Custom Paint Problem, Please Read and Comment

[NC_VX]

I posted back in March about how excited I was to get a new Black Paint Job. I keep my VX garaged, but when I drive to work its in the sun alot. Anyway, I was washing it last week and noticed the hood and around the whole front end it looked like I had spots on my car. Closer examination shows that the paint seems to be separating in spots and exposing something (like white paint) below. Its rough to the touch, and almost likes its slowly bubbling. Cause of the clear coat I really can't tell whats going on. Before I call the paint shop I want to be able to sound like I know what the hell I am talking about in case he blames fault on me... Like the soap I use or something... COuld it be he didn;t put enough layers on it and the heat of the engine is causing this separation?

Any words of advise would be appreciated!!!

[Apostle]

Sounds to me like he used a crappy primer

paint is not sticking

and the heat should not effect the paint this soon. when you paint you usually bake it for a while (to cure the paint and also to help it dry)

if anything the heat should help it this soon after the paint job

I'd take it back and make him redo it

[UNEVEN THOUGHTS]

I agree with Apostle, sounds like a primer problem. When I got my 944 repainted black the same thing w/ the rough greyish spots happened to me. Soon after those appeared the paint on the rear quarter pannels started to crack into a spider web pattern. Turns out the shop used half a can of old primer when they did the hood area (hence the paint not sticking properly) and on top of that the job was split between two different guys so the rear pannels got F'ed up too. The shop owner paid to have it redone at another guy's hotrod shop that was alot more expensive. I ended up with a custom shade of blackpearl and a flawless paint job for $850. MAKE THEM REDO IT and maybe you'll make out as good as I did.

[NC_VX]

Wow, great feedback... I will do that right away. Maybe I can get that pearl finsih to it. Did u have to redu the entire car, or just the front of it? I figure the whole car right?

Keep me posted!!!

[UNEVEN THOUGHTS]

Don't let them talk you into just redoing the problem areas, get the whole thing resanded, primed, and painted. If it's one of those nation wide chain businesses tell them you are going to write a letter to their homeoffice or something. If it's a small shop you should only deal with the owner about this. See if they'll do something special with the paint job because of the problems they've caused you. You'd be surprised what an owner will do to keep you from bad mouthing his shop.

[PeteVX]

I'm not an expert but agree it sounds like bad primer or bad paint too, i've painted a couple of vehicles in the past and know that 2 pack paints where you add a hardner to the paint can go off if they are old and cause problems down the line, i was told by the paint shop to always just buy enough for what i need and discard any leftover.

Pete

[WormGod]

That usually happens when...

1- the wrong paint is used with a primer. A good urethane paint over a laquer primer is a no no.

2- paint was applied too thin. When paint settles, it actually spreads more. This can happen over many months after delivery. It could eventualy reveal the primer base below the color base.

3- primed sureface was not prepped properly. Usually, a special solvent is used over the primed surface previous to clean before basecoating. If they missed a spot, didnt proerly remove the solvent, or simply didnt USE the solvent, this will create a blemish so that the basecoat will not stick to that surface, causing what is called "blistering" or "dry socket".

Return to them and state your complaint.

[t2p]

...... and this can by why some shops will strip the surface (paint) .....
.
there are times when just about nothing will get rid of the residue that exists on the paint .......wax ... silicone ..... or whatever ........
.
and even a coat of primer-sealer ..... sealer ........ whatever ....... will not make a difference .......
.
.
not sure if this was metioned - primer has a tendency to 'shrink' ....... and there could be problems if the paint was applied to the primer too quickly ...................

[WormGod]

Primer will shrink MUCH faster than paint in most cases. A cheap primer (laquer primer) is simply a gray filler mixed with laquer. Laquer evaporates at an extremely high rate, and this is why primer tends to dry faster. This can create 2 problems....

Primer applied TOO dry will create a surface that acts as a sponge. REALLY bad on the paint basecoat and the paint loses surface since it is sucked into the primer.

And primer that has too much laquer tends to remain wet under the surface and this can create serious internal problems (most likely what has happened in this case).

It is essential that, first off, the right primer be used. If your cladding is painted, a laquer primer is the WORSE possible thing to use. Laquer primer needs a solid surface, such as non flexible metals. NEVER should be used on plastics. Even spot jobs. A flexible polyurethane primer should be used. The laquer can also damage the plastic (melt!) and stop adhering.... causing peeling in time.

Hell, I am in the wrong industry. i should have stuck with paint and body repair. Jeez do I miss it

[NC_VX]

This really puts me in a better position when going back to the body shop. Thanks for all the insite...

Wormgod, whens the next DC Event? I'll be up the 31st of July for the MLS All-Star weekend....

Thx

[WormGod]

Couldnt say man. I hate putting events/meets together. Dont like the responsibility.

31st..... hmmm, I will JUST be getting back from Vegas, so who knows what I will be up to. Probably working.... to pay back a debt that I owe some goombah in Vegas.