Window Regulator

[fotomaker]

fotomaker,

where you able to order just the cross arm or did you have to get the entire regulator assembly?

Jason

I had to buy the entire assembly. $93, if I remember correctly. The irony is that I could not get the motor off the old assembly so I removed the new cross arm and put it on the old assembly and installed it. All is working well!

[atilla_the_fun]

Hi all,
Its been a long time since I've posted here. I've been busy with my other mode of transportation (1978 Alfa Spider).


When I first got my VX three years ago, I bought the SBC fix before I had even opened my doors up. Both windows were tilting, with the worst being the passenger. I thought that it was a clip issue given the state of the forum at the time. After opening it up it was clear that the issue was with the wear of the plastic guides on the cross member. This was a terrible design flaw, but I assume that a scissor mechanism wouldn't fit inside the VX's door due to the curvature.

Anyways, after some lazy bit of searching, I came across this Isuzu Rodeo regulator from 94-97 (and honda passport). Does that cross member look familiar?

VX regulator:

Rodeo Regulator:

[twostep1n2]

My dad has 2001 trooper and we bought a new rear door regulator for it. when it came it looked almost identical to the V. So based only on the pictures posted here and the pictures on ebay I think you could drill out the spot welds on the mount brackets on the old reg and rivet them on the trooper reg and you would be good to go. THIS HAS NOT BEEN TESTED. just an idea.

[Mile High VX]

So when I installed my new regulator I played with it a bit to see what the issues might be.

I noticed that when I operated the window with the top bolts removed that it worked great and that the support moved away from the door frame as the window neared the top of the run. When it would go down the support moved back toward the frame as intended. This is likely what has allowed the use of more washers to be a good fix.

I had a thought...what if you used a longer bolt at the top. The kind that has a shaft and then threads. This would allow the support to slide in and out. You could use a heavy spring between the outer door side of the regulator attachment point and the end of the bolt to hold it against the door frame but one that would allow some outward movement as the window raised and the regulator frame move outward. You might accomplish the same allowance for travel by using this type of set up between the regulator and the SBC bracket.

I'm not an engineer but it seems like from the behavior that I observed in the components that this might help the issue a great deal.

Anyone try this or have any thoughts on my observations?