Maddawg's Madness /starting a make-over.

[Maddawg]

The jury's still out on whether or not I will be just upgrading to 33" tires or going all out for the body lift and 35" tires.

From what I have read here in the forums, the 35" tires are a no-go without the 4.77 ring and pinion to maintain a reasonable proximity to the stock 4.35 R&P gearing with stock 29.6 dia tire. Probably finding Nessie in your swimming pool would be easier as I understand it. But I'm not ruling out the possibility.

So for openers here's what I'm beginning with: My VX already with a 3" suspension lift. General Grabber 255/55R18 tires.


I have received the Procomp wheels I will be mounting for either a 33" or 35" tire. 16x8 / 0" offset (4.5" backspace) / 108mm center. In case you're wondering, the outside edge measures 1 1/2" further outboard, the inside edge measures 1/2" further outboard than stock.

Nah, you can't have my old wheels, they're going onto my Axiom.

Now its sit on my hands and wait to hear (its been a week now) from the two outfits who are going to do the body lift. Stay tuned for further developments!

[eternal21]

Still plan on parking it in the garage when you're finished?

[Maddawg]

Still plan on parking it in the garage when you're finished?

Darn right, and chained to the floor, lol. Yes, I know what your asking, it will get used regardless of pretty. I sunk about 25K into my previous Baja and everyone thought "Thats it, he'll never take it off-road again", wrong! I doubt if I will get to the "swamp buggy" tires, I kinda like the rally look, but just thinking at the moment, still not sure. I like Little Beast's setup a lot.

[eternal21]

Darn right, and chained to the floor, lol. Yes, I know what your asking, it will get used regardless of pretty. I sunk about 25K into my previous Baja and everyone thought "Thats it, he'll never take it off-road again", wrong! I doubt if I will get to the "swamp buggy" tires, I kinda like the rally look, but just thinking at the moment, still not sure. I like Little Beast's setup a lot.

I was meaning, will it fit through the door when you get finished.

[Maddawg]

I was meaning, will it fit through the door when you get finished.

Duh, that's a good question, not thought of that. Well, it probably will but now it will be a tighter squeeze for me, between it and the workbench.

[Ldub]

Duh, that's a good question, not thought of that. Well, it probably will but now it will be a tighter squeeze for me, between it and the workbench.

A lot of times, headroom (door clearance) becomes an issue as you go up...

Mine is too big.

[JoFotoz]

35's and standard gearing is NOT a "No Go" IMO...

From what I have read here in the forums, the 35" tires are a no-go without the 4.77 ring and pinion to maintain a reasonable proximity to the stock 4.35 R&P gearing with stock 29.6 dia tire. Probably finding Nessie in your swimming pool would be easier as I understand it. But I'm not ruling out the possibility.
:

I've been driving on 35's for approx 3 years with the OEM diffs...including Moab twice.

Yes, there are changes to acceleration and shift points...
....and your speedo will read under.

But its perfectly do-able with a little driver modification!!

The 4.77's are difficult to find...but not impossible.
I have found two matched sets in the past 1.5 years......with help from friends here
and also a simple " 4.77's Wanted" post over at the Planet.

I blew the back one up from the original set immediately ( bad seal)....
.......hence searched for a replacement set.

I will be putting the 4.77's on with my 35's...but its more because I got a set with Aussie Lockers front and back...than a gearing issue for me.

Why not start a search now for the 4.77's....go with 35's....
....and swap out the OEM diffs when ya find the 4.77's?

Just a thought ....

And ....a body lift is not required for 35's...given some grinding and hammering.
Plus..no body lift helps keep Center of Gravity lower.



Jo

[Maddawg]

35's and standard gearing is NOT a "No Go" IMO...



I've been driving on 35's for approx 3 years with the OEM diffs...including Moab twice.

Yes, there are changes to acceleration and shift points...
....and your speedo will read under.

But its perfectly do-able with a little driver modification!!

The 4.77's are difficult to find...but not impossible.
I have found two matched sets in the past 1.5 years......with help from friends here
and also a simple " 4.77's Wanted" post over at the Planet.

I blew the back one up from the original set immediately ( bad seal)....
.......hence searched for a replacement set.

I will be putting the 4.77's on with my 35's...but its more because I got a set with Aussie Lockers front and back...than a gearing issue for me.

Why not start a search now for the 4.77's....go with 35's....
....and swap out the OEM diffs when ya find the 4.77's?

Just a thought ....

And ....a body lift is not required for 35's...given some grinding and hammering.
Plus..no body lift helps keep Center of Gravity lower.



Jo

Thanks for the tip Jo! This is really good feedback. BTW, I never heard of the Planet. I'll see if I can find it. Can you tell me what to expect price wise for the 4.77's, just a ball park number. You can PM me if you dont want to mention it here. I was measuring my tire clearance at the back and with 33's I will need to put the hated rear bump stops back on. (They've already been cut, but they were bottoming out so I took them off. With the 35's and no body lift I will have to put the Energy full size stops back on. Then the hard ride returns. Damned if I do and damned if I don't.

[JoFotoz]

You have a PM....

[VXorado]

Plus..no body lift helps keep Center of Gravity lower.
Jo

My bud Jo... I always hear this and ask:

When considering the same amount of lift needed- we'll say 4-5" for 35" tires. A suspension lift raises the frame, engine, transmission, transfer case, gas tank, body where a body lift just raises the body and leaves everything else lower. With that said, how does a body lift increase the center of gravity more than a suspension lift? It should be less, right?

[tom4bren]

My bud Jo... I always hear this and ask:

When considering the same amount of lift needed- we'll say 4-5" for 35" tires. A suspension lift raises the frame, engine, transmission, transfer case, gas tank, body where a body lift just raises the body and leaves everything else lower. With that said, how does a body lift increase the center of gravity more than a suspension lift? It should be less, right?

True ... but ... he's talking the difference between adding the body lift on top of the 3" suspension lift already in place, and just doing more trimming the clear the big meat.

[VXorado]

True ... but ... he's talking the difference between adding the body lift on top of the 3" suspension lift already in place, and just doing more trimming the clear the big meat.

That makes sense. I have 5" lift for the 35s, has anyone fit 35s with 2-3" suspension and extra cutting?

[Triathlete]

That makes sense. I have 5" lift for the 35s, has anyone fit 35s with 2-3" suspension and extra cutting?

I believe Etfrans (ex bigmeats) fits that description. It has major wheel well trimming to clear.

[JoFotoz]

Yup Tom, exactly that...

True ... but ... he's talking the difference between adding the body lift on top of the 3" suspension lift already in place, and just doing more trimming the clear the big meat.

I run Calmini coils with a 1 inch spacer for a lift of about 3.5 inches......on 35 inch Nitto Mud Grapplers

Yes...I had to do some surgery to the back of the front wheel wells for clearance...

...and some cladding trimming at the front.

I'd rather cut out, cut off wheel well bits that are NROV ( not required on voyage!)..
...than lift the body any higher.

jo

[Maddawg]

I had a nice talk with JoFotoz by phone last night and he was very well versed in pros and cons of 33'' and 35" tires and gearing also turned me on to Planet Isuzoo. Thanks very much for the help!!