CV Axle replacement

[JAMAS]

So all that work yesterday.... 7hrs, and all I got where some new universal CV boots and 2 brand new CV axles in the box THAT ARE TO DAM SHORT!!!! I will never be going to Advance again!!!

My recommendation......Get the NAPA ones. They are much better quality.

Technically, we can use the same boot for inner and outer, but they list 2 part numbers. When comparing the looks of the two, you will find that the inners and outers do a have a slight appearance difference that NAPA matches. its like the spacing between the boot joint things.

[tom4bren]

Technically, we can use the same boot for inner and outer, but they list 2 part numbers. When comparing the looks of the two, you will find that the inners and outers do a have a slight appearance difference that NAPA matches. its like the spacing between the boot joint things.

YUP!!!

[MSHardeman]

Well, finally got the axle swap/ bearing repack done late last night. Haven't driven it yet because I couldn't get the zip ties tight enough to keep the inner boot from slipping off (probably because I had grease everywhere) so I'm taking it to a trusted shop to have them install some real band clamps. Also going to have them replace the passenger side lower ball joint as the boot on that is split. I tried to do the swap, but that sucker just did NOT want to release no matter how much I cranked down on my cheap puller and banged on the nut/bolt.

Thanks to everyone for answering all of my questions and holding my hand through all of this.

[JAMAS]

Well, finally got the axle swap/ bearing repack done late last night. Haven't driven it yet because I couldn't get the zip ties tight enough to keep the inner boot from slipping off (probably because I had grease everywhere) so I'm taking it to a trusted shop to have them install some real band clamps. Also going to have them replace the passenger side lower ball joint as the boot on that is split. I tried to do the swap, but that sucker just did NOT want to release no matter how much I cranked down on my cheap puller and banged on the nut/bolt.

Thanks to everyone for answering all of my questions and holding my hand through all of this.

I found that I needed to use vise grips to help with tightening the zip ties.

They dont seem to care how greasy my zip ties were.

also, cut the larger HD zip ties flush. There is minimal clearance around the inner most side of the inner boot.

[MSHardeman]

Jamas, I did use pliers to pull HARD on the zip tie, and used a screwdriver (along with some choice language) to try and push the little locking mechanism up a notch or two to get it tighter. There was no grease on the zip tie, but there was grease on the boot and the green cup so the boot seemed to slide right off of the cup no matter how tight I got the zip tie even with the lip of the boot in the groove on the green cup.

[tom4bren]

I actually had better luck with standard zip ties than I did with HD. The HD were just too wide. The standard ones fit the grooves much better.

[MSHardeman]

Well here's something to be aware of: I needed to replace my passenger side lower ball joint due to a tear in the boot. I could NOT get the ball joint to release from the knuckle so I took it to a shop to have them replace the joint while they were installing some real band clamps on the CV boots. I just heard back from the site and they said that in order to do the ball joint swap the book/program that they have states that you need to release the torsion bar to take the pressure off of the A-arms so that you can remove the ball joint. I told them that I had removed the plate that the ball joint is on by just jacking up the lower A-arm to take the pressure off of the joint.

"Oh" was the answer that I got. I know that they are just doing things by the book, and I trust this shop as they are the ones who did the engine swap for me and have always been straight up with me. They are an independent shop, but are run by a VW master mechanic who worked for a couple of the VW dealerships in the area. I'm guessing that he is still doing things by the book which is why his guys aren't thinking outside the box and just jacking up the lower A-arm instead of disconnecting the torsion bar.

Just a heads up to anyone who might have a shop replace their lower ball joints for them. The book/program states that the ball joint swap is .8 hours, but you have to release the torsion bar to do the swap (according to the book) so that adds another .7 hours to the job.