Project VXOverLand

[Thelgord]

I drove it today with the transmission cold. When cold I get hard shift from 2nd -> 3rd, along with the low power in first. After a ton of googling, it seems my transmission is going into “limp mode”. This would also explain some strange numbers from the computer regarding applied horse power. Most common fix seems to be the mode selector switch. I have worked on it before to clean it. Since then I have had to re-align the shift linkage to compensate, so it is possible I didn’t get it right the first time. I am going to try and clean it out again, and see what that does. Either way, I plan on doing the diff fluid (front and back) this weekend.

[Malibu_Robert]

What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...

[Thelgord]

What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...

I have a Harbor Freight scan tool. I need to get the higher end one so I can read abs codes, but this works for now.

[Thelgord]

Update on transmission issues!

So as it turns out, my transmission may actually be fine. After months of extensive work, and over $500 in parts, it may not actually be the transmission. As it turns out our transmission can have the same symptoms from fuel pressure being out of spec. I have ordered a fuel pressure test kit. If the pressure is too high, it is the pressure regulator. Which would suck as I have already changed it once. If it is too low then there is a feed problem. Could be a line blockage, bad fuel filter, clogged fuel pump strainer, or a bad fuel pump.

With the symptoms in the transmission I am guessing it is a low pressure problem, but that is a guess, which is why I ordered the test kit (only $25 on amazon). It should be here tomorrow and the test should only take a few minutes.

After the amount of work I have done to this thing, I was both glad and pissed that I found this information from both Isuzu and BMW mechanics on FB. I may have been chasing a ghost for 8 months. Hopefully this test will tell me where to go to excise this gremlin.

[89Vette]

That SOUNDS like a stretch. I wouldn't consider symptoms the same -- at all. When I read about the startup/shifting problem (after sensor swap), it sounded like the torque-converter might not be full yet (air bubbles -- as you posted). Wasn't sure if running it (til warm), then shifting thru gears was the "cure"? But, I found something like that posted on the net for our trannies. (All of this done with the vehicle stationary).

FP can go pretty high w/o issue. Engines have the ability to compensate for significant variance. When FP is too high, the ECM shortenes injector pulse width (PW) to reduce the amount of fuel and bring things back "into spec". When it's too low, the engine won't run right because you've have a lean condition -- whose symptoms would present much differently in my mind. Missing/bucking engine isn't the same as a transmission with shifting issues. Someone without knowledge of either might not know -- but anyone willing to swap trans sensors themselves seems to savvy to mistake the two.

AutoZone lends FP testers -- so you really didn't need to buy anything

[Malibu_Robert]

What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...

I have a Harbor Freight scan tool. I need to get the higher end one so I can read abs codes, but this works for now.

I've looked at user manuals for the following tools from Harbor Freight:

Cen-Tech Deluxe OBDII Scan Tool (Item 62119) $49.97
Zurich ZR4 OBD2 Code Reader (Item 63808) $44.99
Zurich ZR8 OBD2 Code Reader with Live Data (Item 63809) $84.99
Zurich ZR11 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS (Item 63807) $139.99
Zurich ZR13 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS/SRS/FixAssist® (Item 63806) $189.99

None of them appear to have a PIDs for transmission fluid temperature. Which one do you have?

[Thelgord]

What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...

I have a Harbor Freight scan tool. I need to get the higher end one so I can read abs codes, but this works for now.

I've looked at user manuals for the following tools from Harbor Freight:

Cen-Tech Deluxe OBDII Scan Tool (Item 62119) $49.97
Zurich ZR4 OBD2 Code Reader (Item 63808) $44.99
Zurich ZR8 OBD2 Code Reader with Live Data (Item 63809) $84.99
Zurich ZR11 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS (Item 63807) $139.99
Zurich ZR13 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS/SRS/FixAssist® (Item 63806) $189.99

None of them appear to have a PIDs for transmission fluid temperature. Which one do you have?

I have no idea what I was thinking when I posted that. Sorry. I must have either been really tired, or completely brain farted the entire thing. My scan tool does not read transmission temperature. To correct what I was saying, I don’t have a way to check the temperature at the moment. I usually just take it for a 10-15 minute drive then park it while running. Not exactly a scientific method, but it what I have at the moment. I have heard there is way to use one of those touchless laser thermometers to do it, but I havn’t tried that.

[Thelgord]

That SOUNDS like a stretch. I wouldn't consider symptoms the same -- at all. When I read about the startup/shifting problem (after sensor swap), it sounded like the torque-converter might not be full yet (air bubbles -- as you posted). Wasn't sure if running it (til warm), then shifting thru gears was the "cure"? But, I found something like that posted on the net for our trannies. (All of this done with the vehicle stationary).

FP can go pretty high w/o issue. Engines have the ability to compensate for significant variance. When FP is too high, the ECM shortenes injector pulse width (PW) to reduce the amount of fuel and bring things back "into spec". When it's too low, the engine won't run right because you've have a lean condition -- whose symptoms would present much differently in my mind. Missing/bucking engine isn't the same as a transmission with shifting issues. Someone without knowledge of either might not know -- but anyone willing to swap trans sensors themselves seems to savvy to mistake the two.

AutoZone lends FP testers -- so you really didn't need to buy anything

I tested the fuel pressure, and it was indeed low. Swapped out the fuel filter and all was correct again. You are correct that I didn’t “need” to buy anything. But now I have one

[Thelgord]

Update on my transmission ... woes continue ...

So I swapped out the fuel filter and took it for a test drive. It ran sooooo smooth and perfect. No hard shifting. No slipping. It was honestly the best ride I have had yet. That last right up until I tried to pull into my driveway, slight shutter, very slight, but noticeable. I took it back out again.

This time, instead of a “shutter”, it was like a dragging clutch. All RPM and no power, then it grabbed, but not all at once. More like letting out a clutch pedal. I took the VX down the highway a few miles to the local high-school parking lot. Same thing all the way. It would slip in any gear if I gave it enough gas. On the return trip I was worried I wouldn’t make it home. But I did. If this was a manual I would say it felt like I was riding with my foot resting on the clutch pedal. There was also a groaning noise from the VX while in gear. Due to wind I could only hear it at very slow speeds (like less than 10mph). It doesn’t help that wear hearing aids.

On the plus side, the fuel filter did seam to fix my hard shifting issues, and I don’t need a fuel pump. On the downside, I am ready to burn this thing down. LOL!

I am wondering if I checking the fluid levels while it is still too cold, even after a 15 minute drive? I really need a way to check this.

[Thelgord]

Yay! Best day with the VX ever!!!!

Took a friend for a drive to try to recreate the issues. Nothing! Every shift was smooth. Drove for 125 miles, even took it on the interstate, twice! I could not get the transmission to slip. No idea what finally did it, but it’s working great! Yaaaaaaaayyyyyyy!

[Malibu_Robert]

What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...

I have a Harbor Freight scan tool. I need to get the higher end one so I can read abs codes, but this works for now.

I've looked at user manuals for the following tools from Harbor Freight:

Cen-Tech Deluxe OBDII Scan Tool (Item 62119) $49.97
Zurich ZR4 OBD2 Code Reader (Item 63808) $44.99
Zurich ZR8 OBD2 Code Reader with Live Data (Item 63809) $84.99
Zurich ZR11 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS (Item 63807) $139.99
Zurich ZR13 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS/SRS/FixAssist® (Item 63806) $189.99

None of them appear to have a PIDs for transmission fluid temperature. Which one do you have?

I have no idea what I was thinking when I posted that. Sorry. I must have either been really tired, or completely brain farted the entire thing. My scan tool does not read transmission temperature. To correct what I was saying, I don’t have a way to check the temperature at the moment. I usually just take it for a 10-15 minute drive then park it while running. Not exactly a scientific method, but it what I have at the moment. I have heard there is way to use one of those touchless laser thermometers to do it, but I havn’t tried that.

Thanks Chris. No worries. I'm the one who posted the question to the Facebook group. Seems like everyone just estimates the temperature. I haven't found anyone who pulled the info with a scan tool. On Planetisuzoo someone managed to get it to work on a Trooper by configuring x-gauges on the Scangauge tool. But it didn't work for them on the VX. Later on, I think I will try to do what Willy Lin suggested, add a T to the cooler line and put a sensor there.

[Thelgord]

CHnaged out the spark plugs today. Auto-lite double platinum. The old ones were ... gross. On the plus side, OBD2 says the timing advance isn’t jumping around anymore at idle. Rock solid.

This build has taken a lot of time, and a lot of frustration. Some days it has been like entering arena combat. It is getting there, slowly, one step at a time, but it is getting there.

[Thelgord]

With my winch currently behind the cladding and grill, there was no easy way to access to the clutch controls. Today, I cut a hole in the lower portion so I can actuate the winch clutch. It wasn’t easy, and I got done just as it was getting dark, but it’s done. Not the prettiest things, but it is functional. Fortunately I do not plan to keep the stock grill, or if I do it will be “trimmed” even more. Eventually the entire front cladding will be replaced with a plate bumper, but this works for now. It’s too dark to get a decent picture tonight, I will try to get one tomorrow.

[Thelgord]

The almost finished product. Still have to wait for the glue to dry then cleanup.

[Thelgord]

I ordered a thing! 2 things actually. I ordered 2, 5 packs of switch mounts from amazon. I wanted to post a link to the exact ones, but they seem to have pulled them. Maybe I got the last of them? Anyway, I will give a link to the sellers page:
https://www.amazon.com/sp?_encoding=...b=&vasStoreID=

Maybe they will become available again? I really have no idea.


Here is the first pic:


And here is the second:


Like I said, I got 2, 5 packs. Each pack included 2 end pieces and 3 center pieces. By combining them I made a seven segment set of mount that fits perfectly in the lower dash! It is much snugger than the pics suggest. I didn’t clip them in yet because I am unsure of how easily they can be removed once they are snapped into place.

This also leaves me with two more end pieces and one center piece. I can still make another 2 or segment switch mount if I need to. I may just save them back for a bit.

I spent a very long time contemplating what to do with this portion of the dash. I couldn’t just leave a gaping hole. I considered making a custom plate that would screw into the plastic to hold four or five switches. Then I found this gem. I actually found them a few months ago. I probably over studied them, but I am glad I did all the research into these things. The fit is perfect for 7 switches, which means I really can do math from time to time