want to change my pads/rotors

[Francesco Rizzo]

Hey peeps, finally got my computer working and online again. Well, I need to do my brakes, it's 78k miles now and I don't think they were ever done... so can I replace everything with these from e-bay? I want to do it myself and am affraid I might buy the wrong thing, mess something up. thanks for you help




2 front and 2 rear cross drilled brake rotors

for the Applications listed below. Picture shows ACTUAL PARTS that will be shipped. Buy with confidence. You will receive what you see. If you need just the front or rear pair and/or matching pads, calipers and other parts, please contact us.

APPLICATIONS FRONT ROTORS: 11 inch diameter 1 3/8 inch overall height, vented
REAR ROTORS: 12 1/4 inch diameter 3 1/8 inch overall height, vented
LUG PATTERN: Front 6 X 4 1/4" (108mm) Rear 6 5 1/2" (140mm)
96-01 Honda Passport All
94-95 Honda Passport V6
96-99 Acura SLX All
98-00 Isuzu Amigo All
2002 Isuzu Axiom All
96-01 Isuzu Rodeo All Manufactured before Juan 2001
2001 Isuzu Rodeo Sport All
92-03 Isuzu Trooper All
99-03 Isuzu Vehicross All

[Joe_Black]

You shouldn't need rotors unless yours are warped or you're just looking for dress-up with the cross-drilled. You can get premium pads at Autozone or similar and they can turn and surface the stock rotors as well, saving you a bunch of money. But if you want to get performance rotors look around for slotted rather than cross-drilled as they're prone to cracking.

If you need any help with the job give a holler and I'll bring my SCUBA air tool rig to knock it out in no time. Might cost you lunch though! :bgwg:

[V-Twin hiCROSS]

Dang, I wish Joe Black lived by me!! He is always offering to give someone a hand.

[Cyrk]

I have a set of PowerSlot Rotors w/ upgrade pads and Darlington Off-Road Stainless Steel Braided Brakelines ... very happy with them.

Got the rotors from here:
http://www.truckperformance.com/prod...&sf3=VEHICROSS

Got the SS Brake lines from here:
http://darlington-offroad.com/catego...?UCIDs=1134065

[Joe_Black]

Dang, I wish Joe Black lived by me!! He is always offering to give someone a hand.

LOL! Well when my new shop is done there'll be an open invitation for the VX family to stop by for wrenching, just not all at once! So there's an excuse for you to come the FL. But I can be bribed with a plane ticket and the offer of good food.

Cyrk, thanks for the links on the Powerslots and lines! That's a nice looking setup, like your entire VX. How long have you had the rotors and what brand/composition pads are you using?

[Cyrk]

Joe, I have had the rotors, lines and pads on since around Feb 03, love the look and feel no complaints. Seems to stop quicker, I wanted to do this since I was installing the SC at the same time and knew I would be driving much faster all the time. I had some racing spec pads from overseas when N1 was around he got them for me. They we great! They wore out pretty quickly and made tons of dust... recently replaced them with OEM pads, seem to be working as good with no dust.

Thread at the time of installs...
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=2170

[Tone]

If the rotors and pads aren't worn out yet (stock pads last longer than I have ever seen), I'd strongly recommend changing just the lines first and see how much better what you already have works. Back center line is a pain to change but the entire kit made for better than new feel with my GF's 60K '01.

[VehiGAZ]

When changing pads on the VX, do you need a special tool to push the pistons back in? On my old Prelude, I only needed to twist the pistons and they would screw back in. My wife's Passat's rear brakes require a tool or jig that will twist and compress the pistons, so that means the dealer gets to change those pads.

I agree with Tone about using OEM pads... I got 75k miles out of the Honda brake pads, but a guy I knew only got 35k out of his non-OEM pads. Same goes for windshield wiper inserts - the OEMs are made to a better spec than the aftermarket blades.

[Francesco Rizzo]

thanks for all the input/offers.. I've actually been feeling a BBQ at my new house here in orlando so I might have to take you up on the offer Joe. I incidently got a nail in my tire tueday which I removed to bring in and get repaired; first time I saw the pads and disk up close on the front right. It seems like there's quite a bit of pad left on the front and the disk itself looks good, but I'm not exactly sure what I should be looking look for. I've done bearing/brakes stuff before on other vehicles, but the vx looked a little intimidating. Anway, if anything I think they might need to be turned and surfaced like joe said, so I'll looking into it some more. By the way, I've always wanted to lift my vx and now that my tires look to be wearing thin... it might be time for the mudders, so maybe I might be trying to come up to to visit Joe if it's cool with him. I love my adjustable ranchos and wouldn't want to give them up though.. I'm jacking my own thread

[Tone]

Don't turn the rotors unless they need to be as that weakens them and makes them more prone to warping. Are they not working correctly? Again, do the lines before you do anything and get the speed bleeders to make the job easy. I changed to the powerslots (had toasted a stock rotor) and their performance pads and could only tell a minor difference. Changing the lines made a MAJOR difference.

To change the pads, you'll need a large C clamp or a large pair of channellocks to push the brake piston all the way into the caliper. If you have the caliper off for an extended period, it is a good idea to put a small piece of 2x4 in the caliper to prevent the piston from extending all the way out and making a mess (plus it is difficult to get back in the caliper if it comes out)

[Joe_Black]

Just let me know and we'll work a time out, got some free weekends coming up so shouldn't be a problem. I've got the tools and specialized caliper equipment to make it fast and easy, figure a couple hours depending on how long any outside rotor work takes. As is most things Isuzu, the stock rotor is oversize for the job and takes quite a bit of wear and abuse in stride. A good surfacing is probably all you need with some good pads available at the local AutoZone. Most of the rallycross folk have been running the Axxis pads with great results, especially the rocks and sand of Florida. A little dustier than stock pads, you can find them at most autoparts places. Thanks to Navigator here's the part numbers if you want to shop prices:

PBR/AXXIS Ultimate Brake Pad part numbers:

D 770 RU Front full set
D 771 RU Rear full set

Tone's comments on replacing the lines is something that could be done at the same time and will really firm up the pedal for you. I've got vacuum bleed equipment so it'd add very little time to the job if you want to go ahead and order the parts.