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Thread: 1/10 Scale VX RC-Crawler

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  1. #1
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    Man, good progress. Gotta be careful with those harsh chemicals on that plastic. Have you tried just Mineral Spirits?

    Bart

  2. #2
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    I'm sure I have mineral spirits somewhere but can't find it - you know how my house is! Haha I'm glad I sanded the whole thing anyway because I got rid of some high spots & pointed out some low spots. The windows were the toughest parts to get thru. They had the blue paint & then the black paint on top so there was quite a bit of color on there. I truthfully think sanding did not take much more time than using chemicals would have being that I still would have needed to sand before & after primer anyway.
    Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"

  3. #3
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    Not a whole lot of progress this week - lots of research though!
    With the styrene I acquired I got to measuring, sketching, transferring, cutting, & filing something I find important for the project design.
    I clamped down my Dremel & then clamped down a make-shift cutting table:


    I cut out a few blanks, just in case I come across another VX body from across the pond one day:


    The first pieces didn't come out quite up to my standards so I started again & nailed it:



    Here is a piece taped up against my on-screen template:


    Much better, right?! I am not going to glue them on just yet. I am contemplating cutting this body into three pieces to adjust the wheelbase by 10 mm. The wheelbase is spot on 1:10 scale as it stands but the overall length is 20 mm too short (based on schematics I have been viewing). A 10 mm stretch would better even out proportions in the rear side windows, front fenders/hood, wheelbase, & overall length. Besides, +10 mm would also bring me to the wheelbase of the chassis kit I have been thinking of using for the future copies... If I do end up cutting it apart I will also dove-tail the rear end a little bit because that fat butt is killing me. As Joe Isuzu said, "Go Farther." It might be time to order that IFS chassis to help me make these decisions before I go... "Too far."

  4. #4
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    Back window looks good. It's a shame these VX toys are difficult to find now. If you had like 4 or 5 of them, you could really do some engineering to make a perfect scale VX.

    Bart

  5. #5
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    It continues...
    I ordered a Tamiya CC01 chassis in the "Landfreeder" variety as it is the cheapest option & includes the tires in a 31" size. If I were to recreate some RC VX's for others, this is the chassis I would build upon. It took me about 5 hours to assemble & comes with a motor & esc. It just so happens that the included rims are very similar to what I put on Zeus too!



    Assembled chassis:


    I already knew the stock CC01 wheelbase was 10mm too long for the VX body & here is how much of a difference that is.


    I did not take any pics as I was working on it but I picked up (2) 2.25" long all-thread & screwed on some rod ends to make the shorter lower links. I also took an upper V link from an HPI Wheely King, cut it down, drilled some holes, & screwed in two rod ends there too. I need to make shock brackets on the axle side & cut the driveshaft down. I also figured out a way to lift the chassis-side mount of the lower links for better looks & ground clearance. At least now I have an idea of what is involved to merge VX shell to this chassis if I end up making more of them.


    So Zeus Mini is coming along! Check out the similarity of the wheels & the tire size. Close enough for me!


  6. #6
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    So then... back to the solid axle chassis! The mock up chassis & setup has served it's purpose but is on its way out for a true frame rail-type chassis. I ordered the frame kit for an Axial SCX-10 crawler to start from. I also ordered a zinc-coated hex-head hardware kit for that extra touch of realism. The problem is the VX wheelbase is so short compared to everything else out there! Jamming everything into a 9.2" wheelbase versus the 11.5-12.5" norm is a bit tight to work with! Here we go:


    See, way too long:


    I got to hacking 2" out of the middle & made a transformer:


    That cut made the frame fit just right within the underside of the shell & it put the shock mounts in a usable location for this wheelbase.


    The next obstacle is driveshaft lengths & angles... I need the most narrow transfer case or transmission I can find in order to have usable driveshafts. So far it seems to be the HPI Wheely King transmission which I just happen to have an extra of! It will not allow me to create an interior though so if I use it, it will be temporary. The new axles I ordered are on backorder with no eta but they cost $300 for the pair! Ouch. The planetary trans I think I want to use is also on backorder, as is the t-case I thought I could use. The t-case may be too thick tho. Fun fun... OH YEAH! ...A driver is also on the way...

  7. #7
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    It's coming along good. Can't wait to see it in action! I still haven't ordered my electronics. No moneh.

    Bart

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    Thumbs up

    Wow! Sweeeeeeeeet!
    Peace.
    Tom
    "Through Great Sacrifice..... Great Rewards Will Be Achieved"

  9. #9
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    How much longer until parts come into stock? Haha they never give answers.

  10. #10
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    Whelp, I am having to get creative...
    Here is my RC4WD R3 transmission with an old 540 motor:


    The problem is it is too tall in stock form to clear the hood unless I move the body higher than what would look scale/good.
    So... I started a search for an internal gear to replace my standard spur gear...
    I found some stuff in Australia for $200+ but that was about it until I searched for "48 planetary gear" on eBay... I found this:

    Inside the rear wheel is a gyro that looks something like this:

    I wondered if just maybe the planetary gear for that system would work for me... then I found it in metal on eBay for $15 shipped.
    It was 48 tooth versus my 64 tooth spur but I could not tell how big it really was. Nor could I tell what the gear pitch was.
    So I gambled $15 on it, hoping for a 2" outer diameter & 48 pitch to match my current spur/pinon combo.

    BEHOLD!

    2" outside diameter, 48 pitch, 48 tooth! Even the hole diameter was something I could work with.

    Here is the slipper that needs to be grafter to the internal gear:


    So I got to work. I had to remove the shoulder around the center bore & then sand it all flat & then drill out the center with a 3/8" drill bit.
    The larger opening is not quite circular; it looks as if a one-way bearing is supposed to go in there but most of that material was removed so it's not a problem.
    I then drilled the (3) 9/64" holes for the screws:


    I did some test fitting:


    You can see the one problem at the lower right of the above image...
    When I had it clamped in my vise multiple times I must have missed the disc portion & clamped right onto the ring only... it looks to have cracked!
    I assumed it was hardened steel like what I am used to seeing, but as I looked closer, I think it is just a cut above pot metal. A gyro would not require hardened steel.
    I have to order another gear since I learned on this one. I'm nervous because this will TOTALLY work if the gear can handle the torque of the motor.

    More low-profile (Before & after):


    It dropped the motor about 3/8" which is all I needed. Remember tho that is actually 3-3/4" in 1:1 scale!
    I just have my doubts the gear teeth will hold up...

  11. #11
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    Wow man, you're really going balls out!! I don't know how you make all this work!

    Bart

  12. #12
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    Easy, I'm a lucky genius! Haha! I really don't know what I am going to do if those teeth don't hold up... the whole package depends on this setup. Eek!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    Easy, I'm a lucky genius! Haha! I really don't know what I am going to do if those teeth don't hold up... the whole package depends on this setup. Eek!
    Yeah man, you are. I however, am totally lost with this stuff. I really wanted to have my Gelande done but with all of my recent developments, I just don't see it happening for a while. I have to many financial obligations that need tending to!

    Bart

  14. #14
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    Justin, seeing your motor assembly on the LEGO's reminded me of the fact that I have always wanted to build a VX out of LEGO's. I'll have to get on that.

    The R/C is looking great. Do you think it will be done in time to reveal it in Moab?
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
    -Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSHardeman View Post
    Justin, seeing your motor assembly on the LEGO's reminded me of the fact that I have always wanted to build a VX out of LEGO's. I'll have to get on that.

    The R/C is looking great. Do you think it will be done in time to reveal it in Moab?
    Thx, Mark! Like I always tell Bart, "'Done' is such a strong word." It will not be done but it may be operational in time for the 'Zoo! Maybe. I am waiting on the motor which is on back order. The shocks are on back order too. I ordered a new radio & receiver (with a new rc monster truck haha) & I am hopeful that will be here by the end of the month. I still need to pick out a servo , speed control, & battery. The axles have arrived & they are stellar! I need to fab up & braze the cross members & shock hoops & of course mounts for everything. My maybe is a bit large.

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