From my research I only see 4.56 or 5.38 as upgrades (we have 4.30's stock). 5.38's is meant for 36"+ tires, 4.77 or 4.88's would be perfect for 33" tires. 4.77's would be pretty much stock and 4.88's I think would give you a bit more pep. You need the front and rear gears to match. As far as a locker in the front 10 bolt, I think Grandpa bob has that and has broken many CV's. If you get your front spinning and hopping, or need to take a hard turn at the top of a hill you will easily break our CV's. That is where the ARB locker comes in where you can turn it off for these maneuvers. A locker is only for offroad, and really only for going straight or close to it with an independant front end and 17 spline 10 bolt (weak axle for offroad). Lockers are not meant for someone who enjoys using the gas to get over stuff, more for crawling up and over things.
4 wheel drive cars are really only 2 wheel drive, without a traction device like a limited slip or locker.
There is a lot of work to put gears in, and I would highly suggest you get a gearing guru to do the work.
So anyone feel like going in on a group buy for 4.88 gears?
Last edited by AlaskaVX : 12/01/2004 at 02:20 PM
2001 Ironman Daily Driver... 3.5" suspension lift (OME912 springs and 1" spring spacer), ball joint flip, 1.5" front diff. drop, 33"x12.5 TrXus MT, 16x10 Eagle Alloy rims, Interceptor, PV muffler, K&N air filter, Alpine Supercharger, Bilstein shocks, and some trimming.
2000 Ironman Project LS-1 VX... very slow progress but someday....... ohhhhh someday......
Reply With Quote