RADO's Off Road Rig- Build Thread

[JoFotoz]

Looking

Jo

[VXorado]

Pretty awesome looking, wouldn't mind one as well. Maybe you can modify some rails to move the seat farther back? But that might lead to a new issue with the seat belt. Better play it safe and just get race bucket seats with a roll cage for a 5 point harness system. Oh if money grew on trees.

I'm definitely looking to replace the seats with something a little better for my size. When I do replace the seats, I'll figure out a cleaner way to modify the seat brackets. I do have one VX recaro spare and would only need one more to make an RS set...

Wow, nice work! It is a different rig altogether.. Which was tougher to get out, the dent on the roof or the one on the driver door?

Yeah Justin, the roof was absolutely awful to work on. The major rood dent was right above the windshield which had a metal frame underneath. Since I couldn't hammer any of it out, I resorted to body fill. Everything was covered with bondo dust for weeks... I think i still have some in my hair.

Looking

Jo

Thank you sir, PM inbound.

[VXCanada]

Thinking of wrapping my VX too... I like the slightly lighter than your green on the Khaki Matte color.

Yours looks great though! Nice job!

T.

[VXorado]

Time to catch up this thread for the official announcement of...

Project REBUILD 2014

Why? ...well why not?

Phase 1: Purchase daily driver to take place of VX. Completed August 22nd- RS licensed

Phase 2: Remove 3" bodylift: this includes cutting off rock sliders, pulling air compressor & removing winch plate. Completed August 24th

Phase 3: Install front rock bumper (acquired from Jo). Completed August 26th

Phase 4: Remove IFS and all front drive-train components from VX. Completed September 4th

Phase 5: Install Dana 44 solid axle under VX under the following configuration Completed December 5th

• Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44
• 12" Coilover suspension
• TnT Y-link control arms

Phase 6: Increase rear axle spring height to match front, build adjustable rear control arms

Phase 7: Install 5.38 axle gearing Completed November 7th

Phase 8: Purchase custom front drive shaft, finish front bumper, install rock sliders & air compressor. Completed May 9th 2015 (sigh, day before Moab of course

Future phase: Enlarge wheel wells, increase tire size to 37" tires installed in April 2015, wheel wells fitted properly August 13th



There it is.

[VXorado]

Phase 2

Body lift is.... OUT OF HERE!!!

These pics show how the body lift did really help with fitment of the 35s and allowed full suspension travel of the IFS. The first pic shows full up travel of the tire with the body lift- notice there is still a gap between the tire/fender. With the body lift removed, the tire is pushed into the fender and actually holding the VX up.

With the SAS, the suspension lift will have to be increased and I don't want the VX to sit really high. The body lift was an unnecessary 3" that needed to go.

[VXorado]

Phase 3

I picked up this rock bumper from Jo on my road trip last spring. Definitely an impulse buy! I wanted to fit it before Moab but I knew the body lift would need to be removed for proper fitment.

It's mounted now, but purposely left unfinished until I get the axle fitted. I will also need to buy/build a headlight bar so the bumper blends more the body.

I mounted the fog lights to get an idea of fitment but will probably scrap the dim Hellas and get something brighter.






I'll weld the bumper wings once I figure out clearance.

[Triathlete]

Can't wait to see the progress! Are you planning on pushing the axle forward a bit? Will help eliminate firewall interference issues and give you a bit more wheelbase.

[VXorado]

I'll probably push the axle forward a bit and that's why I didn't finish the bumper wings.

Moving the axle forward will provide many benefits; longer wheel base, longer drive shaft, and more tire clearance but I'm sure it will look odd if I push it up too far. Additionally I may need to get a toyota steering gearbox because it positions the pitman arm forward vs ours which is back toward the engine.

[ZEUS]

You forgot to mention the final phase where you take it to Moab next year and give it to me...

[Triathlete]

Are you going to stick with the TOD tcase?

[VXorado]

You forgot to mention the final phase where you take it to Moab next year and give it to me...

Yeah, just don't forget to bring me the big bag of cash!!!

Seriously we need to get you back in a VX.

Are you going to stick with the TOD tcase?

I want the non-TOD t-case so I can get 3:1 teralow gearing but for the short term, I'll stick TOD and get the VX back on the trails. I tentatively have a Moab trip planned in early November if I can get everything finished and reliable.

[Triathlete]

I'd also like to get rid of TOD but I'd like to find a different tcase that has more aftermarket available. When the time comes (I win the lottery or the Narubian prince sends me that check...until then my D44 will collect dust in my garage) I'll find something that will bolt up or have a machine shop make an adapter plate.

[VXorado]

I'd also like to get rid of TOD but I'd like to find a different tcase that has more aftermarket available. When the time comes (I win the lottery or the Narubian prince sends me that check...until then my D44 will collect dust in my garage) I'll find something that will bolt up or have a machine shop make an adapter plate.

That would be pretty awesome to go the custom route. Bartmans4 & I were recently talking about how the AR5 manual tranny is used in the H3/Colorado. I wonder if that means there are some easy alternatives that route... possibly the H3 Alpha 4:1 t-case?

[ZEUS]

That would be pretty awesome to go the custom route. Bartmans4 & I were recently talking about how the AR5 manual tranny is used in the H3/Colorado. I wonder if that means there are some easy alternatives that route... possibly the H3 Alpha 4:1 t-case?

The H3 4:1 is a no go... it is a slip-yoke style case with no means to remove the slip-yoke section from the back half of the case. I was hopeful it would work for my Blazer too...

I have some advice for you... don't put your hands on the bottom side of the axle when you are trying to position it. It really hurts & can deform your hand if it falls. And don't weld while shirtless... And don't lie down after heavy grinding until you have cleaned out your eyebrows... sharp shards of tiny metal can fall into your eyeball... that also hurts really bad.

I am excited to see YOUR variation of an SAS! Lots of updated, please!!!

[VXorado]

The H3 4:1 is a no go... it is a slip-yoke style case with no means to remove the slip-yoke section from the back half of the case. I was hopeful it would work for my Blazer too...

I have some advice for you... don't put your hands on the bottom side of the axle when you are trying to position it. It really hurts & can deform your hand if it falls. And don't weld while shirtless... And don't lie down after heavy grinding until you have cleaned out your eyebrows... sharp shards of tiny metal can fall into your eyeball... that also hurts really bad.

I am excited to see YOUR variation of an SAS! Lots of updated, please!!!

Too bad about the H3 t-case. That's a waste of the 4:1 gears.

Ha, good safety advice!!! It's amazing how much that D44 weighs and I've been moving it around while sporting flip flops. Just a matter of time until I mash a toe.