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Thread: Considering going bigger...

  1. #1
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    Considering going bigger...

    hey all...

    I am considering going bigger with wheels (tires and rims) for my VX.

    My current set up is as follows:
    -285/60/18 Nitto Terra Grapplers
    -18x9 Black Rhino Sidewinder wheels (offset +12)



    -OME 913 springs
    -torsion bars cranked
    -front and rear cladding/fender trimmed at front wheel wells
    -no ball joint flip
    -no brake lines changed

    Thinking of going with:
    -Maybe going with same brand of wheels in 20x9 with same offset (+12)
    -33x12.5x20 Nitto Mud Grapplers
    -OME 912? (do I need to change springs or can I add a spacer to OME 913)
    -ball joint flip? (will this be needed now if I go bigger)
    -lengthen brake lines for new height?
    -additional trimming of cladding/fender at front wheels wells if needed
    -adjust torsion bars if needed
    -another alignment when finished


    My questions:

    -I've always adored the look of Little Beast's set up with the original 33's. Will this upgrade hurt anything (other than gas mileage) mechanically long term?

    -Those who did this mod, any issues with driving/control/braking?

    I've done most of the mods myself, except for the alignment. So, I'm pretty comfortable having to upgrade/change a few items if needed.

    I know these are a lot of questions and I've done as much research I can regarding the topic to answer most. Just want to get other opinions whether it's worth changing my existing set up as I can go either way. Thanks in advance. rudy
    For custom VehiCross skidplates and accessories, check out:
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  2. #2
    :: looking forward to the answers (have the same questions & concerns) ~ i'm doing the same set-up just with different wheels (same size) ::
    lex

  3. #3
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    IMO....


    -OME 912? (do I need to change springs or can I add a spacer to OME 913)

    Spacers are fine, I ran them with 33's and run them now with 35's

    -ball joint flip? (will this be needed now if I go bigger)

    I never did flip or diff drop with 33's.
    One outer CV boot ruptured right away..which is pretty normal.
    But not since..save one getting torn by a rock !


    -lengthen brake lines for new height?

    I run stock brake lines on 35's...and did so on 33's with no issues

    -additional trimming of cladding/fender at front wheels wells if needed

    Probably rear of front wells, possibly some metal removal..
    ...just a cross brace..not structural...... shouldnt be required at back wells.


    -adjust torsion bars if needed

    Yup..to achieve overall "stance" of front relative to back...that you like.
    Do THIS before major trimming..so you have a good idea whats required.
    Find an empty parking lot once lift & tire are on ...do some slow tight circles both ways..
    (Forward & reverse...Thanks tom )
    ...this will highlight rub points for normal street use.



    -another alignment when finished

    YUP!!!

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



    jo
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    Last edited by JoFotoz : 03/18/2014 at 01:48 PM
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoFotoz View Post
    Find an empty parking lot once lift & tire are on ...do some slow tight circles both ways..
    ...this will highlight rub points for normal street use.
    forward & reverse. Mine only rub whilst in reverse.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  5. #5
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    YUP!!...

    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    forward & reverse. Mine only rub whilst in reverse.
    100% accurate update/addition !!



    jo

  6. #6
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    Will you need adjustable rear links to center the rear wheels in the wheelwells?

    Seems I remember seeing that as you lift the VX it pulls the wheels forward in the rear wheelwells.
    Live, Love, Forgive and Never Give Up

  7. #7
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    Not really required with 33's..

    Quote Originally Posted by Mile High VX View Post
    Will you need adjustable rear links to center the rear wheels in the wheelwells?

    Seems I remember seeing that as you lift the VX it pulls the wheels forward in the rear wheelwells.
    ...but certainly a good idea with 35's.

    jo

  8. #8
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    I just put 275/70r18 (33") on mine and it did pull the back wheels forward slightly but not enough to even come close to rubbing.

  9. #9
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    Usually bigger tires just means accelerated wear of parts such as wheel bearings & brakes - the trans could perhaps see increased wear but who is to really say? The heavier tires can induce some handling oddities but nothing too severe. I've always understood it is a good idea to replace the brake lines with braided ones especially if you have bigger, heavier tires. The rear links, brake lines, & driveshaft will not need to be adjusted/lengthened. I did flip my BJs & I replaced my CV boots but I also fabbed up drop brackets for the diff as well. Be sure you consider lengthened rear bump stops also. I also installed the low-profile front bump stops for slightly more droop & even then the stock length brake lines were safe. I went from the tire size you have up to 32.5x11.5 & got after it in the front wheel well just so I did not have to worry about any rubbing. If I remember right, there was none.

    I hope these pics help...
    Last edited by ZEUS : 03/18/2014 at 03:19 PM Reason: Added pics!
    Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"

  10. #10
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    Some trimming may be required!
    Billy Oliver
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  11. #11
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    Thanks everyone for the input! Really appreciated. Since I've done most of the changes as earlier suggested, all I probably need to do is to add spacers on my OME 913 springs, flip ball joints, change to taller rear bump stops and shorter ones for the front, change to braided brake lines, and then get the bigger wheels and tires. After all is said and done, get an alignment. Will probably consider upgrading to adjustable rear links and beefier calipers and rotors in the future.

    I'm also considering changing to a different wheel that has a better offset since the ones I have are 12+ and the tires currently stick out about an 1-1/4" from the cladding. If I upgrade to the 33" tire, by my calculations, they'll stick out an additional 3/4" if I stick with the same offset. So, I may be doing some research on a better wheel offset for a 20x9 with a similar multi-spoke pattern. If I can't find any I like, I'll go with the same brand/model. Thanks all! rudy

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ron View Post
    ... the tires currently stick out about an 1-1/4" from the cladding. If I upgrade to the 33" tire, by my calculations, they'll stick out an additional 3/4" if I stick with the same offset. ...
    PHHHTT!!!

    T'ain't nuttin

  13. #13
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    "PHHHTT!!!" - Straight from the Offset Demigod.

  14. #14
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    Don't make me come out there & drop a hammer on your Goonie Toe!!!

  15. #15
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    Awesome! Sounds like you have done your research and I am looking forward to the results! I really enjoyed the 33"x12.5" tire days. I think you will be very happy :-) if you do end up getting the lower adjustable links I have a spare lengthened driveshaft I would not mind selling since I have the custom double Cardan high angle driveshaft currently installed.

    Flipped ball joint is super easy and does help with alignment adjustments. Adjustable lower links and diff drop are the two mods I would suggest, but as others have already said not absolutely required.

    Oh and what size spacers are you wanting? I might have some extra ones in the garage.

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