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  1. #1
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    Crank case full of coolant

    Took my Vehicross on a long holiday drive last week, started losing coolant noticably, but I couldn't find any leak. I assumed it was a radiator issue so I topped it off and resolved to pressure test when I got home. Unfortunately at our last stop the car would not turn over in the morning. I cranked it and the engine turned about 20 degrees but no further. Then a seal blew out at the bottom of the crankcase and dumped all the coolant on the parking lot.

    Looks like a coolant leak into the crank case that was slowly getting worse, then suddenly blew and flooded the engine overnight. Didn't lose any oil, just coolant. That explains some intermittent cat warning light and rough start issues I had earlier last week. I assume the only solution is engine rebuild? If so I might take the opportunity to upgrade my 3.2L JDM engine to the 3.5L you guys have (20% more torque); I can see a 3.5L 2nd gen Trooper for sale near me with only 60K on the clock (my VehiCROSS has 90k).

  2. #2
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    Most likely it's one of the headgaskets, you need to do a compression test to verify. Full rebuilt might not be needed, depending on how long you had coolant mixed with oil.

  3. #3
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    Coolant in the oil will definitely take out your cam bearings not to mention just about every other bearing in the block, it's time for a rebuild. As vp stated, a headgasket is the most likely source of your troubles, if it's leaking between a coolant passage and an oil return passage a compression test will not reveal that. If it were a leak between a coolant passage and an oil supply passage you would have oil in your coolant as the oil pressure is much higher then the coolant pressure (roughly 60 pounds versus 12 pounds pressure). Coolant leaking into the cylinders produces thick white smoke. The other possibility is a cracked block. If it is the block, that motor is toast. You may want to secure that replacement engine. Best of luck, sorry about your woes...
    Last edited by Scott Larson : 01/06/2014 at 08:29 AM
    Vixer Fixer

  4. #4
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    I guess it depends on how long you drove it with water in the crank case. I have seen people getting away with it, as long as they caught it quickly.
    96 Eclipse Spyder GSX (already turbo, AWD swap)
    93 Eagle Summit AWD (4G63 turbo swaps)

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the advice Scott, you know a lot more about these engines than me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Leon R View Post
    I guess it depends on how long you drove it with water in the crank case. I have seen people getting away with it, as long as they caught it quickly.
    Hard to say how much water was getting in before it flooded overnight. Given the likelihood of bearing damage and the risk of a cracked block I think swapping in a rebuilt engine is the way to go (3.5L if possible). Looking at donor cars (Troopers) now; will also give me a spare transmission just in case.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leon R View Post
    I guess it depends on how long you drove it with water in the crank case. I have seen people getting away with it, as long as they caught it quickly.
    If it were just water, you are absolutely correct as water does not have the same effect as antifreeze when mixed with oil. When mixed with oil, water will cause sludge to form degrading the lubrication properties of the oil but in the short-term, not catastrophically. The problem with antifreeze (ethylene glycol) is that when it mixes with oil, it increases the viscosity and glycolic acid is formed, the resulting imulsion becomes abrasive and corrosive attacking the softer bearing surfaces first (the cam bearings) along with the mains and the rod bearings, the cylinder walls will also become scuffed. This damage occurs very quickly once the oil has been contaminated. From what Starglider had posted, the contamination was not discovered until the crankcase was so full that the reduced case volume caused hydraulic-lock and blew the main seals when he attempted to restart it.

  7. #7
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    i dont know if i would consider the 3.2 to 3.5 an upgrade unless you can make sure it doesnt eat oil

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Starglider View Post
    ... I assume the only solution is engine rebuild? If so I might take the opportunity to upgrade my 3.2L JDM engine to the 3.5L you guys have (20% more torque)
    I'd probably view that one as a "while you're in there" situation. If the engine was going to have to be torn down far enough to replace the head gaskets, it wouldn't take all that much longer to check the various engine bearings and replace as necessary, especially since you'd most likely want to check for bent connecting rods anyway given the way you said the engine only turned over so far when you last tried to start it.

    All in all though, an engine swap would probably be simplest though, so good luck if that's what you decide.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y33TREKker View Post
    I'd probably view that one as a "while you're in there" situation. If the engine was going to have to be torn down far enough to replace the head gaskets, it wouldn't take all that much longer to check the various engine bearings and replace as necessary, especially since you'd most likely want to check for bent connecting rods anyway given the way you said the engine only turned over so far when you last tried to start it.

    All in all though, an engine swap would probably be simplest though, so good luck if that's what you decide.
    Bent connecting rods would only occur if the hydraulic-lock was caused by flooded cylinders, not a flooded crankcase as indicated by blown main seals. The problem you'll encounter here is the possibility of stretched rod cap bolts or stretched rods, either of which will be catastrophic but highly unlikely as the main seals will act as a safety valve, so to speak. As far as teardown is concerned, replacing head gaskets only involves removing the heads. To inspect main or rod bearings, let alone to check for bent rods, requires a complete teardown necessitating engine removal. Blown main seals already makes for some extensive teardown. Engine replacement is the course I would take at this point, but that's just my opinion...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Larson View Post
    Bent connecting rods would only occur if the hydraulic-lock was caused by flooded cylinders, not a flooded crankcase as indicated by blown main seals. ..
    All it would take is one flooded cylinder, and with a blown head gasket, seems very possible.

  11. #11
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    So your hypothesis is not only a blown head gasket in the critical area of the coolant system/combustion chamber interface, but also a breach between the coolant system/crankcase interface, thereby flooding the block; seems highly unlikely...
    Last edited by Scott Larson : 01/08/2014 at 12:13 AM Reason: 'Cuz I need to behave...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Larson View Post
    So your hypothesis is not only a blown head gasket in the critical area of the coolant system/combustion chamber interface, but also a breach between the coolant system/crankcase interface, thereby flooding the block; seems highly unlikely...
    I was referring to a scenario of ONE possibly flooded CYLINDER resulting in ONE bent connecting rod when I said "all it takes is one". You're the only person here suggesting an entirely flooded block, which I agree, seems highly unlikely...

    Good luck with the project of getting the VX back on the road Starglider.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y33TREKker View Post
    I was referring to a scenario of ONE possibly flooded CYLINDER resulting in ONE bent connecting rod when I said "all it takes is one". You're the only person here suggesting an entirely flooded block, which I agree, seems highly unlikely...

    Good luck with the project of getting the VX back on the road Starglider.
    Trek you duffus, Starglider already said the block was flooded. That's why it popped the main seals when he attempted to restart it, it caused hydraulic lock in the case rather then in the cylinders. You really should learn to read the entire thread before you fire up your drug-addled brain and engage your typing fingers...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Larson View Post
    Trek you duffus, Starglider already said the block was flooded. That's why it popped the main seals when he attempted to restart it, it caused hydraulic lock in the case rather then in the cylinders. You really should learn to read the entire thread before you fire up your drug-addled brain and engage your typing fingers...
    Actually, what Starglider said was that the CRANKCASE was flooded.

    What I was suggesting is that ONE flooded cylinder might have been in the area where the suspected head gasket had blown...since all is takes is ONE such cylinder to create hydraulic lock in an engine...and ONE such coolant path/leak to flood a crankcase.

    You should really learn to take your time and know what you're actually talking about before you get into such an apparent hurry to make your unfounded personal accusations and point out how you think I'm wrong about the mechanical issues I'm trying to help other members with...

    ...because it makes you look like a yappy, ankle-biting dufus who is just trying too hard to perpetuate your obvious petty and on-going grudge against me by following me around to whatever thread I comment in after you've realized that I was ignoring you in the PREVIOUS thread where you were behaving like a yappy, ankle-biting dufus......

    So try to remember this time, you suggesting I'm a drug-addled troll just to feel better about yourself doesn't make your suggestion a reality.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y33TREKker View Post
    Actually, what Starglider said was that the CRANKCASE was flooded.

    What I was suggesting is that ONE flooded cylinder might have been in the area where the suspected head gasket had blown...since all is takes is ONE such cylinder to create hydraulic lock in an engine...and ONE such coolant path/leak to flood a crankcase.

    You should really learn to take your time and know what you're actually talking about before you get into such an apparent hurry to make your unfounded personal accusations and point out how you think I'm wrong about the mechanical issues I'm trying to help other members with...

    ...because it makes you look like a yappy, ankle-biting dufus who is just trying too hard to perpetuate your obvious petty and on-going grudge against me by following me around to whatever thread I comment in after you've realized that I was ignoring you in the PREVIOUS thread where you were behaving like a yappy, ankle-biting dufus......

    So try to remember this time, you suggesting I'm a drug-addled troll just to feel better about yourself doesn't make your suggestion a reality.
    Trekkie, Trekkie, Trekkie, you do realise that the block and the case/crankcase are the same thing, do you not? Also, I could have sworn that you stated that only I was suggesting that an entirely flooded block was to blame for Stargliders dilemma when he stated from the start that that was what had occured! You've already admitted that the chances of both a flooded cylinder and a flooded block are highly unlikely, yet you defend your hypothesis! As to whether or not I have a clue when it comes to engines and automotive mechanics, lets just say that I have a few years of training and practical experience under my 57 year old belt, shall we? And about that "yappy, ankle-biting" thing, if I recall correctly (and anyone please correct me if I'm wrong here) you have become the king of yappy, ankle-biters on this forum. There is nothing said or done that you won't snip at, heck, you will actually chase a member from thread to thread just to get your lame-azz point across! I just don't understand Trekkie why you refuse to stay with your prescribed meds rather then the ones you continue to purchase illegally on the streets...yer makin' it hard to root for ya bro!

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