RADO's Off Road Rig- Build Thread

[Triathlete]

Custom tube frame

[nfpgasmask]

Just catching up on this thread. Big nads is right! I just could never take something like this on! Props to you for doing it, Rado!

Now, not to be a dick, but... I know you get longer wheel base, blah blah blah, but moving that front wheel forward, this is EXACTLY what I think makes SASes look bad. Again, this is just my opinion, but if I were you, I would keep the wheel centered under the wheel well as much as possible without distorting the look of the VX too much. (You be quiet, Billy!)

I have yet to see a quality Isuzu SAS that doesn't end up looking ill proportioned, awkward and weird. But again, just my opinion! I have high hopes for this build!

Bart

[VXorado]

Just catching up on this thread. Big nads is right! I just could never take something like this on! Props to you for doing it, Rado!

Now, not to be a dick, but... I know you get longer wheel base, blah blah blah, but moving that front wheel forward, this is EXACTLY what I think makes SASes look bad. Again, this is just my opinion, but if I were you, I would keep the wheel centered under the wheel well as much as possible without distorting the look of the VX too much. (You be quiet, Billy!)

I have yet to see a quality Isuzu SAS that doesn't end up looking ill proportioned, awkward and weird. But again, just my opinion! I have high hopes for this build!

Bart

Thanks Bart and I agree about the odd look when the axle is moved up significantly. I need to move the axle forward a bit (like in the pic above) to fit the future 37s.

This pic is for Billy... axle pushed forward 5"! (just for reference)

[VXorado]

Also...

I moved the steering linkage down to the stock mount.



Full compression. Ride height will be +5"

[Triathlete]

Thanks for that pic...looks like a lot of trimming will be needed

[VXorado]

Phase 5 ....in progress

Well, it seems every SAS thread has a downtime for updates... and now I know why. Things have been going well but there's alot of time put into measuring, adjusting, measuring again, fabricating, measuring a 3rd time, re-fabricating, on & on & on. So we're moving forward and I finally have some updated pics to share.

Control Arm Setup
I went with TnT Customs XJ long arm setup. This setup uses a "radius arm" style configuration that eliminates 2 out 4 of control arm frame mounts. The setup is fully adjustable for caster angle & axle position.







Frame Brackets
I purchased a set of control arm frame brackets from Ballistic Fab. The frame bracket needed to be positioned at the trans crossmember, which is dropped about 2" from the frame. I chose to remove part of the crossmember mount to fit my bracket and allow more surface to weld. To make things easier, the stock crossmember can still be used.





Axle under VX



Next up is steering. I wanted to replace my steering box because of gear slop at max adjustment and got lucky finding a nice box the junkyard. No leaks, fairly tight and room for adjustment. After steering... trackbar, brake lines, coilover towers & test drive.

[Otwobme]

looking great, if you need any help let me know, i might be slow with the wrist but at least i would have one good hand to give you.

[Triathlete]

Coming along nicely. I was reading a Zu build on Pirate and they were using an f250 steering box. Said it worked great and had enough power that no hydro assist was needed with large tires.

[VXorado]

looking great, if you need any help let me know, i might be slow with the wrist but at least i would have one good hand to give you.

Thanks, I should be good getting the VX to the test drive. After that,your lift might be a real help for making adjustments.

Coming along nicely. I was reading a Zu build on Pirate and they were using an f250 steering box. Said it worked great and had enough power that no hydro assist was needed with large tires.

I researched quite a bit on steering. Initially, I was going to use a FJ60/FJ80 box because they have a forward facing pitman arm. I believe the splined u-joint on the steering shaft is the same but the gearbox hose connectors are a different size. I found that with my axle location, I could get away with using a rear facing pitman arm and save $500 not using a toyota setup.

I had read the same about the F-250 box but that's even more work than using the toyota box because it would need a new steering shaft. The F-250 is a bigger box but I believe the gearing is the same. I'm not convinced you would get much extra benefit of a bigger box without a larger, higher pressure steering pump.

I figured for now I would keep it simple and cheap by using a stock ZU box. If I have issues with weak steering, I'll look into a new setup &/or hydro assist when I have more time.

[tom4bren]

Check with Buffy on the trick steering setup he put on his race truck.

[VXorado]

Check with Buffy on the trick steering setup he put on his race truck.

Yeah he's got full hydro steer (I believe Sleveritt with Nuke VX does too). Best option for offroad, not great for streets. For daily driving, hydro assist kits exist to keep eveything original in place but more turning power for bigger tires. Awesome but expensive and I blew all my extra spending money on the suspension!!!

Buffy's full hydro


Hydro assist

[44ficus44]

uve created a monster hajaha nice

[ZEUS]

Nice progress! Was the radius arm approach required to get the maximum up-travel vs. a 3-link? Or were there other clearance issues at all? Short wheelbase with a 2-link front suspension tends to unload on hills. I'm curious because it was a compromise I was willing to live with myself until I found more room for a third link on my Blazer build.
Excited to see some flex shots!

[VXorado]

Nice progress! Was the radius arm approach required to get the maximum up-travel vs. a 3-link? Or were there other clearance issues at all? Short wheelbase with a 2-link front suspension tends to unload on hills. I'm curious because it was a compromise I was willing to live with myself until I found more room for a third link on my Blazer build.
Excited to see some flex shots!

Based on several Isuzu builds I researched, the 3 link setup always ended with a taller ride height vs the radius arm. The Isuzu frame is tricky because it seats the engine pretty shallow compared to most other SUVs. For instance, someone had mentioned notching the frame to fit the histeer but when I looked into that option I found the front oil pan sticks down an 1" below the frame.

Additionally, there are two great radius arm builds on the planet and really liked the end result. For the geometries, it seemed to be an easier to tackle when working on a garage floor.

...as for unloading, it has been a concern of mine BUT I have a trick up my sleeve to prevent it.

[ZEUS]

Based on several Isuzu builds I researched, the 3 link setup always ended with a taller ride height vs the radius arm. The Isuzu frame is tricky because it seats the engine pretty shallow compared to most other SUVs. For instance, someone had mentioned notching the frame to fit the histeer but when I looked into that option I found the front oil pan sticks down an 1" below the frame.

Additionally, there are two great radius arm builds on the planet and really liked the end result. For the geometries, it seemed to be an easier to tackle when working on a garage floor.

...as for unloading, it has been a concern of mine BUT I have a trick up my sleeve to prevent it.

Sounds to me like a winch-attached-down-travel-limiter (TM)! What you are describing is exactly what I was running up against on my build also. Lots O Fun! Things get tight really quick...