Engine Revs High and Cuts Out

[PhillieG]

Hello Everyone! My first post!
So I have been dealing with this problem for the past couple of weeks and I did a search on the forum and what I found was that it might be my ignition coil packs and spark plugs. So I ordered new coil packs and changed those out along with the spark plugs, but to no avail.
Symptoms: When I start the engine, the RPMs go straight up to 3,000 and then after about 10 secs they drop to 2,000 then 1,000 then it sputters and shuts off. At that time, the engine light turns on and the battery light turns on. If I try and put it in gear, the engine remains at a high RPM and it tries to move forward on its own. So I can not drive it anywhere to check out the engine code. However, the guy down the street told me that the engine code says misfire and that is all the information he gave me. He wanted to do the work for me and charge me some money, but I wanted to try to fix it myself - so he got mad and old me to go away lol. I say that because I will not be able to use his engine code machine anymore.
Any suggestions? Thank you in advance for any help that you all provide!

[eternal21]

I'd try and diagnosis it first to see what's what. If you have an Android phone, you can download the app "Torque" and, using a BT adapter that you can pick up off Amazon (they're around $25-$35), you can retrieve the diagnostic code(s) pertinent to your issue.

[PhillieG]

Ok, I will probably go pick up a Blue Tooth Adapter from Best Buy tonight. It might sound silly, but where do I put the adapter once I get it? I mean what location in the truck? I am very new to this...

[eternal21]

Ok, I will probably go pick up a Blue Tooth Adapter from Best Buy tonight. It might sound silly, but where do I put the adapter once I get it? I mean what location in the truck? I am very new to this...

You have to get a BT OBDII adapter. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Version-Blueto...bluetooth+obd2

The OBD2 port is to the left of the steering wheel, near the hood release. The opening is facing the floor pan.

[rowhard]

Ok, I will probably go pick up a Blue Tooth Adapter from Best Buy tonight. It might sound silly, but where do I put the adapter once I get it? I mean what location in the truck? I am very new to this...

the plug-in is under the dash by your left knee. why not just stop by most any auto parts place and use their OBD-II readers. They normally don't charge for using it in the hope that you will buy the parts from them

[etlsport]

Does it happen every time? It sounds like it could be a vacuum leak or a fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure regulator usually is engine temperature dependent. When mine went it would act as you describe when I tried to start it warm (ie after a long drive then it only sat for 30 min) but if I let it sit for a few hours it was normally ok.

When the hose coming from my pcv valve split(vacuum leak) no matter what the temperature of the engine was it wouldn't stay running unless I kept the rpms at 1200 or higher.

When the engine shuts off the check engine light and battery light always comes on, that doesn't indicate a problem at all. Only if those lights are on or flashing while the engine is running.

[eternal21]

why not just stop by most any auto parts place and use their OBD-II readers.

because....

If I try and put it in gear, the engine remains at a high RPM and it tries to move forward on its own. So I can not drive it anywhere to check out the engine code.

[Lfen]

I had a similar problem and changed out the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Fixed my issue.
If you yours has never been changed I would start there especially since you can't keep it running to take anywhere. When I took old one out there was some c**p inside that I cleaned out before I installed new one. Just a guess from my experience. Good luck and keep us updated on what you find out

[Y33TREKker]

X2 on either the FPR or IAC.

IAC circuits/valves can be seen on forums for many different vehicles as causing the symptoms you're experiencing, and the FPR has been the cause of such symptoms on many a VX.

I would have suggested that the drivers' side floor mat was getting pushed up against the gas pedal, but that usually just creates a high idle, and wouldn't explain why the engine is stopping after a few seconds.

[PK]

X 3 on the FPR or IAC, but I would also do a check for a cracked intake manifold gasket.
This is a known problem and causes erratic idle issues.

PK

[eternal21]

X 3 on the FPR or IAC, but I would also do a check for a cracked intake manifold gasket.
This is a known problem and causes erratic idle issues.

PK

I had the manifold gasket issue, but it wasn't causing a dying. It was a repetitious up/down, up/down, presenting just like a vacuum leak. It drove me crazy b/c that's what I thought was going on *lol*.

[PhillieG]

X 3 on the FPR or IAC, but I would also do a check for a cracked intake manifold gasket.
This is a known problem and causes erratic idle issues.

PK

That is what it was, a cracked intake manifold. Or at least I hope. I'm getting it fixed right now and they just told me what it was. Thanks for all the help and suggestions!

[evillecutter]

cheapest to most expensive that could all cause this: pcv valve, fuel pressure regulator, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, mass air flow sensor

all easily replaced yourself in very little time

[PhillieG]

My the metal rings of the intake manifold were all cracked. Also the o rings of the fuel injectors were all worn out so those o rings need to be replaced. So... I had already replaced the ignition coil packs, spark plugs, and the throttle position thing on my own - I just didn't know where to go from there lol. So tomorrow I will find out if this is going to fix the problem. I hope so. I love driving this car, it's not boring like my sedan.

[Y33TREKker]

My the metal rings of the intake manifold were all cracked...

Just to be sure, you're talking about the intake manifold gasket, and not the intake manifold itself?