Bearing Repack help

[Ron Pfeiffer]

Hey Folks,

Its 30k for me, and among other things I need to repack my front bearings. I have seen the link posted here to the planetisuzu how-to site, but I still have some questions. Since the how-to post was a 2000 Amigo with different front hubs, I am unsure of how ours differ in terms of tools and parts I need to get. So:

1) What parts do I need? Part numbers?
2) Do I need any special tools? Especially any that aren’t mentioned on the planetisuzu page?
3) Do ours differ in any meaningful way from those of the Amigo on the planetisuzu page?

Thanks for the help,

Ron

P.S. Got that busted windshield fixed within a week – turned out to be far easier to get a replacement than I was afraid it might be.

[Joe_Black]

We have sealed bearings, so you'll need those and then it's pretty much just a swap-out. Make sure you get a copy of the VX shop manual on CD from the various folk here offering it, the process is detailed there.

[driver3]

The instructions for the amigo are pretty much exact. If you call up isuzu or go to autozone or advance auto you can get the bearing seals. I built the tool to take off the preload nut out of a piece of pipe, you can use a screwdriver and tap it as well (I think that's what tone did). I think after you have the grease and the seals (the $5 bearing grease tool is great) I think all the tools they recommend in that post are very useful, you don't need anything else... unless you find your bearings are burned.. each little cylinder looks scratched, then that's all you need. If the cylinders are scratched.. the bearings are covered under warranty, just put everything back together and head to the dealer for a free bearing repack... that's what I got with 70k... oh, and I have the 10/120 warranty though, not sure about 99's status now on that...

This is totally a job you can do if you change your oil, do your spark plugs.. basically if you like to work on the car. Well, it's much more difficult but it's not rocket science. I wouldn't attempt to install a super charger or anything by myself, but I've done this one alone. It's very dirty, and the first time took me forever, but each time after that has been simple.

Post any questions and I'll watch the board...

[nyc #1 ironman]

Damn, I have 57k miles and haven't even changed my barings. Is this bad?

[nater]

Here's a great tool for packing the grease. If you are lazy like me, and have an aversion to getting grease everywhere, buy one of these at Sears. It has a different brand name, but it is exactly the same.

http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/pr...ategoryID=4359

[driver3]

It's recommended every 15k... because we are all wheel drive, there is a lot more wear and tear on the front. I would get them done, just to avoid other problems. The way I see it, these are easy and from what I hear the cv's are hard, and I think this only keeps the cv's happy(er maybe, I'm not an expert on this). I would do it if I was you. Also, everyone says if you've ever dunked your front hubs.. like driven through some high water... then you need to get them repacked when you get back. The water gets into the hubs and messes with the bearings. Like this... LOL....

[Hotsauce]

Buy 6 extra of the little phillips screws, and the 2 nuts they screw into. cheap insurance if one strips the head, or they have to be drilled out like mine.

John C.

[driver3]

One quick tip on the screws... I have a bunch of extras because of the same reason, but I use an impact driver now and I've never had a problem since... they pop right out... no damage. So I guess that's a forgotten tip.. definitely use an impact driver.. I think I got mine for $12 at advance auto or murrays. Good reminder Hotsauce.. I forgot about that one.. although I never had to drill one out, I know what you are talking about.

[wareagle]

A bearing repack is easy, but may take 3 hours or so the first time. Follow the procedures on planetisuzoo. You do have to pull flanges, calipers, and rotors. Forget the hub removal tool and probably the seals. The "special tool" is a fishing scale to check preload on bearings. The screws that retain hub "nut" will strip real easy, so tap on end of screwdriver PRIOR to trying to remove screws. Also, buy a good grease, there is a differnce in quality. Mark

[Tone]

Back side grease seals MUST be replaced and will have to be if you remove the rear bearings (which is part of the job) to clean them before regreasing. You don’t need a removal or install tool for the seals if you are careful and have the right size socket. Make sure to use lots of quality grease.

[angrylittleman]

I've got a slight "whine" or friction noise when rolling slowly or creeping in traffic - or at least its most noticeable then; could this be a "lack of lube" issue in the front bearings? I don't have any prior experience with 4WD, so please excuse my "dummy" question...

Thanks!

[Ron Pfeiffer]

Thanks a lot for the pointers, guys.

I am confused about the bearings now, though. Joe Black said they are sealed, and should just be replaced. The planetisuzu site and other posters say we should repack them with new grease, so long as they are not damaged. Which is it?

Ron

[Tone]

I think Joe meant they had seals on the back side - but they are conventional wheel bearings and do not need replacing unless galled or pitted. Clean the bearings and the races thoroughly to make sure all is well, replace the rear seals and load everything up with quality grease.

[driver3]

Yeah, and the rear axles are sealed.. You need a press to get at them, but you don't need to do anything with them anyway. The fronts are just like a chevy front.. and you definitely need seals, maybe the earlier post where they said you could use them again, never actually removed the bearings and cleaned and repacked them because you can't remove the seal and use it again, it gets damaged in the removal process. They're like $5-$10 and if you're going to do the job, do it right.