Comprehensive Instructions Needed...URGENT!!

[xdfarrx]

Hey All,
I need comprehensive instructions for replacing the intake manifold. I have all the new parts from Merlin. I have already cleaned the EGR prior and am familiar, but in order to do things proper I need to remove the fuel rail, etc and want COMPLETE instructions to do so... My factory manual only mentions removing the common chamber.
I would be indebted to anyone, and am willing to paypal some dough if needed.
mahalo
Dylan

[GoIsuzu]

Can't be any help with the assembly/disassembly procedures themselves.

Only info I can give you is that there's a TSB (technical service bulletin) on all 1998 to 2003 Isuzu models equipped with 3.2L or 3.5L engine that revamps the torque specifications for the "gasket intake manifold to cylinder head". Revised torque for both the 3.2L and the 3.5L is 13 lb ft.

Other specs:

Intake Manifold Fasteners: 16 ft. lb.
Common Chamber Fasteners: 18 ft. lb.
Throttle Body Fasteners: 18 ft. lb.

[xdfarrx]

Thanks Go... Appreciated.
Truthfully I am interested in the fuel rail assembly. All the other builds, from TPS, Idle sensor, Throttle Body, etc... I am cool with. IMO the only way to get to remove the common chamber is to remove the Fuel Rail. Some have posted you can wedge the common chamber up(?) and then slide in the gaskets(?). By my experience, sounds sketchy, and I want to clean out the EGR line.

Some might ask why not just have an Isuzu dealership do it?
I don't trust them, & I am the third owner, no warranty.

[GoIsuzu]

Some might ask why not just have an Isuzu dealership do it?
I don't trust them, & I am the third owner, no warranty.

Hi xdfarrx,

I understand your distrust of having a dealership work on your vehicle. One of the biggest problems in my opinion with Isuzu dealerships is that their Isuzu franchises are generally secondary or tertiary concerns -- in other words, they don't promote the Isuzu brand strong enough, don't work closely enough with Isuzu owners, etc.

I don't believe that Isuzu is blameless in this. In the last decade or so Isuzu changed quite a bit, and not all of it was for the better. Thankfully, Isuzu *is* changing again, and so far I've been very impressed with some of the things on the horizon.

As Isuzu rebounds, I believe that there will eventually be more Isuzu-only dealerships like ours. There's only a handful of dealerships in the country that are Isuzu-only, and they tend to have the highest overall customer satisfaction ratings. Why? Because we don't have any customers *other* than Isuzu owners. Everything we do is geared towards Isuzu owners with little or no distraction.

I'm not suggesting you drive to Omaha to have us do the work. I would suggest that you look and see if one of those Isuzu-only dealers are located anywhere near where you're at. I don't think you'd be disappointed if you tried 'em.

[GoIsuzu]

Thanks Go... Appreciated.
Truthfully I am interested in the fuel rail assembly. All the other builds, from TPS, Idle sensor, Throttle Body, etc... I am cool with. IMO the only way to get to remove the common chamber is to remove the Fuel Rail. Some have posted you can wedge the common chamber up(?) and then slide in the gaskets(?). By my experience, sounds sketchy, and I want to clean out the EGR line.

Spoke with my Saturday tech. Suggestion was to remove the fuel rail. Shop steps for removal of the common chamber is thus:

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. Disconnect Intake Air Tempterature (IAT) sensor and Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF).

3. Remove air cleaner duct assembly.

4. Disconnect accelerator pedal cable and automatic cruise control cable from throttle body and cable bracket.

5. Disconnect vacuum booster hose from common chamber.

6. Disconnect connector from manifold absolute pressure sensor, idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, solenoid valve, electric vacuum sensing valve, and Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve.

7. Disconnect vacuum hose on canister Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) and positive crankcase ventilation hose, fuel rail assembly with pressure control valve bracket.

8. Remove ventilation hose from throttle valve and intake duct.

9. Remove the four throttle body fixing bolts.

10. Remove EGR valve assembly fixing bolt and nut on common chamber and remove EGR valve assembly.

11. Remove two bolts from the common chamber rear side and remove fuel hose bracket.

12. Remove the common chamber four bolt and four nuts then remove the common chamber.

[Ldub]

Dylan,

When I did my s/c the injectors all came out of the intake with the fuel rail.No small amount of effort was required to get that assy. removed.But even MORE effort was required to remove each individual injector from the fuel rail.If your application allows, you may wish to leave your injectors in the f.r. when you do the switch.

[Hotsauce]

A few tips:

You must must must have an extra long needle nose pliers to get off the fuel supply and return lines from the nipples.

You will need 22mm open end for egr nut

No need to pull TB from upper manifold, remove as an assembly.

Drain about half the coolant before you start, or it wil pour out when you remove the hoses from TB


John C.

[xdfarrx]

Thanks you guys are great!-
Go Isuzu... really positive and thanks for the subtle heads up. My third Isuzu, and this one I really love- I look forward to them stepping back up... To bad Omaha isn't closer....lol.
To all else I have pulled off all the fore mentioned to clean my TPS, Idle valve, EGR plenum, and EGR valve.
I am familiar with all the disassembly, and assembly up to the fuel rail. I stopped at reinstalling new Intake Manifolds due to the complexity of the fuel rail(not un bolting but removal to have free and clear ability to work). All the direct injection stuff was pretty easy... and I dielectric greased ALL connectors, but the fuel rail scared me from further work.
At this point my idle is stumbling, car stalls frequently, and has even thrown a check engine light only to go away... Not end of the world but distressing



At this point I have offered Tone a plane ticket and a little California dreaming to help me get my girl back to the state of grace she once so proudly rolled the streets in. If the cost are reasonable, expect to see pics of Tone beachside soon.

Thanks Again!

[orionfe]

Spun the #1 rod bearing in my 98 Trooper (3.5) after 156k miles, and 1000 barrels of oil. Anyway, I'm looking for the rod and main bearing torque specifications. I pulled the engine, flipped it over, replaced the rod bearings and debating on whether or not to replace the main bearings. It's still out waiting on torque specifaction. The engine ran great, no smoke, and no knocks until the bearing spun. Loved gas and oil though! I'll probably replace all of them, put the engine back in and sell the Trooper. Great little truck.

Also, if anyone knows the torque value for the rod and main bearings, please let me know. Oh yeah, and the thickness of the plastigage when torqued should be what range?

Thanks. GREAT Forum!!!

[Ldub]

Look on the right sidebar under "downloads" for the shop manual.

You should be able to find everything you need in there.