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  1. #1
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    mobil 1 flush ?

    I have deciced to switch to Mobil 1 oil . I was told the previous owner used Quaker state ..yuk.. not a fan of qs.. I have read on here that synthetics break lose the sluge. I was thinking about using an engine flush before I switch. does anyone see any problems with doing this ? Would it do any harm to the alum. engine ? Also I visted my frendily local Isuzu dealer ...Courtesy Isuzu ..in Alliance Ohio. The tech was very helpful and freindly told me to make sure i replace the" pcv valve" every other oil change if not the engine will start using oil ...and will also clog the 'EGR valve.There a smalltown dealer !!
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  2. #2
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    Skip the flush. All it will do is thin the oil and remove the sludge quicker. The problems associated with synth. and sludge removal are gasket and seal leaks on higher mileage or sludged up engines. All a flush will do is accellerate this, if it's going to happen at all. Considering the problems some people are reporting regarding bearing failures I can't recommend putting a thinning agent in the oil. Just go synth. and then if you develope leaks you might want to try one of the conventional oils for hi-mileage engines that rejuvinate (read SWELL) the seals.

    Old school mechanics used to add some trans fluid ( very high in detergent) into the oil fill to help clean the internals, but again, it will also thin the oil.

    Another option: If you want you can go synth. and then just do your 2nd synth. oil change early, like 500- 1000 miles.

  3. #3
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    Re: mobil 1 flush ?

    Originally posted by VX FIX
    Also I visted my frendily local Isuzu dealer ...Courtesy Isuzu ..in Alliance Ohio. The tech was very helpful and freindly told me to make sure i replace the" pcv valve" every other oil change if not the engine will start using oil ...and will also clog the 'EGR valve.
    Can't help but wonder if there's a tie-in between this and Anita's post, regarding EGR related engine failure?

    Bad PCV > engine starts sucking oil > which fouls the EGR >causing higher engine temps and the rest of the script Anita posted?

  4. #4
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    Flush IS a good idea, I flush every other oil change and use synthetic with over 60K on the engine. PCV every other oil change? NOT! They can be cleaned easily with carb cleaner but do not need replacing anywhere near that often. EGR tube does get clogged but throw a code well before any damage has occured.
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  5. #5
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    Amsoil sells a flush that you can use, but from what I've read, it's not really necessary. The nature of the synth oil will de-sludge the engine itself. Maybe a good idea to change the filter earlier, but not a total oil change.

    I also read some time ago that synth oil will not cause leaky seals. Even though the synth flows better, it is just as good or better for the seals and does not cause them to leak.

    Joe

  6. #6
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    some flushes are "LIKE" water

    You're right it won't CAUSE leaky seals. What it will do is break down the sludge or varnish that kept oil from leaking out of a worn seal. So, it basically REVEALS worn seals.

    If you really want to test an engine flush, go buy your regular oil change stuff and also buy some good cheap oil, minus 1 quart, and filter(get oil that is as clear as possible, I think regular mobil or quaker state?). Do a change with the cheap stuff and start up and add your flush. Follow the flush directions. Now, drain the oil and observe the color (put some in a clear glass container). Remember that any oil change leaves some residual old oil in the engine.

    If you notice a REAL difference in color then the flush was effective.

    Now, do your regular oil change, remembering that there is still some residual flush in the engine.

    I really don't think flushing is that necessary if regular oil change intervals are followed. On the other hand, if you're not the original owner and don't know how the vehicle was previously maintained. A flush or 2 might be O.K.. Still, I wouldn't recommend doing it regularly OR on super hi-mileage engines, with our dubious bearing situation.

  7. #7
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    Wink Re: Re: mobil 1 flush ?

    Originally posted by SGT.BATGUANO
    Can't help but wonder if there's a tie-in between this and Anita's post, regarding EGR related engine failure?

    Bad PCV > engine starts sucking oil > which fouls the EGR >causing higher engine temps and the rest of the script Anita posted?
    Changed my PCV today.....bought it at AutoZone for under $4 and changed it out in the parking lot in 5 min. Had to take the decorative engine cover off to get at it...then it was a snap!
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  8. #8
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    My biggest concern was the alum engine the vx has , I have used the flush in my 1990 jeep with 167 k on it. I just figured I would get as much of the sluge out before I switched to Mobil 1 .The oil in the vx was changed every 3 k . Thanks for all the advice .This site is great!!!

  9. #9
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    Exclamation Be Warned...

    ...Only flush if you are prepared to replace your seals. Sure, sludge sounds nasty, but it IS an integral PART of your engine filling the inevitable gaps of wear and tear. Changing your oil every 3000 is the best thing you can do to keep excess contamination out. Only flush if you KNOW the engine has been abused and you are ready to rebuild.
    NAVIGATOR

  10. #10
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    Where do ya’ll come up with these stories? Flush ain’t gonna hurt when you follow the instructions and can even help prevent problems like clogged oil journals. They are safe for seals and are mostly diesel fuel.

  11. #11
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    Red face

    This is an instance where I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with anything that has been said...only offering a piece of info I heard when attending a class at a trade school in Pittsburgh:

    I took a class called "Tribology" which is the study of lubricants.
    The teacher there told us that if you have an "older" automatic transmission that is coated internally with varnish and you use a "flush" type solvent on it, it will remove the varnish and then your seals will begin to leak as the varnish was what was keeping the older seals from leaking.

    I was never a fan of Quaker State oil 'cause it "was" a parafine based oil outta Pennsylvania and I saw what it did to my Grandfather's Ford LTD...loads of gumballs!

    However, I've been told that neither Quaker State nor Pennzoil comes from Pennsyvania anymore and is therefore no longer a Parafine-based oil. If this is true (pretty sure it is!) then I wouldn't bother flushing since the previous owner changed oil every 3k miles and the oil isn't parafine-based anymore so there shouldn't be sludge buildup internally.

    P.S.<------Mobil 1 SuperSyn User here!
    Last edited by Jolly Roger VX'er : 12/22/2003 at 07:51 AM

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