Window Regulator

[VX KAT]

Has anyone come up with a replacement for the plastic clip that attaches the window to the regulator? Isuzu tells me that it only comes as part of the window. Amazing. The window is fine... just need the 2-cent piece of plastic that is glued to the window and bolts to the regulator.

http://www.streetboutiquecustoms.com/vx.html

Tim Parker of StreetBoutiqueCustoms.com
Makes the metal brackets toreplace the small white plastic ones that attach to the glass.
I happen to live in his vicinity so I had him install them in my truck, there's pics in my gallery of him doing it and shows what they look like.
MANY of us have bought thee from Tim, and it almost always (but not all) solves the window binding problem. Charges about $65 for a set of 2.

Also makes Metal replacement knobs for the 4 plastic knobs on the spare tire cover.


There's a Passenger side Regulator on ebay for $49 (it's listed as a lock actuator...but that's apparently wrong..the pic is of a regulator)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_1318wt_653

[VX KAT]

For reference:
Here's pics of both Driver and Passenger Regulator. One laying on bubble wrap is brand new Passenger side, other one is Driver side - used, and still has the window motor attached.

ON pic #2, it appears the white plastic pulley type thing in one of the corners on the used one has partially broken off....yet it appears it still functions that way???

DRIVER -USED

















PASSENGER - NEW

[Marlin]

Ok, from my junkyard experiences:
The motors are interchangeable. I took the motor out of a trooper and swapped into our regulator.
You can get an entire new assembly from isuzuparts for 100 bucks shipped to your door in <5 days.
I did the tab upgrade from Tim. Worked awesome on driver's side, until my cable broke and eh on the passenger side. Better than it was, but even with the glass moved as far back as I can get it, still wants to rock forward if I roll all the way down. The plastic guide on the center rail is just too worn.
Consensus, the plastic guide on the center rail is the problem, as well as the fact that the center rail curve does not match the curve the window must travel, poor engineering.

[KRemo]

I just replaced the regulator and the clips that i used were an assortment pack for GM models that I got at Autozone. The smaller of the set fit the window and the stock bolts fit perfect glued on with 3M windshield poly. That was over 6 months ago and they are like brand new. I can get the part number for the clips next time I'm at Autozone if that helps.

[Leon R]

I am looking to replace the motor (at it just clicks, when I actuate it by itself). Advance autoparts lists several part numbers for Vehicross, ranging from $24+ core to $134+core! That is quite a range! Has anyone tried their motors?

[Leon R]

Another observation, replacement motors for driver's and passenger sides appear to be different, is this really true? If so, what is the difference?

[Chopper]

I was gonna say....most of the pieces/parts are GM. Those plastic clips are used in all sorts of Saturn, Chevy, and Pontiac mmidsized cars. Regulators too. Take your parts to a bigger Chevy stealership....they'll match about all of it. Isuzu still has them too, I'm sure

[Leon R]

My DS window was totally STUCK! I removed the Motor/Actuator and it was stuck. Even the window itself was stuck in its rails!

My motor/actuator assembly looked very nice on the outside:



However, taking apart the motor told a very different story!





It almost looks like at one point, it was partially full of water!

It appears that the rest of my mechanism is just fine, but I do need a new motor! I do not feel like getting another good looking, but ruined on the inside, used motor. What is the best "new/remanufactured" option?

EDIT: I ended up ordering "Cardone Remanufactured Window Lift Motor Part No: 47-4308" from Advance Autoparts. It was $132 - 20% discount. I will let everyone know how it works out.

[tomdietrying]

Sue,
I installed the passenger side window regulator. I'm waiting a couple of days for the glue to set up in this cold weather before I try it out. In the meantime, do you have any leads on a driver's side window regulator?
Thanks.
Tom

[VX KAT]

Sue,
I installed the passenger side window regulator. I'm waiting a couple of days for the glue to set up in this cold weather before I try it out. In the meantime, do you have any leads on a driver's side window regulator?
Thanks.
Tom

Maybe check with the several owners parting out a truck now…
Look on ebay for a seller selling any VX part and contact them to see if they might also have the regulator.
A new regulator is about $95 from Merlin, and they're available.

[Leon R]

Cardone motor looks like a perfect match! I did have to cut and splice the original connector (replacement motor came with a pigtail and a pair of vampire clips for splicing... naturally, I saldered it instead...).

I was also able to determine why it was so rusty on the inside! New motor came with "u-shaped" vent tube. The vent hole points to the top and this vent tube prevent water from entering the motor. Needless to say, my old motor didn't have that tube! So it must have been filling up with water at every rain! Make sure you do not loose this tube (as it is easy to remove without noticing it!).

Two motors side by side (with and without the tube).



Now I have a working window with what appears to be a very worn regulator . I do not wan to bother with another used one, so what are the best new options? I see that Merlin has them for around $95, but what about aftermarket peplacements?

[Allison3371]

I just ordered a regulator for my passenger side from Merlins place. He was on vacation but Dennis helped me. It was a back order but it's on its way now. It took 10 days. It was only $90 I believe with no taxes and free shipping. My local dealer wanted almost $200. Kat had informed me about the aftermarket fix but I opted for the easy way now option... I want to tint the windows and need it fixed now. I plan to do it right this summer when it isn't so friggin cold out and I can do it myself.

[Allison3371]

OH JOY! So today I took my VX to my mechanic to install the new regulator. (As much as I wanted to do this myself, my lack of free time is minimal) It's installed BUT it's binding in the front. The rubber guide is split and he says that is causing it to bind...He said that's what broke the regulator and has instructed me to buy that and he will put it in. I see it really is split, but wondering if this really is my issue. I read a few of the posts (thanks Kat for putting the links all together) and I see there are other reasons it could be doing this. Anyone replace this rubber guide thingamadoobie with success on correcting the binding issue?

[VX KAT]

OH JOY! So today I took my VX to my mechanic to install the new regulator. (As much as I wanted to do this myself, my lack of free time is minimal) It's installed BUT it's binding in the front. The rubber guide is split and he says that is causing it to bind...He said that's what broke the regulator and has instructed me to buy that and he will put it in. I see it really is split, but wondering if this really is my issue. I read a few of the posts (thanks Kat for putting the links all together) and I see there are other reasons it could be doing this. Anyone replace this rubber guide thingamadoobie with success on correcting the binding issue?

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the rubber guide is "split"…. Are you talking about the rubber strip the edge of the the glass goes into?

If it's that one, it goes around the glass edge, then down IN FRONT of the tweeter panel, where I'm pointing.

This is the rubber channel we suggest be kept lubed with something like pure silicone spray, or Teflon silicone. It has several channels within it, (not just the channel the glass edge goes in) and I wonder if that's what your guy means by "split"?

Also, some of us have widened the FRONT vertical metal track that rubber ppiece fits in to. I found that's where my window seemed to slow down a bit when going through the top part of that metal track. So I keep the entire front vertical part of the rubber strip well lubed there














WIDENING the metal track, so the rubber gasket has more room, so the glass edge doesn't get squeezed as tight and add silicone lubricant so the glass slides easily within the rubber channel.


1st pic BELOW has the rubber channel within the metal track, and the window edge is within rubber track.
2nd pic shows I pulled rubber away, and used a screwdriver to widen the metal "C" track. See all the scratches on the side of the vertical metal track, that's from me also using various pliers to bend and widen the track.

You can completely remove the rubber gasket, it's comes out/in very easy.




Hoep this helps!

[tom4bren]

Allison,

If you want a temporary fix till you can get a replacement seal, just cut the seal where Sue's finger is pointed in the first pic. Trash the piece in the front track & replace with felt weather strip from Home Depot or Lowes. I ran mine like that for several years till I finally got off my arse & put in an OEM seal I got from Sue. There are probably still pix of it in my gallery if you want to take the time to sift through all those pages.

Tom