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Thread: Help w/ replacing Door Handle Pin

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  1. #1
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    A new handle sounds a whole heck of a lot easier.
    You'll end up buying one, after you spooge yours up with a grinder
    It's just a standard Isuzu door handle I believe.
    Likely get a new one for not a whole bunch o money.

  2. #2
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    Yes, I am doing this for a MOD.

    The door handle assembly and the door handle will be wrapped in CF, then coated with clear. I will also have an LED strip just under the handle to light up the door handle area at night. I'm also looking into changing the lock so that the lock has a HALO LIGHT around the keyhole.

    For any of this to happen I have to disassemble and reassemble...

    Tom... that seems like an idea. I'm having a bit of trouble understanding at the moment but I'm going to keep looking at it. THANKS MAN

    AND I'm wondering if I can find something at a door hinge distributor or somethting like that.

    The pin APPEARS to be hollow only because that end of the pin was pressed by a machine. The pin is solid for sure, but at one end (and only at one end), the end that is showing in the pic, has a "lip" that is pressed by a machine press once it's inserted.
    ---------

    Ty

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by tysamigo View Post
    The pin APPEARS to be hollow only because that end of the pin was pressed by a machine. The pin is solid for sure, but at one end (and only at one end),

    OK, gotcha.

    the end that is showing in the pic, has a "lip" that is pressed by a machine press once it's inserted.

    That's the end you'll need to work on. You may have to actually drill that hole deeper though before you tap & cut.


    I'll PM you my cell # in case you want to discuss.
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    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  4. #4
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    Couldn't you just run one of these through and call it a day?


    It doesn't appear that the nut or head will interfere with anything as long as you get the proper length and diameter. HTH. rudy
    For custom VehiCross skidplates and accessories, check out:
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  5. #5
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    I would worry about any threads exposed tearing up the plastic every time the handle is used or binding up.

    I like Toms idea of drilling and tapping the OEM to accept a bolt, only issue i see is that the bolt would have to be very small and could bend or break if it spans any joints. Plus the threads in the plastic.

    What i would do is get a steel rod of the same diameter and cut threads into the outside of each end so you can put a nut on as a stopper. That way there are no threads under the plastic and you have the maximum diameter possible.

    You could probably go even lower tech and just drill a hole at each end and put a cotter pin through to hold it in place..... Or score a grove with a pipe cutter and use a snap ring. There shouldn't be much if any lateral force on the pin, it will all be shear.


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  6. #6
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    Update

    I took it to the owner of a small company that (for the lack of a better word at the moment) "plays with metal" for over 30 years including welding, making huge fancy fences, doors, artwork, etc.

    We found that the Door Handle Pin is identical to one of these nails that he had (16d w/hot dipped coating of something). It's 153 Thousands of an inch and about 4 1/4" long. The nails are the same except they are not available in that length, so he's going to make a couple of pins by welding 2 nails together, painting over the weld to prevent rust, used the flat end of the nail for the pressed end, and the other he will flatten out to hold it in.

    It should work... I'll keep you posted...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by etlsport View Post
    I would worry about any threads exposed tearing up the plastic every time the handle is used or binding up.
    Yeah, this is what everyone has agreed upon

    What i would do is get a steel rod of the same diameter and cut threads into the outside of each end so you can put a nut on as a stopper. That way there are no threads under the plastic and you have the maximum diameter possible.
    This is the next idea, however there were a couple of bumps. The size of steel rod is so small that I would have to do some research. We called a few of the big steel companies from google searching that specialize is "smaller orders" and it's not a common size so it's a special order which would require a large order. Also the steel rods would not come coated. I would have to coat them myself. Also, the amount of space is so small (as you pointed out) that the nut would have to be TINY and effective... This can all be done, but costly and timely... but I will go this route if the first idea doesnt work (welding 2 nails together)...

  8. #8
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    Update

    I purchased 2 Steel Rods from a local steel dist., each are 12' long and are 5/32" Cold Roll. Larry (the metal guy) is going to make 2 sets of pins (one to use now and one as a back-up), however the extra rods are being pre-cut so that we can make more pins in the future.

    My hope is that this will all work perfectly. If it does (and I will follow up as the project is finished) then I can offer to anyone in the group, sets of these pins.

    If you ever decide to remove your door handle and have it painted, sprayed w/Linex, wrapped in CF or whatever the case may be, it is best to dissassemble the handles and if you do this, you will need a new set of pins.

    I will keep you posted...

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