CV Axle replacement

[VehiTONY]

OK, so I believe I have found the source of many problems. I have just purchased me VX a week ago and found that the TOD system didn't work and had the check light flashing. So i took it for another test run in some sand (in 4L) and could hear clicking from under the VX while going slowly straight. Then more prominent while turning sharply all the way only..... So I checked the CV's when I got home and found at first glance the boots looked good, but where both split in the grooves.

So the question is should I replace the CV axles or are they salvageable? Can I just clean them, repack grease, and just replace the boots?... Also, is it hard to do? Any special tools?

Thanks for any help!

[tom4bren]

There are quite a few threads on this subject. Use the search function on the home page to find hours of reading enjoyment.

IMHO, if your CVs are making a noise, it's too late for them. Better start thinking about replacements.

The good news is that CV boots (even half shaft) replacements are well within the capabilities of a shade tree mechanic (I know 'cuz I are one & I've done it).

My boots gave up the ghost when I was about 200 miles from home. By the time I got home & replaced the boots & repacked the joints, it didn't do any good ... CVs were toast.

[VehiTONY]

Thanks everyone for the info..
If it's pretty easy then I may try it. I'm not a mechanic but have replaced hubs in a Nissan and other similar stuff. Just a little worried about the time it wil take me since I work 6 days a week.

[Triathlete]

Yep, noise means replace. A fairly simple process but messy.

[JAMAS]

what part goes bad when they go bad? Do the cups get ground down, or is it the gear or bearings???

are the axles an easy part to locate?

I replaced both inner and outer boot on my passenger side after I noticed a tear, but no noise and will be replacing my driver side inner and outer boot due to dry rot that will become a tear. I am hoping that will be good for awhile, but its always nice to know about my backup plan.

[tom4bren]

The balls (bearings) wear a groove into the green cup (outer race) and in the star (inner race). As the bearings slip into & out of the worn grooves, that's what causes the clicking sound.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cv_joint

has an animated graphic that'll help you to see what's going on.

[JAMAS]

The balls (bearings) wear a groove into the green cup (outer race) and in the star (inner race). As the bearings slip into & out of the worn grooves, that's what causes the clicking sound.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cv_joint

has an animated graphic that'll help you to see what's going on.

Ah. Ok. that makes sense.

So in case I or someone else hears the clicking of a worn CV, is the problem mostly an irritating noise that is only corrected by a replacement and can be driven for awhile before repair? Or does it need to be fixed immediately to avoid further damage to other parts?

I only ask because I am replacing both sets of boots before a 3k mile journey to MOAB. If I goofed up and did a bad job cleaning, or didnt install somthing perfect and I hear the clicking suddenly on my way, am I safe to continue?

[tom4bren]

The clicking will get progressively worse. Eventually the joint could get bad enough to bind & explode. The clicking will get so bad that you won't be able to stand it long before it would get to the point of exploding.

CV joints are actually pretty strong & are designed to last the life of the vehicle. They typically only go bad if the boot is torn and contaminates get in. I'm sure you cleaned & lubed well enough that you won't have anything to worry about on your trip to Moab.

[JAMAS]

The clicking will get progressively worse. Eventually the joint could get bad enough to bind & explode. The clicking will get so bad that you won't be able to stand it long before it would get to the point of exploding.

CV joints are actually pretty strong & are designed to last the life of the vehicle. They typically only go bad if the boot is torn and contaminates get in. I'm sure you cleaned & lubed well enough that you won't have anything to worry about on your trip to Moab.

I hope so. I cleaned the parts that were taken apart from the inner joint real good and tried to get the majority of the old grease from the outer joint, but didnt use any brake cleaner since I was working in a closed in garage with the doors all shut. I filled it really good with the grease the was provided. I guess time will tell.

The boot was torn, but not blown apart, so maybe I got a little lucky and didn't get many contaminants in there.

[JAMAS]

Sorry VehiTONY...I realized I just totally jacked your thread.

hopefully some of the answers to my questions helped you.

[VehiTONY]

Sorry VehiTONY...I realized I just totally jacked your thread.

hopefully some of the answers to my questions helped you.

All the answers to yours and mine have helped... I know enough to know they will still last but I am wondering if this is the cause of the TOD system check light being on also. The 4high does not engage at all. I was told to check all the connections and haven't had the chance yet, but thought I would do that at the same time as the axle.

The CV doesn't make any noise what so ever while im just driving around either. only when I manually engage the 4low and only when turning sharp. Like turning all the way to one side.

[tom4bren]

FYI, sharp cornering stresses the outter CVs while flexing the suspension stresses the inner CVs. So, it sounds like your trouble is in your outters. Not that it makes any difference since they both get replaced with the new axles.

& no, noisy CVs shouldn't cause a TOD check light. That is typically a bad sensor.

[VehiTONY]

FYI, sharp cornering stresses the outter CVs while flexing the suspension stresses the inner CVs. So, it sounds like your trouble is in your outters. Not that it makes any difference since they both get replaced with the new axles.

& no, noisy CVs shouldn't cause a TOD check light. That is typically a bad sensor.

Thanks for the info, I'll be sure to check all the sensors then when I get under there.

[tom4bren]

There's a way to get the computer to tell you which sensor is bad. I'll have to find the instructions - something about shorting 2 pins on the OBD II connector & counting the number of flashes of the TOD check light.

But go ahead and check all the connectors first & check all wiring near the exhaust for burns & shorts. Either of those can cause the computer to think you have a bad sensor.

[JAMAS]

Well gosh, those half shafts are cheaper than replacing inner and outer boots. Darn it!

hind sight is definitely 20/20.