I second that Tom, but your airbag ? is intriguing...
I second that Tom, but your airbag ? is intriguing...
Vixer Fixer
crankshaft sensor - sending rpm signal and TDC#1 to pcm - if no crank signal - no fuel pressure. also pcm fires coils up according crank signal. camshaft for injectors and better correlation etc...
But, with the key on-run pcm should send signal to fuel pump to prime fuel for a second or two.
I installed the "new computer" didn't help.
Fuses good
Ground circuit to the PCM terminal connections good
All relays good.
Checked all wiring connectors
Polished all ground points to body
No Check Engine- light will not even light up--- very strange
No Fuel gauge--- also very strange.
Pressure at the fuel rail.
Injectors do not fire
Will hit with a shot of starting fluid.
Last edited by bcbike : 11/30/2012 at 07:54 PM
Check your wire looms...especially where they pass through bulkheads. Also your relay could still be bad...with the ignition on you should have power at 2 pins. If you have power at 2 pins with the ignition on then its a bad relay. If you only have power at 1 then you need to start looking at wiring and components.
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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One question i have is where does the fuel gauge and check engine light fit into the picture. The fuel gauge does not work and the check engine light will not even light when the key is on. (bulb is good).
I'm still inclined to think it may be the ignition switch. You can easily check each contact point with an ohm meter. If any show an open circuit when swithched on, I believe you will confirm if it is the problem. Tom4bren also brought up a valid possibility of it being the rollover sensor, once again easily confirmed with an ohm meter...Dig into the online shop manual for guidance to both. Best of luck, I know it's gotta be gettin' old by now!
Just throwing this out there. If it would be a bad fuel level sensor (float) telling the gauge and computer it is out of fuel. Would the computer shut the fuel pump off so it does not run dry and burn itself out? Maybe for safety so the pump does not overheat inside a empty tank filled with gas fumes?
Just two questions. (1) What was the last thing that you had done before this problem?? (2) Did you change the fuel cap?? Theres a vacuum and pressure valve in it.
3" suspension lift, shocks: Rancho 9000, tires 33"x11.5", wheels 16"x8", offset= 0, no front sway bar
OK...This morning got deep into the wiring under the dash. Checked all of the connections moved wires around tightened up and cleaned everything I could find and........it started.
Not sure exactly what was loose but she is alive.
It was most definitely a wiring or connector problem I just wish I knew exactly what I did.
Bunches of thanks to everyone who offered support and advice it kept me sane.
CONGRATULATIONS!!! Good news indeed...Now, don't muck-about under the dash anymore!
I would check the wiring in the areas you moved around for any areas where it might have rubbed the wiring causing a short. Possible a grommet worked its way out or just didn't exist.
Everything is functioning dash lights, fuel gauge and the code reader works. My best guess is it was a ground high on the left side kick panel that has about 4 wires going into one terminal. I noticed on the wiring diagram that it looked like the fuel gauge, tach and check engine light all shared a common ground. I back tracked until I found a ground that had multiple wires and polished it up. I went over the harness under the dash and didn't find any bare wires or chaffing. I can't be certain the ground was it but it seems like the likely culprit.
That's a fine bit of detective work there "Holmes"...