Allison,
Fingers crossed that the mechanic is as good as his word.
Just in case, my 'new to me' regulator should be here on Saturday so if sumpn goes wrong, we'll still have you covered.
Tom
Allison,
Fingers crossed that the mechanic is as good as his word.
Just in case, my 'new to me' regulator should be here on Saturday so if sumpn goes wrong, we'll still have you covered.
Tom
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
Keep in mind that those tracks are only designed to keep the glass parallel to the door. They are not intended to keep it from tilting. Lift & tilt are the sole responsibilities of the regulator. If those tracks are what is keeping the glass from tilting, then something is wrong with the regulator and it'll be a downhill slide to glass run tearing/splitting/bunching soon to be followed by bent tracks.
Allison, yes, I have the same problem. But rather than bending, I might try washer/approach.
I tried the washer approach, but of course it pushed the entire bar out causing the bottom clip...that is fine...to be too tight, thus the window wouldn't go up. So that didn't work for me.
The white guides pulling away from the regulator lifting track is what breaks the window tabs.
It is a sign that the regulator is pulling away from being under the glass!!!!
It is why I used the washers.
It is important to use just the right amount of washers!
It has to hold the regulator arm (the part bolted to the window tabs)
Under the glass RELAXED while it is unbolted.
It has to be checked while the window and regulator arm are unbolted near the bottom and near the top of the window travel.
the window tabs should rest on the arm, while un bolted, relaxed.
Too many washers and it will be pushing under.
Too few and the white plastic guides will pull away.
Every window will need different adjustments for each alignment problem.
There is no one fix, that works for all.
OH BOY OH BOY. The shop thinks they fixed it. I stopped in and they were still working on it. I will pick it up in the morning and post pictures.
SO, they removed everything and started over. He said one of the plastic mounting brackets was broken, so he had to get new ones. ISUZU HAD THEM IN STOCK! WOW!!! And the replacements are now metal?! He said they only attach with a plastic (DUH) set screw to the glass, so he used window adhesive to mount to the glass. He had to place several washers under the right side on the top and several on the right side on the bottom (where I had the gap between the regulator guides and the track). He said it stays on the track with no problems but slows a little when the glass gets to about 3" from the top.
I won't be able to test it for 2 days until this adhesvie dries, but I'm excited. He didn't charge me any labor, just $35 for the replacement brackets.
I feel really bad because they started on it at 8am and just now getting done. But I'm thrilled it might be fixed!
Well it appears they fixed it. It goes up and down with no tilt now, but it's really slow and REALLY slow at the top. Also, the rubber on the top of the door panel that runs along the glass now flips under when the window goes down. Maybe due to the shop moving the glass closer? Not sure, but at least I can tint the windows now. Here are some pictures on how they repaired it.
(This is the passenger door)
Before:
Bottom right track after shimming:
Top right track after shimming:
New metal glass mounting brackets from Isuzu:
This is how the guides seat now:
Any suggestions to keep the top rubber gasket from buckling under?
Last edited by Allison3371 : 02/02/2013 at 11:14 AM
Also, this is how he had to relocate the top guide bolts:
My guess…
that strip has multiple fasteners along it that fasten to the metal tabs on the door shell…sounds like he didn't line it up and hook onto each fastener. Once fastened, that strip can't flip down.
You can pry it up starting at the door lock knob. Be very careful doing it as that has a metal rod inside and if you bend that, it will be a PITA to get it back flat.
ALSO…the slowness TOWARD THE TOP….means it NEEDS LUBRICATION!!! Review the posts that talk about lubricating the rubber channel. Very important, or you'll end up burning out your window motor. Can use 100% pure silicon spray, Teflon Silicone, Dive Silicone
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...47&postcount=8
And consider the discussion earlier in this thread about whether the vertical metal channel needs to be windened and possibly moved a little forward. I, and many many others have done that, with great improvement in the slowness, as it relieves some of the pressure/friction on the front edge of glass along the rubber track. LeonR disagrees with this theory however.
VX KAT
....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.
Here's pics of that stripit's got rubber on the top, but it has metal in it and bends easily!
It hs some fuzzy stuff along the strip to keep dirt out of the window mechanism, and to clean the window (somewhat)
Glad you got it fixed!!!
I got the regulator from Buffy over the weekend. I'm all ready to install then modify/fix my old one ... as soon as I get my VX back!!!
Last edited by tom4bren : 02/04/2013 at 08:22 AM
see question below...
Last edited by Devvon : 06/22/2013 at 02:22 PM
Has anyone found a workable solution to repair or replace the small white plastic guides that keep the regulator on the track? On the side with two guides, I have one completely missing and the one on the other side is broken.
I have an idea rattling around in the noggin.
I hope to impliment this Friday since the DS on the Proton has gotten really bad. I'll keep you posted.