RADO's Off Road Rig- Build Thread

[VXorado]

Phase 4: IFS is YANKED out!!!


Big thanks to Scott (Bartmans4)!!!

Scott came by last weekend and helped cut out all of the IFS. I worked on the passenger side while he tackled the driver side. It really made the job much more manageable. Not terribly difficult but loud, dirty, and somewhat exhausting. We burned up a brand new Harbor Freight grinder (no surprise) and a brand new Dewalt grinder (big surprise). Since they were new, I got replacements for both.

Everything on the front was in tip-top shape. If anyone needs something (or wants a spare), let me know and I maybe able to put it aside.

IFS before it got the cutting wheel.


AND...

All the goods (minus the halfshafts).


No going back now.



Frame all cleaned up.



Next I'll start showing off the replacement equipment. We're moving along nicely for the November deadline.

[Triathlete]

That's purdee! Are you going to plate the frame to strengthen it a bit?

[JoFotoz]

......

I am SO watching this closely!!

Send Scott over here

I'm gonna 'practice' on the crashed one I have first...

...my cajones must be a tad smaller than yours !!


Jo

[jmayer40]

Hope you didn't toss the old. Some people would kill for that ABS ring lol

[VXorado]

That's purdee! Are you going to plate the frame to strengthen it a bit?

Thinking about it... the coil over towers I got are quite large and welding them on will add some rigidity to the frame. Also I plan on using a bar in the engine bay to connect the towers, which should make for a nice support crossmember.

......

I am SO watching this closely!!

Send Scott over here

I'm gonna 'practice' on the crashed one I have first...

...my cajones must be a tad smaller than yours !!


Jo

You know it Jo. Big cajones!!!

We'll see how it goes...

Hope you didn't toss the old. Some people would kill for that ABS ring lol

I haven't gotten rid of anything. I didn't know the ABS rings were that valuable since most here have a broken ABS module. Thanks for heads up, I'll pull them off before recycling the scrap metal.

[Otwobme]

Looking great, just to let you know. If you need a lift for anything my shop is open. Not just to you but to any vx'ers. No charge.

[twalker920]

Nice progress guys!

I need to come hang out with you sometime soon. I'll bring beers and an amateur level of wrenching ability.

Maybe you pros can tell me if all the new squeaks and rattles I have are lack of grease or something more serious.

I haven't done a single off road trip this year

Work is insane, and I have no idea where the summer went.

[VXorado]

Looking great, just to let you know. If you need a lift for anything my shop is open. Not just to you but to any vx'ers. No charge.

Thanks for the offer Jake... a lift would be really handy when I get further along.

It was a bummer I missed the latest meet... we should try again soon.

Nice progress guys!

I need to come hang out with you sometime soon. I'll bring beers and an amateur level of wrenching ability.

Maybe you pros can tell me if all the new squeaks and rattles I have are lack of grease or something more serious.

I haven't done a single off road trip this year

Work is insane, and I have no idea where the summer went.

Sounds good Tom, you bring the wrench... I'll provide the beer.

[Triathlete]

Progressing nicely! And like Jo...watching closely and taking notes

[VXorado]

I got the axle under the VX today to get an idea of clearances and bracket locations. I almost immediately ran into a problem...

This axle I picked up a while back came with high steer and 1.5 DOM tube steering links. I figured the high steer was a nice addition that wouldn't be a problem to use. I've seen other SAS Trooper builds use the high steer but for whatever reason, it's not going to work for this build.

Steering link on frame rail.




Now look at the height! With high steer hitting the frame rail, this would be full compression (on bumpstops). It would need a ride height at least 4" higher than the pic.



Obviously, I won't be able to use the high steer if I want to keep the VX low. Also, I took a comparison pic of the tire in original place vs. 3" forward. I like the looks of the tire pushed forward.

[JoFotoz]

Maybe flip the steering upside down..
..and if required 'bow' the link to clear pumpkin?

Just a quick..'I'm about to eat dinner'..thought!

And YEA!..fwd 3 inches looks good..and will give a better entry

Probably worth the 0.02 cents!

Jo

[Triathlete]

Notch and plate the frame?
In my mind I was thinking 5-6 inches forward for the axle.

[Triathlete]

Is it just the photo angle or the axle is not sitting at the right rotation. The knuckles/c's are rotated back. If rotated forward (rear of pumpkin angled up a bit) the steering arm will rotate down an inch or two (still not enough but a start). And as Jo said, flip the link to the bottom of the arms...there's another inch.

[orion]

OR...... Just not use the high steer. Looks to me like the "stock" steering location will work fine.

[VXorado]

Maybe flip the steering upside down..
..and if required 'bow' the link to clear pumpkin?

Just a quick..'I'm about to eat dinner'..thought!

And YEA!..fwd 3 inches looks good..and will give a better entry

Probably worth the 0.02 cents!

Jo

Flipping the tie rods would work, but the top of the high steer is tapered and only fits the tie rods from top-down.

Notch and plate the frame?
In my mind I was thinking 5-6 inches forward for the axle.

I could notch the frame but that would a be a big cutout and still might not get me to the desired ride height. I'd like to be 4-5" lower at full compression. --- if possible

I'll probably play with the axle tire location more but will probably end up around 3-4" inches forward. If I go more, the tire will be pushed out of the wheel well too much for my liking. I'll take another pic with the axle pushed further forward for comparison.

Is it just the photo angle or the axle is not sitting at the right rotation. The knuckles/c's are rotated back. If rotated forward (rear of pumpkin angled up a bit) the steering arm will rotate down an inch or two (still not enough but a start). And as Jo said, flip the link to the bottom of the arms...there's another inch.

I need a magnetic protractor to set the caster angle which should be around +5 degrees. I played around with a more negative caster angle and it does give me a little bit more clearance on the steering linkage.

OR...... Just not use the high steer. Looks to me like the "stock" steering location will work fine.

You're right, I was just baffled by ride height requirement to run high steer considering other Isuzu builds I've seen. I may have to build new steering links to correct length for the stock mounts (which sucks!), otherwise it shouldn't be a problem.


Thanks for the feedback guys... got me thinking! I'll move the steering linkage down to the stock mount later today and see how it looks. More pics to follow...