Replacement Axle Assemblies from SurTrack.....

[Gizmo42]

Same procedure as changing boots. Just did both sides on my Rodeo (slightly more difficult then on a VX) and took way longer then normal. Usually I can do boots in 1.5-2 hrs per side in a parking lot.

On a VX you pretty much just pull the brake caliper, pop the snap ring on the end and unbolt the lower ball joint from the control arm, pop the larger inner boot clamp, pop out the retaining clip and thats it.

[Triathlete]

What Dave said
UNLESS you are changing the inner shaft on the long side also...then it's a whole other can of worms!

[VXD959]

What Dave said
UNLESS you are changing the inner shaft on the long side also...then it's a whole other can of worms!

What inner shaft? I'm replacing the two front axles assemblies...I'm willing to try and do it myself as long as the job is as simple as David (Gizmo42) says...Nothing wrong with the existing shafts except that the boots are torned on both sides. I'm planning to keep them as a spare.

I'm not very mechanically inclined and don't have the tools to do this (except jacks and some basic tools). I asked a couple of other shops today and they quoted in the $600. They say they cannot warranty the work without going by the shop manual instructions.

[JoFotoz]

If you are replacing from the green cup outward...
.... you are talking about replacing only PART of both axle assemblies.

You will need to release the boot on the "CUP" on the new axles...
...and pull the assembly apart ( out of the cup).

You can then replace partial axle assemblies from OEM green cup outwards..
.....but you will still need to re-boot the green cup.


The photo of me shows the partial NEW assembly after being released from cup.
The left section slots into green OEM cup, the right section that I'm lubing
goes into hub.

Job took me about 2.5 hours...but thats "Stoop" time..probably could do both
sides in about 3.5 - 4 hours if totally concentrating...not blabbing/cocktailing too!

Most difficult part is re-booting inner cup..its very tight and awkward....
...and you need tool to tension boot band.

Hope this helps

Jo

[KRemo]

I replaced both CV axles Saturday that I purchased from suretrack and they fit like a glove. It's amazing how it drives and feels with new CV's. I would recommend these for everyone. Great product. Now it was not a fun job took 7 hours but well worth the work.

[VXD959]

I replaced both CV axles Saturday that I purchased from suretrack and they fit like a glove. It's amazing how it drives and feels with new CV's. I would recommend these for everyone. Great product. Now it was not a fun job took 7 hours but well worth the work.

Great!!! Any tips or lessons learned from the installation? I'm still debating about doing mine myself or just pay $400 for my mechanic to do it.

[KRemo]

Not really if you are not comfortable working on cars I would recommend paying a mechanic. It's a tough job by yourself. you have to drop the front axles because you need to get into it to disconnect and connect the ends from inside. I had a friend that knows a lot about cars a mechanic for 27 years and he said it's one of the hardest axle replacements yet. If the inner axles and boots are not tore up you can just replace the outer axle they are a perfect fit to the green cups. Almost as bad of a job as the thermostat lol

[JoFotoz]

Just to clarify...

If outer axle shafts/CV's are being replaced simply to fix a CV or Boot issue...

...there is no need to drop front axle.

The Surtrak FULL axles assemblies ( as shipped) can be dismantled such that only the
section from the OEM "green Cup' ( silver cup on Surtrack) outward can be used/replaced.
(as per pic of me wrenching at the "stoop")

This will cure CV and torn boot issues without having to drop full axle assembly.
You will still have to re-fit the two boots on each cup.

Dropping the entire front axle for full replacement is indeed a big job..

....replacing CV's and axles from "cup" outwards is much easier and "driveway do-able"


Jo

[KRemo]

Well said

[tom4bren]

Even if you drop the axle to replace the whole shaft can be a 'driveway job'. It's not that difficult ... just dirty & time consuming.

The only real problems I ran into was disconnecting the ball joints. They can be a real BEEEOTCH! Do NOT use a ball joint fork (pickle fork). Go get good pitman arm puller. The fork will trash your ball joint boots which are hard to find.

The only special tools you'll need are the pitman arm puller (for the ball joints, not the pitman arm ... & that's only needed if you are going to drop the axle), snap ring pliers, and possibly a tensioner for the bands on the boots.

Jo, I didn't use the bands that came with the boots. I just used zip ties & they held up just fine.

The best tip that I can give is to plan ahead. Allow plenty of time & try to get a few cell numbers of people who have done the job in case you have any questions. Print out the instructions for the boot install & maybe the one for the diff drop too. Your copy will be completely trashed from grease & stuff when done so a disposable copy is great to have.

[Marlin]

A puller is not needed at all. I have done my CVs several times, fortunately not in the last 2.5 years since I learned how to drive with a front locker, and went back to OEM CVs. If you use a 3lb sledge, just hit the hole that the taper on the ball joint goes into after loosening all the bolts and the ball joint will pop out. I have done this countless times, learned it from JoeD, Peter and JP at Uwharrie. They laughed at me trying to use a pickle fork, ruining a ball joint... He walked over with a hammer, one good whack, and I mean a good whack, and voila, ball joint separated.
You don't have to disconnect the pitman arm to do the job. You can wiggle the axle assembly down by rotating the steering wheel as needed. It isn't that bad of a job, just time consuming. I did this twice, once for the locker install, and then again to do the diff drop and painting of the axle assembly. Took a weekend.

[tom4bren]

I hear ya. Sometimes those ball joints can be so seized though that constant pressure AND impact is required.

Fair warning though. Put the castle nut back on the threads (upside down) before you start pounding on it though to protect the threads. The shaft on the ball joints isn't the strongest material.

BTW, the pitman arm puller is to be used on the ball joints, not the pitman arm. There's no reason to disconnect the pitman arm for this job.

If the new shafts work with the OEM green cup (outer race) then by all means, re-use the green cup & save yourself much effort.

[VXD959]

Thank you all!!! But...........there is no way I'm going to be tackling this by myself!!!
Wish one of you were closer to my place....I'm one of those guys that try to fix something and manage to make it worse... not to mention the extra parts lying around after I put everything back!!!

So to the mechanic it goes...hopefully he will know what to do!!! I will share some of the information posted here with him...but he always goes by the shop manual!

[tom4bren]

...but he always goes by the shop manual!

You need to find a mechanic who doesn't. It could save you hundreds of dollars if you can find a mechanic who will use the short cuts described in the How2's.

[JoFotoz]

Cool...

So to the mechanic it goes... !

..better safe than sorry, trust me, I know all about extra bits lying around after the job!!

You need to decide if you are going to replace entire axle assemblies...
......or simply from the "Green Cup" outboard.

If its simply a question of bust CV boots.....
...you'll save big $$'s only doing the outers.

However..if you have concerns about the entire axle...do it all now.

Cheers

jo