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Thread: Brake Pedal Effort

  1. #1
    Member Since
    Feb 2004
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    2001, Kaiser 1188
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    Brake Pedal Effort

    Wondering if there's any way to change the brake pedal assist on my VX (or any vehicle for that matter). I always kinda feel like I'm barely holding her back at a light. It kinda reminds me of my old '71 Chevelle. As far as I know the pads/rotors are fine, no squeaks or anything. Anyone else experienced this?
    Formerly VxRaNgEr

  2. #2
    could be a few bubbles in the brake lines, or simply worn out fluid.. i dont have any problems, but ive been comptemplating flushing out my brake lines and replacing the fluid with new synthetic.. ive used ate and valvoline in the past in other vehicles with good results (and a mityvac transfer pump...i love that thing!)
    be warned though, wear gloves if you do this..the new synth fluid will suck the moisture out of any skin it contacts like a bad horror movie...great for brakes, horrible on the skin, and even painfull...
    so unless someone tells me this is a bad idea, ill probably include this in my next major service (as soon as i can make time, unkown service history and all.)

    anyhow, bad fluid or a bit of air will make brakes "squishy" id look there first...
    Maverick
    99' Ebony VX sold...

  3. #3
    Member Since
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    What's your idle speed in drive, with brakes on and in neutral?

  4. #4
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    2001 Ebony S/C #1304
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    SpyHunter, mine is much the same now since I got it back from the body shop. I really have to drop a tad more foot on the pedal to keep her still. The brake system was fully drained down since the entire front driver side suspension, steering, and brake system was mashed in. I agree, it's most likely some air that needs to be bled out, but I am in no hurry right now. I figure once I can tinker in my driveway in some tolerable weather, I will get around to it. Too simple a job to go to the shop.
    Gary Noonan
    '01 S/C VX / '18 Forester XT

  5. #5
    Member Since
    Feb 2004
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    2001, Kaiser 1188
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    Worm-

    Sounds simple enough...I'll recruit my bro for it :yesg:

    Idle (warm):
    P: 500
    P w/brake: 450

    Same in D and D w/brake.

  6. #6
    Member Since
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    Just wanted to make sure that you weren't fighting against a hi- idle problem.

    Be sure to check pads for thickness and all (inside and outside) rotor surfaces for wear or grooving.

    If you do the syn. fluid thing, try to do it on a low humidity day.

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