Originally Posted by
Lfen
No the Tensioner will not automatically align anything up when it is popped, all it does is take slack out of the belt. You MUST have everything lined up BEFORE you pull the pin...
Originally Posted by
TexasProton
So after another 100K when it is time to change the belt again, when the Cams spring out of position after I remove the old belt, I need to move them back individually to line up their timing marks with the timing marks on the heads before I install the new belt...Is that what you are saying Lfen? I know, this question does not apply to my current situation...I'm thinking about the next time!!
I would have to both agree and disagree with these statements. If you line everything up correctly BEFORE you pull the old belt the new belt, once lined up correctly, will pull the cams back into position (which I think is what Lfen said above). Let me explain:
If you follow Bart's write up and line the notches (or green marks, I can't remember which right now) on the cam pulley's up with the marks on the head, and the notch on the crank gear with the mark on the block your timing is set at that point. When you pull the old belt the cams will spring out of alignment, as they should, and everything is still right with the world as long as you don't touch anything. Don't turn the cam pulley's and definitely don't turn the crank.
When you install your new belt you MUST line up the white lines on the belt with the notches in the cam pulley's. This will, eventually, put the cams at the correct position once everything is done. With the white lines on the cam notches (and clamped in place so they don't move) the correct number of belt teeth are between the two cams. Now, when you line up the dotted line (or double white line) on the new belt with the notch in the crank gear (and clamp it in place so it doesn't move) there are the correct number of belt teeth between the cams and the crank. At this point there will be some slack in the belt, but it will probably be pretty tight between the driver side cam and the crank because you have lined everything up. You may even have to rotate the driver side cam back towards the head mark (white line, pulley notch and head mark all lined up) because the slack is taken out of the passenger side of the timing belt at the tensioner pulley. There may be a little slack in the belt between the two cam pulleys, but you may have had to rotate the passenger side cam pulley back to it's head mark (depending on which way the cam sprang when you took the old belt off). Now that everything is lined up and clamped down when you install the tensioner pulley and pull the pin on the tensioner it should snap the cams back into position (if they weren't there already).
One big caveat on all of this: if your timing was not set right before you took the old belt off, the tensioner will not magically re-time the engine for you when you pull the pin. It will only re-align everything if it was lined up correctly in the first place (whoa....deep!! ).
If you have any reason to suspect that your timing was FUBAR before you pulled the old belt then I would start with the "getting your timing back" write up that someone posted.
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