Some folks asked for these instructions. I didn't forget, just tired of procrastinating (actually I had to remove my airbag light & it's the same process). Hope these instructions help.
Start to finish takes about 45 minutes.
Some folks asked for these instructions. I didn't forget, just tired of procrastinating (actually I had to remove my airbag light & it's the same process). Hope these instructions help.
Start to finish takes about 45 minutes.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
I want to go in the opposite direction...
(Hey, it's already part way there!)
Whats that rectangular slot for in the thing where a CD player is supposed to be?
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
Who have I seen more than one post about pulling/disabling the light? Is it typically the ABS itself...and a hard/expensive part to find/buy?
I assume you have brakes (but not ABS function) when your light turns on?
I've had two ABS problems (with other vehicles in the past). Both times, I got them fixed and it was expensive. IIRC, it was necessary -- unless I wanted to attempt a retro non-ABS conversion.
2001 Ebony VX and 1989 Custom 383 Corvette
Thanks Tom.
I replaced the ABS module once and after a year the ABS light came back on. Just thinking about pulling the bulb and WHAM... here's the PDF.
Way to go dude.
ROFL. Yup, still running the OEM sound system complete with 6 disc changer that has attitude problems & blown speakers. I'm not through procrastinating yet on the upgrade.
Yah, our ABS system is: prone to failure, expensive to fix, & IMHO counter productive (I still blame my ABS for my accident a cupla years ago). The conversion to non-ABS is easy ... just don't fix it when the light comes on.
& yes, the brakes still work when your ABS poops out. I think it was Deermagnet that had a writeup about doing the pin bendy thing to disable the ABS & turn off the light. I'm glad it worked for him but my ABS light stayed on after that so that's when I removed the bulb.
BTW, the 'lectric tape I covered the Air Bag light was not dense enough. You can still see it illuminate at night (can't see it during the day though). It would've been fine if I hadn't over thought the situation and stuck the bulb (covered in electric tape) back in the hole.
I cut the ABS lines a few years ago, brake response improved, still want to pull the entire ABS unit and put a JEGs manual proportioning block in there. That way I can custom the brake pressure and get rid of my front dive. I have cross drilled rotors, kevlar brake lines, EBC green stuff pads, new calipers and the brakes are better, but not as good as my wife's trooper brakes
I'm not so sure if that'll work Chris...
When braking...scrubbing off inertia, the front is gonna dive about the same, no matter which axle is doing most of the braking. (assuming the same amount of stopping distance is the comparison)
I'm thinking HD torsion bars may be more helpful...
I have thought of that as well, but I suspect the auto proportioning valve built into the factory housing has failed. I had the same problem even when it was stock. HD torsion bars are looking good in my near future. I also lowered the front end when I went SFIFS,performs far better on the trail, but the dive definitely got worse on the street, perhaps that is more motivation to give Matt over at Indy a call?