Engine failure poll?

[rx7tt95]

I'm currently a bit over 100K on the original engine. It's used oil since about 40K miles perhaps....recently I switched to 15w-50 Mobil1 synth instead of the 10W30 synthetic. I've used synth since day one, either Royal Purple when I'm feeling frisky to off the shelf Mobil 1 synth(which if you didn't know, is no longer a true synthetic but a highly refined dino-based oil like Syntec). Oil consumption problems stopped with the switch to the heavier weight. Being in subtropical Florida, the heavier weight isn't an issue. I JUST replaced the sparkplugs for the first time...they were almost gone, worn down to the electrode "nub". Replaced them with stock plugs. I use Royal Purple in in the tranny, transfer and diffs. It's never been in for regular maintenance (other than oil, tranny and bearing repack for the hubs) and is still going strong. If we don't trade her in for a "vert", I'll probably spend the money to change the belt and have the valves clearanced.

[austin8502]

Just ran across this thread and thought I would post my info... my engine failed at 78k. It had to be rebuilt twice.

[Tone]

lowzone, when the timing belt fails on an Isuzu it does NOT trash the engine since it is a non-inteference type.

http://cherolet.com/trailblazer.htm

http://isuzu.com/ascender5.jsp;jsess...47EBEE.tomcat3

They are the same vehicles with a few panel and trim choices. A Chevy motor. Isuzu did not make this vehicle. An Isuzu exec brought one to Moab year before last when they announced the end of the Trooper and no one took him up on his offer to look at or drive it.

And BTW, you did spell it right! :winkp:

[Mark B]

2000 Dragon Green, 39,999 miles and still going.
No major problems at this time.
All the issues on engine failure concern me.
Anything I can do to hopefully extend the life of my engine?
I do regular scheduled maintenance on my VX.

[LeglizHemp]

2001 39,500 miles

had some overheating probs this summer. nothing bad. noticed in late may while sitting in parking lot at work smoking a cigarette at break time with car running and A/C on that car would almost overheat in 15 mins. this is 1st year no workplace smoking laws in effect here. it sucks. it never got that hot while driving. i attributed it to the 90 degree weather. noticed again while in traffic after the F1 race in june. hot day air conditioning on and stopped and stopped more traffic. it concerned me some but but didn't happen again. i went from indy to DC and virginia coast and back in early july. no problems. took car in for oil change tonight and told dealer about overheating and to look into it. guy said they took off radiator cap and it was bubbling, which he said was a sign of a blown head gasket or a cracked head. he said i'd be fine thru the winter but next year could be real bad.

what do you think? fix it now or fix it later? and does this sound correct?

[MoonRaker]

Im rebuilding my motor cause someone sludged the oil before I bought it, I told isuzu about it when I got it at 36,000 miles but they said it was OK, iwalked away calling them cocksuckers. Its at 65,000 miles now 5000 over warenty and im lucky I made it a 1000 miles from DC to Florida, had to change the oil every 500 miles because it was fuming me out and the oil was burning that fast. It also blew the rear main. Gona do a teardown this week and look at the damage. Does anyone now what the cylinder walls are made of. Im thinking of getting them nickosiled to stock specks and getting total seal to make up some gapless rings for it. Do alittle head porting and angle cut the valves and seats, and bearings. Kinda build it bullet proof, atleast try.

[jgalt]

2000 - 65,000 miles

Rod knock started at dealer while in for 60K service. Bought a re-built long block from Rhino Engines for $3,900 (3-year, 100,000 mile warranty) vs near 6,000 from the local Isuzu dealer (1-year warranty). Seems pretty tight now.

[chriswtx]

I was looking at a 2001 with 52K miles on it to buy. Now after reading this I'm not sure. I drive 60miles round trip every day to work..I need it trouble free for the next 50K miles...

[WiSDoM]

MY 2000 has 120,000 +/- and I drive it over 60 miles everyday and no problems. I don't worry about it. Just keep track of your oil changes and fluid levels in between changes.

[bohunk]

i ran across this on ebay $3000 for a 3.5. hope it helps
http://stores.ebay.com/ENGINES-DIRECT

[boondocksaint]

Can someone describe the rod knock sound for me? I have a sound that reminds me of an exhaust leak, but I can only hear it INSIDE the cabin. The motor makes no such noise with the hood up. Also, the motor noise is very loud (like the sound of air blasting out of it) when at throttle. This is another thing that makes me believe there is an exhaust leak.

I just drove it 850 miles. I'll be checking the oil before I leave my office in a few hours. Wish me luck.

[Y33TREKker]

Can someone describe the rod knock sound for me? I have a sound that reminds me of an exhaust leak, but I can only hear it INSIDE the cabin. The motor makes no such noise with the hood up. Also, the motor noise is very loud (like the sound of air blasting out of it) when at throttle. This is another thing that makes me believe there is an exhaust leak.

Might be that your EGR nut has come loose. The EGR valve is between the intake manifold and the firewall, and the nut threads UP into the bottom of the valve. There have even been cases where it's come all the way out of it's threads and has been found just spinning at the bottom of the EGR tube.

(Similarities from another thread) http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...hlight=egr+nut

Mine did the same thing a couple of years ago, resulting in a "dieseling" sound during acceleration. If that's the case, a simple re-tightening of the nut with a 22mm wrench should do the trick. At the time, I also applied some anti-sieze to the threads before tightening, and while I can't say for sure that the anti-sieze helped it stay tight, I do know that it hasn't happened again.

[boondocksaint]

Might be that your EGR nut has come loose. The EGR valve is between the intake manifold and the firewall, and the nut threads UP into the bottom of the valve. There have even been cases where it's come all the way out of it's threads and has been found just spinning at the bottom of the EGR tube.

(Similarities from another thread) http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...hlight=egr+nut

Mine did the same thing a couple of years ago, resulting in a "dieseling" sound during acceleration. If that's the case, a simple re-tightening of the nut with a 22mm wrench should do the trick. At the time, I also applied some anti-sieze to the threads before tightening, and while I can't say for sure that the anti-sieze helped it stay tight, I do know that it hasn't happened again.

Much obliged. I'll check it as soon as I can. It was about a quart low after about 1000 miles of driving. I know that's within spec to Isuzu, but not for me. I'll be replacing the PCV and EGR soon. Which part of the EGR tube should be replaced? I know there are two parts. I just don't know which one clogs. I've got my fingers crossed that this will eliminate the oil burning for a while.

[Y33TREKker]

...I'll be replacing the PCV and EGR soon. Which part of the EGR tube should be replaced? I know there are two parts. I just don't know which one clogs. I've got my fingers crossed that this will eliminate the oil burning for a while.

The tube itself is generally what can become clogged, but it doesn't necessarily need to be replaced. It can be taken off and cleaned too.

While I didn't read through the entire thing, this thread has a link that probably includes about everything you would ever need to know about the EGR valve: removal and re-installation, cleaning, etc.

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...light=egr+tube

[boondocksaint]

The tube itself is generally what can become clogged, but it doesn't necessarily need to be replaced. It can be taken off and cleaned too.

While I didn't read through the entire thing, this thread has a link that probably includes about everything you would ever need to know about the EGR valve: removal and re-installation, cleaning, etc.

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...light=egr+tube

Again, much obliged. I know little about these cars, but am not new to wrenching on cars overall. Had a Subaru Impreza WRX/STi for a few years and recently totaled my 99 E36 M3. Turning a wrench isn't new, but the first time doing things is still just as intimidating now as ever.