"Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."
"If You Can't Solve A Problem, It's Because You're Playing By The Rules."
"The Perosn Who Doesn't Make Mistakes Is Unlikely To Make Anything."
-Paul Arden
No I haven't had any problems hitting the cladding but I have scraped the frame which is exposed from the body lift. I have plans to make some kind of bumper/skid plate to help protect the cladding and tire. I'm really worried about smacking the rear tire on a drop off and tweaking the back door.
You've boggled my mind Jack, are you talking about the VX or 4runner?
I have caught my cladding on some bigger ledges and a few of the lower screws have ripped through.
I think if you welded a plate over the existing tank skid that was bent up slightly to fit to just under the lip of the cladding with a piece that extends out under your spare. Maybe bend some 1.5 inch tubing around the tire part extending out to the corners of the skid to reinforce it and form a sort of bumper.
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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Alright, I installed the new basket and LED bar.
Rola Basket: overall seems to be a great deal for the size and strength. The basket fits the roof nicely and can be mounted on the roof bars easily. I decided to mount the rack directly on the roof rails using a variation of Zeus' How-to. The basket includes a fairing and mounting hardware from etrailer with fast shipping included for $185.
http://www.etrailer.com/Roof-Cargo-C...ola/59504.html
30" LED Light Bar: I purchased the light bar from Expedition Outfitters for $325. The quality seems very nice and it's insanely bright with 60 LEDs, 180 watts and 11000 Lumens. Mounting was very easy on the Rola basket because the bar has adjustable base feet. I still need to find a way to lock the light bar to the VX... don't want it wandering off.
http://explorationoutfitters.com/ - They list items on ebay, check there first for the best deal. Mine was $325 including a wiring harness and free shipping.
Again...nicely done. Have you thought of using some sort of security screws to secure the light?
No, but that's a good idea. I'll look into it, I would have to match the existing bolt thread/size for the LED bar.
Thanks Billy.
No matter how secure you make it, short of perhaps welding it on, there is always a way to get it off. The idea I suppose is to stop the casual thief. Kind of like a masterlock. Two box end wrenches will pop a masterlock, but if someone wants what you have that badly, they are going to get it anyway.
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
Simple solution...
Replace the fasteners with stainless cap screws, crank em down firmly, then fill the heads with liquid steel, PC-3, or some other epoxy.
It'll at least slow em' down a bit, not to mention piss'n em off...
And you too, if you ever wanna remove em...
Next we meet, remind me to show you some of my "slow them thiev'n bastards down" invenshuns on my trailer & light bar...
I'm leaning toward just welding the bolts on to the rack and using JB weld on the asjustment bolts. I was having trouble finding the right sized security bolt anyways.
If the badies want to steal it... they'll have to cut it off.
and i'm sure I'll need to remove the light bar right after the JB weld sets.
Best security....
Circle your VX with motion detonated claymores and a large warning sign!