CV Axle replacement

[JAMAS]

So all that work yesterday.... 7hrs, and all I got where some new universal CV boots and 2 brand new CV axles in the box THAT ARE TO DAM SHORT!!!! I will never be going to Advance again!!!

My recommendation......Get the NAPA ones. They are much better quality.

Technically, we can use the same boot for inner and outer, but they list 2 part numbers. When comparing the looks of the two, you will find that the inners and outers do a have a slight appearance difference that NAPA matches. its like the spacing between the boot joint things.

[tom4bren]

Technically, we can use the same boot for inner and outer, but they list 2 part numbers. When comparing the looks of the two, you will find that the inners and outers do a have a slight appearance difference that NAPA matches. its like the spacing between the boot joint things.

YUP!!!

[MSHardeman]

Well, finally got the axle swap/ bearing repack done late last night. Haven't driven it yet because I couldn't get the zip ties tight enough to keep the inner boot from slipping off (probably because I had grease everywhere) so I'm taking it to a trusted shop to have them install some real band clamps. Also going to have them replace the passenger side lower ball joint as the boot on that is split. I tried to do the swap, but that sucker just did NOT want to release no matter how much I cranked down on my cheap puller and banged on the nut/bolt.

Thanks to everyone for answering all of my questions and holding my hand through all of this.

[JAMAS]

Well, finally got the axle swap/ bearing repack done late last night. Haven't driven it yet because I couldn't get the zip ties tight enough to keep the inner boot from slipping off (probably because I had grease everywhere) so I'm taking it to a trusted shop to have them install some real band clamps. Also going to have them replace the passenger side lower ball joint as the boot on that is split. I tried to do the swap, but that sucker just did NOT want to release no matter how much I cranked down on my cheap puller and banged on the nut/bolt.

Thanks to everyone for answering all of my questions and holding my hand through all of this.

I found that I needed to use vise grips to help with tightening the zip ties.

They dont seem to care how greasy my zip ties were.

also, cut the larger HD zip ties flush. There is minimal clearance around the inner most side of the inner boot.

[MSHardeman]

Jamas, I did use pliers to pull HARD on the zip tie, and used a screwdriver (along with some choice language) to try and push the little locking mechanism up a notch or two to get it tighter. There was no grease on the zip tie, but there was grease on the boot and the green cup so the boot seemed to slide right off of the cup no matter how tight I got the zip tie even with the lip of the boot in the groove on the green cup.

[tom4bren]

I actually had better luck with standard zip ties than I did with HD. The HD were just too wide. The standard ones fit the grooves much better.

[MSHardeman]

Well here's something to be aware of: I needed to replace my passenger side lower ball joint due to a tear in the boot. I could NOT get the ball joint to release from the knuckle so I took it to a shop to have them replace the joint while they were installing some real band clamps on the CV boots. I just heard back from the site and they said that in order to do the ball joint swap the book/program that they have states that you need to release the torsion bar to take the pressure off of the A-arms so that you can remove the ball joint. I told them that I had removed the plate that the ball joint is on by just jacking up the lower A-arm to take the pressure off of the joint.

"Oh" was the answer that I got. I know that they are just doing things by the book, and I trust this shop as they are the ones who did the engine swap for me and have always been straight up with me. They are an independent shop, but are run by a VW master mechanic who worked for a couple of the VW dealerships in the area. I'm guessing that he is still doing things by the book which is why his guys aren't thinking outside the box and just jacking up the lower A-arm instead of disconnecting the torsion bar.

Just a heads up to anyone who might have a shop replace their lower ball joints for them. The book/program states that the ball joint swap is .8 hours, but you have to release the torsion bar to do the swap (according to the book) so that adds another .7 hours to the job.

[Vinnybin]

can someone answer a quick question on this topic? Both suretracks on amazon. If I have popping in my left front, this means I need the full assembly including the cup, correct? The longer of the two is driver?

[PK]

Well here's something to be aware of: I needed to replace my passenger side lower ball joint due to a tear in the boot. I could NOT get the ball joint to release from the knuckle so I took it to a shop to have them replace the joint while they were installing some real band clamps on the CV boots. I just heard back from the site and they said that in order to do the ball joint swap the book/program that they have states that you need to release the torsion bar to take the pressure off of the A-arms so that you can remove the ball joint. I told them that I had removed the plate that the ball joint is on by just jacking up the lower A-arm to take the pressure off of the joint.

"Oh" was the answer that I got. I know that they are just doing things by the book, and I trust this shop as they are the ones who did the engine swap for me and have always been straight up with me. They are an independent shop, but are run by a VW master mechanic who worked for a couple of the VW dealerships in the area. I'm guessing that he is still doing things by the book which is why his guys aren't thinking outside the box and just jacking up the lower A-arm instead of disconnecting the torsion bar.

Just a heads up to anyone who might have a shop replace their lower ball joints for them. The book/program states that the ball joint swap is .8 hours, but you have to release the torsion bar to do the swap (according to the book) so that adds another .7 hours to the job.

This is probably due to the fact that in a workshop situation, they would most likely be doing this type of work with the vehicle on a hoist and lifted to a comfortable working height. More difficult and a bit dangerous to try and jack up the lower control arm in this instance.
At home with the vehicle on jack stands the obvious method is jacking the LCA.

PK

[MSHardeman]

PK, that's kind of the same thing that I was thinking. It was just fun to tell them that I had done the same thing without having to remove the torsion bar.

Vinnybin, you will probably be fine just buying the "half shafts". The cheapest place that I have found them is Dave's Discount Autoparts:

http://www.davesdiscountautoparts.co...search/iz-8021

Usually the outer CV joint is the one that goes and starts clicking and clacking. This joint takes up and down movement as well as turning movement so it gets pretty hammered. I thought that I was going to have to replace the whole axle from the third member out to the wheel, but once I took my driver side half shaft out I saw that water had gotten into the outer joint somehow and that was the joint that was clacking for me. Unless your inner CV boots are split, and have been for a while, they should be fine.

Billy's write-up (referenced in this thread) is perfect and if you follow it you should have no problem replacing your half shafts.

Hope that helps.

[MSHardeman]

This was the most convenient place I could think of to post this question; does anyone know how to get the outer CV joint apart, or can it be done at all?

I'm trying to rebuild my stock half shafts and the outer CV joint had some water get into it and bugger it up. I don't see the "snap ring" that the inner joint has that would allow the cage and balls to slide out of the cup (outer race) like the inner joint.

[nfpgasmask]

Mark, I do not think there is a way to get it all apart. I think they are pressed together somehow. I tried to take mine apart to clean thoroughly and I could not figure it out either, so I just cleaned them as best I could assembled, and then blew out all the old grease and solvent with air. Then I just regreased them up.

Bart

[MSHardeman]

Thanks Bart. After cleaning the joint out and having a good look at I thought the same thing. Looks like it's pressed together somehow because I couldn't find any way to take it apart. With all the water that was in the joint I think it's shot now. With all of the grease out the joint is still sticky and doesn't move as well as it should.

[nfpgasmask]

Do you actually see any rust in there?

Bart

[MSHardeman]

Don't see any rust, but the balls look stained (for lack of a better term). I'll see if I can get some pictures of it and post them up. The biggest thing is that the joint doesn't move freely. It seems to catch in a couple of spots unlike some of the other spares that I have lying around. Maybe I'll give it an overnight soak in brake cleaner and see if that will free the joint up any.