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Thread: Rear bump stops -- optional or necessary?

  1. #1
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    Rear bump stops -- optional or necessary?

    Recently, I did a commonly suggested mod to my suspension. I cut the rear suspension bumper stops on my VX. I hated the way it performed/felt over pronounced bumps in the road. It was particularly bad in two or three places traveled in my commute to/from work.

    The worst was a particular hwy lane where the speed limit is 70mph and it's on a curve. With a bump/hump combo, the VX literally wanted to hop sideways a bit. Tracking in it's lane was a bit unnerving. Considering that my stiff-suspension C4 (Corvette) is meant to be as stiff, I had a basis for comparison.

    And, the Corvette handled this path with considerably more grace.

    So, I cut the bumbers...which had minimal clearance above the rear axle. There was only about 1/4"-1/2" between the bumper and it's corresponding axle-plate. Obviously, suspension didn't have to travel far, before that bumper hit.

    Now that half is removed (that bottom loop), the change is significant. The low-speed bumps are as good as any other vehicle. And, that hwy turn now tracks correctly.

    I seriously believe the VX was bottoming, and being "launched" thru the bumper-stop. IOW, that dip/hump was throwing the frame up into the air...thru direct connection via the stop. With 1/2 of it removed, the rear shocks have more travel -- and can do their job. The result is a suspension that works as desired.

    Now, I can't speak to my config -- as compared to the OEM position. IOW, I don't know how much higher it sat when new. OTOH, the rear shocks don't seem lifeless and bouncy. I've also considered the 1" spacer lift -- but don't necessarily need it anymore -- despite having purchased the urethane "donuts". I'll still probably try them when it get's warmer...but I may have some travel limitation with my PS dual exhaust pipe routed between the differential and trailing link. (As it sits, I have zero contact.)

    I still need to post pics/vid of how my dual exhaust turned out, but I'm waiting for a nice day to wash it up and have it look nice.

    In the mean time, I think anyone observing this type of body control issue -- especially in the hwy should consider this mod. I actually believe it could make your VX safer. Of course, a lift, new shocks, or both might accomplish the same thing. This option just costs less. And, is good for people w/o leaky rear shock absorbers.
    2001 Ebony VX and 1989 Custom 383 Corvette

  2. #2
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    VX KAT
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  3. #3
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    Did the very same thing, with the very same results; plus it's nice not pissing blood every fifty miles...

  4. #4
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    Anyone ever look to see what bump stops from other Isuzu's might be identical to the b-stops on a VX, if a person wanted to have an extra set to experiment with?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGanzman View Post
    ... plus it's nice not pissing blood every fifty miles...
    TMI
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    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  6. #6
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    Post

    I seriously believe the VX was bottoming, and being "launched" thru the bumper-stop. IOW, that dip/hump was throwing the frame up into the air...thru direct connection via the stop. With 1/2 of it removed, the rear shocks have more travel -- and can do their job. The result is a suspension that works as desired.

    While your straight line ride may seem to improve your hard cornering role resistance will suffer as these crazy rubber eights are termed spring helpers by Isuzu. Cut them at your own peril. Remember Isuszu was sued in 1996 by Consumer Reports for Trooper roll over saftey issues.

  7. #7
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    ive read all the other threads about this and i dont see what all the hub bub is about - its pretty obvious by looking at the bump stops (or spring helpers) that they are there to help with cornering to keep the rear end stable - if you take them out you will have more travel in the shocks and maybe a more comfortable ride but you lose your stability - im on the fence about cutting mine in half - seeing as i dont drive like a bat out of hades most of the time i think i might enjoy having a little more travel in the shocks

    side note: i think its funny how many people think they need new shocks because they have a stiff ride - that means your shocks are working correctly - the whole point of shocks is to get your wheels back in contact with the ground asap - its when they just keep bouncing that they need replaced

  8. #8
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    Another thing to consider...
    If you are running larger tires there is a chance you will eat up your inner wheel wells especially if you do any off roading and flex out your suspension.
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  9. #9
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    Good point.

  10. #10
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    Post

    side note: i think its funny how many people think they need new shocks because they have a stiff ride - that means your shocks are working correctly - the whole point of shocks is to get your wheels back in contact with the ground asap - its when they just keep bouncing that they need replaced[/QUOTE]

    Along this line, my '99 with 156K on the clock still has the original shocks and they work fine. I know this sounds crazy, but those OEM KYB's were super shocks and were designed to last the life of the vehicle. So think twice when you throw them out and all you plan is highway use.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksambo View Post
    side note: i think its funny how many people think they need new shocks because they have a stiff ride - that means your shocks are working correctly - the whole point of shocks is to get your wheels back in contact with the ground asap - its when they just keep bouncing that they need replaced
    Along this line, my '99 with 156K on the clock still has the original shocks and they work fine. I know this sounds crazy, but those OEM KYB's were super shocks and were designed to last the life of the vehicle. So think twice when you throw them out and all you plan is highway use.
    I have a set of fronts in the classifieds

  12. #12
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    Wrench

    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    Another thing to consider...
    If you are running larger tires there is a chance you will eat up your inner wheel wells especially if you do any off roading and flex out your suspension.
    That's why some of us who get all flexy off road, either add spacers between the frame & the bumps, or install higher profile urethane bumps...or both...

  13. #13
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    Good point.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksambo View Post
    While your straight line ride may seem to improve your hard cornering role resistance will suffer as these crazy rubber eights are termed spring helpers by Isuzu. Cut them at your own peril. Remember Isuszu was sued in 1996 by Consumer Reports for Trooper roll over saftey issues.
    I totally disagree. I just described (in my OP) how much better the VX handles when floating on springs vs rubber frame mounts. My specific case was in a curve/turn. And, BTW....That's why shocks were invented. Relying on bumper stops isn't my idea of great handling.

    If you're having problems with body roll in severe cornering, you need more serious suspension changes than relying on rubber bumper stops. Bigger sway bars, stiffer springs, or whatever.

    I'd add that cutting bumper stops isn't the right move if your running oversize tires. I also qualified that by saying lift/spring/etc...would accomplish the same thing (in my OP). With significantly bigger wheels/tires or off-roading, what I posted here will not apply.

  15. #15
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    I don't think the rear bumpstops serve any function other than to keep the tires from contacting the body.
    95 Trooper with a buncha stuff nobody here cares about...

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