Timing Belt Change Question

[TexasProton]

Thanks a lot for the tip PK. I can definitely try it, and if I still can't line up the marks, then reestablishing timing will be the way to go (I am thinking that might be the most safe thing to do...reestablish timing)

So if we go this route...Here is what I think you guys are saying:


1- Turn the crankshaft sprocket until the timing mark matches the timing mark on the engine at the 3 O'clock position ( I am matching the line marked with the green dot on the sprocket)
2- Turn the Right hand side cam clockwise until it springs to the 12 O'clock position on its own
3- Turn the left hand side (driver side) cam until the cam pulley springs out to the 9 O'clock position, then turn it 90 degrees more to line up the timing mark with that one on the engine
4- Install the new timing belt by lining up all three marks (line up the dotted line with the notch on the crankshaft sprocket at the 9 O'clock position

Does that sound right? am I missing anything?

[jasonm621]

When you turn the drivers side crankshaft the additional 90 degrees it wont stay there it will just want to spring back to the reference mark. Binder clip the belt on the drivers side cam pulley first with the timing mark on the belt matching the green line on the pulley. This is where another person helps a ton: Have the other person turn the camshaft the 90 degrees to the timing mark and HOLD it there until all 3 pulleys have their belt on! Wrap the belt on the crank shaft pulley (As shown in the picture NOT THE MANUAL, the timing mark on the belt should line up on the notch at the 9 o'clock position, not the tick at the 3 o' clock) Binder clip the belt to the pulley as shown. Finally wrap the timing belt around the tensioner pulley and on the passenger side crankshaft (again timing line on the belt should line up with the green line on the pulley. Your friend can now let go. VERIFY 100% that ALL Timing marks on the belt are lined on the according mark on each pulley. Once verified say a quick prayer, pull the tensioner pin and start buttoning things up! Of course remove the binder clips first!
If you're confident you did the job right fill the radiator and reservoir with coolant, if not hold off until you know your engine is running. Re-draining the coolant is gonna be pain on top of redoing the timing belt AGAIN. Once buttoned up repeat prayer and turn the key. You'll know immediately if you did the job correctly. If the engine is running swimmingly and no CEL, fill up the radiator and reservoir to the max (if you hadnt already) and drive it around the block to give that belt its first stretch.
Congrats! you're back on the road again!

[TexasProton]

Thank you so much Jason, now I feel very confident I can get the job done...Beer & BBQ on me next time you good folks are passing through Austin, TX...I really appreciate it.
This Poor VX has gone through some very bad luck lately! About two months ago I was driving home when a deer just beamed down to the only spot where I would have no other option but to hit him. The darn thing hit back and caused more damage to the front of the VX than the insurance company cared to pay for. I ended up buying a VX with a blown engine jus so I could use the few pieces I needed to get her back on the road again. I got her back from the body shop two weekends ago. I was hoping I would have her running again by this past weekend, until I ran into the timing issue.
If all goes will, she should be back on the road by the end of this weekend. I will resume putting her back together this weekend and I will report back with a final update

I just can't say thank you enough for all the tips I received from all of you.

[jasonm621]

Thank you so much Jason, now I feel very confident I can get the job done...Beer & BBQ on me next time you good folks are passing through Austin, TX...I really appreciate it.
This Poor VX has gone through some very bad luck lately! About two months ago I was driving home when a deer just beamed down to the only spot where I would have no other option but to hit him. The darn thing hit back and caused more damage to the front of the VX than the insurance company cared to pay for. I ended up buying a VX with a blown engine jus so I could use the few pieces I needed to get her back on the road again. I got her back from the body shop two weekends ago. I was hoping I would have her running again by this past weekend, until I ran into the timing issue.
If all goes will, she should be back on the road by the end of this weekend. I will resume putting her back together this weekend and I will report back with a final update


I just can't say thank you enough for all the tips I received from all of you.

I'll certainly take you up on BBQ and a beer! Same goes if your in the denver area! Making pals! Thats what the forum is for! Sorry to hear about the dear incident. I have had SEVERAL close calls on the roads of CO & KS! unfortunately every time ive been hunting not a deer, elk or pronghorn in sight!
So I thought I had better pictures where the camshafts spring to. Enjoy these pics. Looks like the timing mark on both pulleys point straight up when the belt is off... Hope this helps somewhat:

[PK]

Thanks a lot for the tip PK. I can definitely try it, and if I still can't line up the marks, then reestablishing timing will be the way to go (I am thinking that might be the most safe thing to do...reestablish timing)

So if we go this route...Here is what I think you guys are saying:


1- Turn the crankshaft sprocket until the timing mark matches the timing mark on the engine at the 3 O'clock position ( I am matching the line marked with the green dot on the sprocket)
2- Turn the Right hand side cam clockwise until it springs to the 12 O'clock position on its own
3- Turn the left hand side (driver side) cam until the cam pulley springs out to the 9 O'clock position, then turn it 90 degrees more to line up the timing mark with that one on the engine
4- Install the new timing belt by lining up all three marks (line up the dotted line with the notch on the crankshaft sprocket at the 9 O'clock position

Does that sound right? am I missing anything?

You need to count the teeth you move the crank pully, and then move the other pullies the same number of teeth, otherwise it will be out.

You still need someone on here to provide the belt tooth count between the crankshaft timing mark - left cam timing mark - right cam timing mark.
If you don't have the tooth count there is no way to allow for the number of teeth taken up by the tensioner deflection. It is not a straight line from the crank pulley to the left cam pulley.

PK

[Lfen]

Yes TexasProton, you have it! Just remember though that the 12 O'clock position you are referring to is in reference to the head itself (the actual marks on the heads). So if you are standing in front of the engine looking at the marks, the passenger side would be at 10' O clock and drivers at 2. It's all the same thing as long as you understand that 12 O' clock is in reference to the timing marks on the heads as if sitting on a bench horizontal, but on the engine installed it is 10 and 2.

[MSHardeman]

I still have the original Isuzu timing belt that I removed when I replace mine. I haven't looked at it in a while, but I seem to remember that the white lines were still visible on it if you need me to count teeth between marks.

[TexasProton]

Thanks for the info yall, I really appreciate it. Now this teeth count is a new twist!! If I have all three pulleys lined up correctly, and the marks on the belt right where they need to be, wouldn't that be enough? If not, then I would really appreciate someone forwarding that info to me. My old belt is useless since I did not count the teeth before I took it off, and off course the pulleys were not lined up either!

[MSHardeman]

When I did my timing belt the pulley's and the crank shaft gear were all lined up correctly before I took the old belt off. The marks on the belt did not line up with the marks on either the pulley's/gear or the heads/block. I'm sure that if I had turned the motor over enough by hand, then eventually everything would have lined up, but following Bart's (nfpgasmask) instructions I made sure that all of the notches on the pulley's lined up with the marks on the heads, and the notch on the crank gear lined up with the mark on the block. When I took the old belt off, the cams snapped out of alignment as expected. The marks on the new belt are to make sure that everything is lined up correctly when you put it all back together. If you align the marks on the belt with the notches in the cam pulley's and the marks on the heads, and the mark on the belt with the mark on the crank gear and the block, then when you pull the pin on the belt tensioner everything should be timed correctly and the engine should fire right up once everything is put back together.

I wasn't sure if you had a new belt with the marks on it already. If you do then you should be fine, but if you don't, counting the teeth between the marks would allow you to mark up your new belt for easier installation.

[TexasProton]

Yes, the new belt has two single lines (for the cam pulleys) and a double line for the crankshaft pulley, not a dotted line (It is a Goodyear timing belt kit I bought from RockAuto.com). I will follow all the instructions on this post and hope for the best. Hopefully some of you guys will be around on Saturday, just in case I get stuck...Yall's tips and advice have been priceless! I am sure one day, some other poor soul is going to find himself/herself in the same spot where I am now...I know this post will help them too!

Thank you

[TexasProton]

When I took the old belt off, the cams snapped out of alignment as expected. The marks on the new belt are to make sure that everything is lined up correctly when you put it all back together.

MSHardeman, I have a question on the quote above: So when you removed the old belt, the cam pulleys snapped out of alignment...As expected. The question is: did you have to line them up again when you installed the new belt, or did the tensioner compensate for the snapping action when you pulled the tensioner's pin?

[sonyshox23]

X

[MSHardeman]

If your timing isn't off to begin with, when you line up the lines on the new belt with the notches in the cams (and clamp them in place) and then line up the double line with the notch on the cam gear (and clamp it in place) everything SHOULD snap into place when you pull the pin on the tensioner.

I think I pushed on the belt near the tensioner to see if everything would line up before pulling the pin just to make sure it was all lined up right.

I think you mentioned downloading Barts write up, but if you haven't I would strongly suggest getting it and reading through it a few times to understand everything. I used Bart's write up exclusively, and read through it MANY times before I ever turned a wrench. I tend to be a visual person so the pretty pictures that Bart included were perfect to help me understand what was going on. I don't consider myself to be particularly mechanically inclined, but I can follow instructions (fairly well) so the write up was like a "Timing Belt Replacement For Dummies" for me.

Hope some of that helps. I'm happy to answer any other questions that you have, or if you want to talk it through I can pm you my phone number.

[Lfen]

No the Tensioner will not automatically align anything up when it is popped, all it does is take slack out of the belt. You MUST have everything lined up BEFORE you pull the pin...

[TexasProton]

So after another 100K when it is time to change the belt again, when the Cams spring out of position after I remove the old belt, I need to move them back individually to line up their timing marks with the timing marks on the heads before I install the new belt...Is that what you are saying Lfen? I know, this question does not apply to my current situation...I'm thinking about the next time!!

Thank you