Window Regulator

[tom4bren]

You'll have to remove the inside door panel & the window glass to do the mod. You do NOT have to remove the regulator.

When I got my VX, the rubber weatherstrip was torn & bunching up so that the window got jammed in there pretty tight. I had no other option than to remove the damaged section of the weather strip & replace with felt until I quit procrastinating & got the right part.

The only problem I encountered when switching back to the OEM weatherstrip was that I used some high grade adhesive to glue the felt in place. It was a som-na-beech to remove.

If you want to take a road trip to Fredericksburg, we could knock it out in about 30 minutes. I probably won't be back in Williamsburg area till March.

[VX KAT]

As I understood her, mechanic told her he had to remove basically all the door guts to remove the twisted/torn rubber weatherstrip/gasket piece in the metal channel area. But on mine, I know I pulled out the top and rear portion, then pulled UP on the remaining front strip and it came right out of that front metal channel, all the way out.

Only difference, mine was not ripped or bunched up, so that might make a little difference in how easy it is to pull it up and out.
.
.
.
.
*** oh, one tip I forgot to mention to her
when messing with the metal channel trying to widen it, be real careful not to let pliers slip off and hit the inside skin of metal door shell..you don't want a wrench imprint on your door...

[tom4bren]

Nah. If the weather strip is bunched up then it's already pulled loose from the track and it should come out real easy. IIRC, when I finally replaced the entire strip, the rubber was just held on by friction. There's no adhesive. So inside door panel & glass are all that need to be removed (actually a very easy process that only takes about 10 minutes).

[VX KAT]

Nah. If the weather strip is bunched up then it's already pulled loose from the track and it should come out real easy. IIRC, when I finally replaced the entire strip, the rubber was just held on by friction. There's no adhesive. So inside door panel & glass are all that need to be removed (actually a very easy process that only takes about 10 minutes).

But you only have to remove the GLASS if you're trying to install something like the felt, right? I didn't have to remove the glass at all, just yanked the strip, and put in a brand new one, all w/o removing glass.

[tom4bren]

Then you must have magic fingers. I don't know how you'd get the weatherstrip in place with the glass still engaged with the tracks. The window will still be in the track even in the lowest position.

Even if you can, it would probably be quicker & more easier to remove the glass since it's literally a matter of 2 bolts, tilt & slide out.

Of course, if your windows are tinted, you have to be much more careful on the 'slide out' part.

[VX KAT]

Then you must have magic fingers. I don't know how you'd get the weatherstrip in place with the glass still engaged with the tracks. The window will still be in the track even in the lowest position.

Even if you can, it would probably be quicker & more easier to remove the glass since it's literally a matter of 2 bolts, tilt & slide out.

Of course, if your windows are tinted, you have to be much more careful on the 'slide out' part.

I'd cleaned the metal channel, and treated every square inch of the new rubber strip with 303 andput a little Silicone spray in the rubber track where the glass goes.
Then, with glass in place, I was able to feed the rubber strip down some, and then grab it from underneath and pull it down into place. I used the electric window to position the glass where it made it easiest to get the rubber strip where I wanted it. The window edge actually pushed the rubber right into place, worked great.

And you're right, the rubber strip is just held in by friction, no glue.

And watching Tim remove the glass when installing my SBC brackets made me quite sure neither Dave or I was gonna touch it! KISS!
(bet ya'll didn't know that last S stood for Sue did ya?)