Lookin good mad dawg! Fyi, brand new razor blade seems to be the best way to cut cladding, or airsaw, i wouldnt go sawzall
Lookin good mad dawg! Fyi, brand new razor blade seems to be the best way to cut cladding, or airsaw, i wouldnt go sawzall
"Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."
"If You Can't Solve A Problem, It's Because You're Playing By The Rules."
"The Perosn Who Doesn't Make Mistakes Is Unlikely To Make Anything."
-Paul Arden
Too late man, its a done deal. I can't see a way to avoid cutting the rear fender clad with the Sawzall because the clad is tucked up right against the sheet metal. The only way to avoid would be to remove the fender clad completely. BUT...if you're referring to the front piece, yes that is easy with a small hand saw.
3" suspension lift, shocks: Rancho 9000, tires 33"x11.5", wheels 16"x8", offset= 0, no front sway bar
Last edited by Maddawg : 01/10/2013 at 06:13 PM
looks great - the way our fenders flare it almost looks like the tires are just a continuation of the sexy vx curves
That's one fine lookin' Ironman if ever there was one, NICE JOB!!
Vixer Fixer
Thanks guys!!
Looks great Maddawg.
Good choice on the rims and tires. It reminds me of my Ironman a few years back.
Trimming front edge of clad: Determine the area of contact and lay some masking tape at the outer edge and the inside edge to define the clearance cut. This is the right hand side
I used a jigsaw which creates some heat and leaves a bit of slag behind the blade. Hey, donworryaboudit! It comes off with fingers or razor blade. So its best to not take too much off at first, can always come back and remove more if needed.
Good! Now go do the other side.
Last edited by Maddawg : 01/10/2013 at 06:00 PM
Ok, I'm done with the left side. I pretty much followed Kate's guide and I do have clearance, but its nothing to rave about. I'm pretty sure I'm going to experience some rubbing with suspension articulation.
This pic shows the screws removed from the splash guard and the next pic shows the screws themselves.
Now the splash guard can be pulled away and bent upward. I used a bungee to my door mirror to retain it.
Now the structure is revealed below.
And for comparison this is the clad and sheet metal removed.
Save this anchor/clip nut.
The next two pics show the edge that needs to be hammered back.
I used a small handsaw to cut away this piece because there was nothing behind it now.
Because I'm such a neatnik I radiused the lower corner. The hole above it is where the saved anchor/clip nut will be reused (in the sheet metal behind).
Now tuck the splash guard back behind the clad and reinstall the screws. Done.
Well, not quite. I didn't like how close this section of the splash guard looked to my tire so I sawed it off.
Well, I hope this is informative and good luck with installation of your humongus tires in the future. If I missed anything let me know.
Last edited by Maddawg : 01/10/2013 at 05:51 PM
Great write up/pictorial
Yup..you'll probably find yourself doing additional trimming over
the next several weeks as you flex everything more.......I know I did !
Jo
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No cladding trim needed.....
...but entire axle rotates forward as you lift.
My tires are very close to the front of the rear arches...with plenty of space to the rear.
Adjustable Lower Links fix this...Ryan (LittleBeast) has 'em......
.....they are on my shopping list.
jo
Very nice! Keep up the good work!