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Is it possible you've lost your camber shims on the upper control arm? Given the way you've described the position of the wheel/tire assembly changing from time to time (when it was put on a lift then lowered, after you've driven it), maybe you have some play around the upper control arm fulcrum pin?
Wouldn't that cause an uneven ride? I was told that all of the wheels are centered so the wear on the tires are relatively equal.
I'm not really sure WHAT results it would have. If the shims were gone, it seems like there would be some play not normally there and a person would likely hear something knocking back and forth when making direction changes.
I'm simply trying to guess what could be causing that tire to at some times look normal and at some times look like it's sticking out farther than the other side as you've described.
On a front wheel drive car I have, I seem to recall c-clip retainers having to be used when installing the cv-joints. Maybe the one on your passenger side has come off?
I still think it is just a body panel alignment issue since you have no other symthoms. The VX was hand assembled and since ceramic dyes were used parts are all just a bit different.
Billy Oliver
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I haven't noticed any clicking, clacking or wobbling. The ride is smooth. When I say that the wheel looks like it 'evens out' is when that wheel is on the slightly higher end of uneven ground which makes it look normal for some reason. And is there a way of checking straightness of the body panel alignment? I was thinking that the cladding might have been molded differently on that wheel but it measures roughly the same dimensions as the driver side.
Another possibility is if you had ball joints replaced on one side and not the other. Some of the aftermarket bj's are wider.
Would that create an inch difference?
It could.
Haven't read through the whole thread so this may have been suggested already, but are you sure both of your front torsion bars are indexed the same? Did someone start to do a lift on it and then just stop after doing one side?
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A buddy of mine was thinking the same thing, but wouldn't the torsion create a difference in the wheel coming towards the center instead of the wheel being sucked in?
The torsion bars would/could cause a height difference. All Caster/Camber/Tow-in is corrected for after the torsion bar crank.
You could do the ball joint flip & see if that allows the alignment shop to get it into alignment & adjust something to push the wheel inboard.
I'm being vague since I really don't think that there is an adjustment for that.
If your ride is good & your alignment is spot on, I'd strongly suggest to try & shim the fender and/or cladding to get the aesthetics to your liking.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
T bars would not cause a width difference, only height.
A man of to-many words Tom