CV Boot Replacement - Problems removing control arm bolts

[RedBlur]

Hi all -

So after almost 3 years sitting in my garage (I took a job that had me traveling 100% and living no where near my house/cars), I am finally starting to get my VX back in driving shape. First up is replacing the CV Boots.

I know there have been hundreds of threads and some great how-tos on replacing them, but I haven't found the solution to this issue anywhere so I thought I would see if anyone could help.

Anyway, I'm following the method of removing the 4 17mm control arm bolts. These were pretty badly rusted on, but using some PB blaster, a breaker bar and a lot of cursing, I was able to break them all free. The problem is that the entire bolt is rotating, not just the nut.

On the two bolts toward the front of the VX, I was able to just use another ratchet and some more cursing to break the nut free. On the two toward the rear there is an additional metal "sheath" over the lower control arm with a cutout for the bolt heads that allows them to be recessed about 1/8".

I'm having problems embedding the picture, so here is a link

Because of this, I can't grip on to the bolt head with a box wrench or socket. It looks like the intent might have been for the bolt head to be prevented from rotating by the metal, but that has not happened and it rotates freely in place.

I wasn't able to find anyone that encountered/solved this problem. Does anyone have any recommendations? I am seriously considering dremeling out enough room to fit a socket into the recessed area, but I'm guessing that will be easier said than done.

If you have any thoughts, I would greatly appreciate them, thank you!

[Mile High VX]

Snap-on use to make a set of "thin wall" sockets that might work to get them into the recess but can't tell for sure from the picture.

[RedBlur]

Snap-on use to make a set of "thin wall" sockets that might work to get them into the recess but can't tell for sure from the picture.

Thanks! I just googled for different types of sockets and it looks like they make a low profile type too. I don't think they are the "thin wall" version you are referring to, but they don't have much of a lead-in bevel, so maybe that will be able to grab on the the limited bolt height. Looks like I get to get some new tools...

Thanks again!

[VXorado]

I use an impact wrench on the lower side of the control arm and just a regular 6 point wrench on the top. The wrench always grips the bolt head just enough to keep it from spinning. The impact wrench makes the job much, much easier.

[RedBlur]

Interesting... I tried my impact but they were far to tight on there to budge at all. Once I used the breaker bar I did finish it off with the impact though... you are right, it is a ton easier.

I wonder if my issue is all the oxidation that is built up on the arm is preventing me from getting a good grip with the socket. I am going to head to Harbor Freight tomorrow to see if they have a knock-off of the Snap-on low profile socket that I saw. If not I'll get a cheap socket and just grind off the bevel and see if that works for me.

[VX KAT]

Can see narrow clearance here.
This is a Driver's side, but I
have a good Passenger side if you need it, just cover shipping.

[Triathlete]

I have always been able to use a regular wrench on mine...have done it several times and never needed any special tools.

[tom4bren]

Blur,

I had similar issues but was able to grab it well enough with a box or open end. Luckily I had a variety on hand so was able to find that magic wrench.

BTW, I goobered up the threads on a couple of the bolts on my first go-round. IIRC, the replacements had taller heads so they went in the problem holes during re-install.

Send me a PM if you want my cell for real time Q&A whilst you're working on it.

Tom

[LittleBeast]

I have not had this problem on these particular bolts, but you have already had some good advice from other members that I have tried and worked on other various stuck/stripped bolts and nuts, so I am sure you are on the right path. One thing that has worked occasionally is finding a standard (inches) socket that is just a little bit too small for the bolt head and taking a 5lb hammer and tapping it on the head (and worrying about removal later. Normally I have had to purchase replacement bolts after, and sometimes had to trach the socket, but it gets the job done :-)

[evillecutter]

i just changed all 4 cv boots myself - first off its much easier if you have a helper to hold stuff but i did one side all by my lonesome - i dont remember my bolt heads being that imbedded into the a arm - i just put a wrench on top and an impact gun on the bottom and it was like butter - im more worried about the bolt rusting through the a arm than your cv boot...

[Buffy]

I've run int this many times. I believe the square opening is supposed to act like a capture nut to prevent the head of the bolt from turning. On rusty and/or old original ball joint cases the nut is held on so thigh that it spins in the opening. I have been successful with a box end wrench but in some extreme cases I've had to result to using a torch to heat up the nut and jam a screw driver to hold the bolt head in place. If that doesn't work use the torch to cut the nuts off. Works every time!

[evillecutter]

use the torch to cut the nuts off. Works every time!

ouch!

[RedBlur]

Sorry I missed all the replies to this... I was originally subscribed to the thread and got e-mail notifications, but apparently my e-mail started putting them in my spam folder.

Anyway, I just wrote a follow up of sorts about what I dealt with to find the correct replacement bolts and happened to took a look at this thread again.

To anyone wondering, I used a Pittsburgh Pro bolt extractor set (P/N 67894) from good old Harbor Freight to get the stuck bolts freed. I needed to cut the outer CV boot to get the socket in there, but I was planning on replacing it anyway. In normal cases a crescent wrench probably would have worked, but these were stuck on pretty tight so I needed the leverage.

VX Kat, a (very) late thanks for the offer on the control arm, but I'm good now. My task for this spring will be to control my underbody rust, so hopefully my control arms will look like that in the end.