Ball Joint Replacement

[JHarris1385]

..First I know there are a number of posts/threads about this but I am making a new one instead of replying to 4-5 and making them current.

My VX is getting another overhaul, this time some suspension parts and a muffler.

Super 44 Flowmaster will be installed Monday.

I need all 4 ball joints replaced.

1. (Tools/difficulty) I havent decided if I should do it myself or not. Seems like a few have had problems getting them off. For the ones that have tried, did you struggle with using only the long fork or were you using/used the separator tool that you wrench? I replied to that other post about the $200 tool that quickly does it but before the post had planned on buying the harbor freight version.

2. (Source/Quality) I normally buy from Advanced Auto Parts for their quality and price (always a coupon code somewhere for them). I can get Driveworks cheap then Beck Arnley as well ($72 for all four Driveworks). However there is this kit on Ebay that includes tie rod ends: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-S...fff10b&vxp=mtr

I think it was Tri that replaced with an ebay kit, any issues with them?

Thanks in advance

[eternal21]

1. (Tools/difficulty) I havent decided if I should do it myself or not. Seems like a few have had problems getting them off. For the ones that have tried, did you struggle with using only the long fork or were you using/used the separator tool that you wrench? I replied to that other post about the $200 tool that quickly does it but before the post had planned on buying the harbor freight version.

Harbor Freight unit won't work;the opening is too small.

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewto...=77867#p687672

[JHarris1385]

Did any alternative work for you?

[VXorado]

A pitman arm puller works great for pulling the ball joints & tie rods (& pitman arm ) on the VX. Takes a couples minutes per joint once in place. I paid around $10 at O'Reillys for my pitman arm puller a few years ago and have used it countless times. In fact, I don't take off for a trail run without it!



To replace the upper (UBJ) & lower ball joints (LBJ)...
1. Remove front tires and support everything with jackstands
2. Remove castle nut on LBJ and place puller on balljoint.
3. Tighten down puller. Once tight, tap hammer on ball joint every turn until it pops free.
4. Loosen 4 bolts for LBJ and remove assembly
5. Remove axle hub and snap ring for half-shaft
6. Pull spindle out and up until half shaft splines are pulled out of hub. Move half-shaft to the side
7. Install lower ball joint on Spindle, install 1-2 bolts on control arm and hand tighten. Doing this keeps the spindle in place when you remove the UBJ. You may need to jack up lower control arm to place LBJ for bolts.
7. With half-shaft out of the way, you can place puller on UBJ. Follow step #2&3 for procedure.
8. Install new UBJ, Remove bolts for LBJ, fit half-shaft back in hub and install all bolts for LBJ.
9. Repeat for other side.

It's really not difficult... If you have access to a decent set of tools, the job should only take a couple hours for all 4 ball joints.

I bought cheap autozone BJs years ago because they were inexpensive and had a lifetime warranty. Terrible idea! I've since replaced the lower ball joints at least 4 times and the uppers twice. Personally, I would spend the money on MOOG if I did it again.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...an++arm+puller

[JHarris1385]

Thanks Rado.

You would suggest buy the puller vs. the separator tool of similar price point?

Did you break your joints off roading or from normal use?
Moog is nearly triple $.

[VXorado]

Personally, I would buy the pitman arm puller because it works well for so many things. I'm sure there are advantages to either. I recently had to remove a pitman arm and already had the tool to do it... which (for once) was nice.

I actually had the most issues with the autozone ball joints driving on pavement. I'm sure the 35s didn't help.

[JoFotoz]

Flowmaster Super 44 .........

.............

Love mine.

Jo

[JHarris1385]

Yeah pretty excited to have a good muffler, and took your advice from a previous thread back in March.

From what I have read on the Planet is both Moog and Beck Arn. package re-branded parts.

$75 for all four corners for Driveworks and $160 for all four Moogs at Rock Auto. Not too bad of an increase.

[eternal21]

When I did mine, I went ahead and picked up the ball joint spacers from Independent4x and completed the ball joint flip, as well. Might want to think about that while you're in there.

[JHarris1385]

You think the 1/4 inch makes enough difference?

[BigSwede]

You think the 1/4 inch makes enough difference?

Once you have done the BJ 'flip', it is easy to add the spacers later on if you can't get the camber within spec.

[JHarris1385]

They could not get the Super 44, but did install a 40, very impressed.

I ordered Moog on all 4 corners and Timken bearings as well.

STILL OVERHEATING:
I have in the past year:
Flushed Rad.
New Thermostat, Water Pump, Timing Belt, Serp Belt, Tensioner, Intake gaskets.
TP sensor...etc im forgetting too.

[Triathlete]

Have you changed your fan clutch for the overheating issue?

[eternal21]

Have you changed your fan clutch for the overheating issue?

+1. Truck overheated for over 2+ years. Tried an electric fan, chemicals (Water Wetter) + TWO electric fans, wired the a/c fan to stay on all the time, custom fan shroud, bigger radiator.....still over heated. Replaced the stock fan clutch, went back to the original fan and no more problems.

Two years of suffering, man. TWO YEARS.

[circmand]

In my other car was showing over heated. Took it in the guy used a infrared temperature gun turns out wasn't over heated the voltage regulator was bad and showed everything higher than it was. Also affected my gas gauge and I ran out of gas in the middle of the Mohave Desert