, as window tilted forward and ASSumed that this was the regulator that was causing this problem… Well, the brand new regulator will do the same thing!
Right now, I am leaning toward new glass run AND straightening of the “metal rail” as being the ultimate solution. So I can see why Allison’s problem wasn’t fixed with a new regulator and new window run. But first, I want to see if I can find some photos of this rail when it was new(er)! I hope someone can help me find it!
Evillecutter, If all it take is “one finger” pressure to keep your window going up, you might be able to do the “$3 bungee cord mod”. In my case, I would need 3-5 of those bungies
It is a sign that the regulator is pulling away from being under the glass!!!!
It is why I used the washers.
It is important to use just the right amount of washers!
It has to hold the regulator arm (the part bolted to the window tabs)
Under the glass RELAXED while it is unbolted.
It has to be checked while the window and regulator arm are unbolted near the bottom and near the top of the window travel.
the window tabs should rest on the arm, while un bolted, relaxed.
Too many washers and it will be pushing under.
Too few and the white plastic guides will pull away.
Every window will need different adjustments for each alignment problem.
There is no one fix, that works for all.
Sometimes I Wonder......
Why Is That Frizbee Getting Bigger?
Then It Hits Me
Super VXer
I have also found that "how to" article, and I can see how making it wider might help, but I am comletely at a loss how it could possibly help to bend it forward!
Bending it forward, gives it more room to tilt forward, which, in turn moves the upper rear corner OUT of the rear glas run! How could it possibly help?
Super VXer
Keep in mind that those tracks are only designed to keep the glass parallel to the door. They are not intended to keep it from tilting. Lift & tilt are the sole responsibilities of the regulator. If those tracks are what is keeping the glass from tilting, then something is wrong with the regulator and it'll be a downhill slide to glass run tearing/splitting/bunching soon to be followed by bent tracks.
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