Rough Running after Timing Belt Install

[Joe_Black]

Glad you got the problem solved! Just goes to show, we all can still find more to learn.

[Dare2Dream]

Yep, glad to see you get through the nightmare!!

[VCrossfan]

WOW...I got lucky...I rotated mine several times with the original belt still in place,Verified the belt was in the correct location (in time) removed the old belt and reinstalled the new one without moving anything. Thanks for the headsup and great to hear your on the road again....some of these post (like #45 and more) should be in the "how to" reminders....

[mbeach]

I'm not usually "that kind of guy" but I just have to point this out:
I told you what was wrong, and what you needed to do exactly 8 days and 32 posts ago.
We can't sugarcoat every answer -be mindful of that fact whenever you (anyone) asks a question here. Sometimes the answers suck, but at least they are answers.

[kpaske]

Mbeach -

Yes, you nailed it, 8 days and 32 posts ago... However, call me stubborn, but I didn't feel like you adequately explained how you came to that conclusion, which is why I continued to seek out answers. I'm not the type of guy, who if he can help it, will throw in the towel the first time he doesn't understand something. Unfortunately, I'm still not sure I understand the problem, but at least my VX is back on the road. Maybe your explanation was great, but I honestly didn't get it, considering the fact that I followed the manual's instructions to the letter. Am I a fool for wanting a second or third opinion before shelling out a few hundred bucks?

I did get the mechanic to give me the printouts of the TSB with the procedures for reindexing the cams, in case anyone ever runs into this problem again. When I have the chance, I'll scan them in and see if I can post them on the site, or put links to them on my web site. While I usually prefer to learn from other people's mistakes, this time hopefully someone can learn from mine.

[mbeach]

Thanks for being so gracious Kyle, my post really didn't have the tone that I would have preferred.

It's just nuts that the instructions that you were provided were SO wrong. That's really a problem. This thread should be cleaned up and stickied in the How-To section.

If the manual was wrong about the timing belt -what else could it be wrong about?

[-wadestock-]

You wrote:
"I did get the mechanic to give me the printouts of the TSB with the procedures for reindexing the cams, in case anyone ever runs into this problem again. When I have the chance, I'll scan them in and see if I can post them on the site, or put links to them on my web site. While I usually prefer to learn from other people's mistakes, this time hopefully someone can learn from mine. "

After reading all 4 pages of this....you left out the punchline!!!!@#$#$$#@
Without showing the scan of the TSB.... can you at least reveal what the basic problem was?

[kpaske]

Wadestock -

I can't explain it because neither I, nor even the mechanics that fixed it, really understand why this happens. But the bottom line is that if you change your timing belt, DO NOT under any circumstances, rotate the crank or cam pulleys with the belt off or it can seriously screw up your timing. The catch is, this is the exact opposite of what the ISUZU service manual says to do.

I'm moving out of my house tomorrow, or else I'd scan the TSB and post it. I might get to it Monday.

KP

[psychos2]

mbeach, the fact that it is wrong in the manual is no suprise.and they do release TSB's for a reason.to correct something that they previously told you to do the wrong way.

kpaske, you are welcome, glad i could help. shawn

[VXJIM]

I replaced my belts at 120,134 miles but the dealer said they were in good shape. As the original owner since Aprill 99, except for tires, brakes, two radiator hoses and an EGR valve that's all I've done and it runs great! The VX has been very reliable. Never had an intake manifold problem or break down.

[Amnesia]

SOLUTION outlined:
I have around 222,000 miles on my VX and had previously replaced my belt twice with no issues. The 3rd time I recently replaced my belt, I ran into this issue. The FSM / CD have the procedure wrong. Apparently the 3rd time I did it, I deviated (or followed too closely) the instructions about rotating the cam sprockets up to 9 times to get them in the correct position... I found a video on youtube that outlines the correct phasing procedure.

In a nutshell. Line up your crank as indicated. Line up the notch on the passenger cam pulley as indicated, by rotating until the notch "snaps" into place at the 12'oclock position and lines up with the mark on the cyl head. BUT... BUT - the passenger pulley MUST be rotated until it "snaps" into place with the notch at the NINE o'CLOCK position. THEN rotate it an additional 90' clockwise until the notch lines up with the mark on the cylinder head. Now install the belt as indicated and all will be well.

And yes, the job goes MUCH faster the 2nd time through!

Hope this helps!

[Scott Larson]

This was all covered in Bart's timing belt replacement write-up years ago, you do realize that you're responding to a thread that is over six years old...Just sayin'.

[Amnesia]

I didn't do a search, but figured even if it had been covered elsewhere - it couldn't hurt to add a final resolution here for those that find this first. More places it's mentioned, the better the odds of someone coming across it I figure.

[Scott Larson]

You've got a good point there, my bad...

[Greasemonkey]

Just to give a good tip -
Line up the crank to TDC using the timing marks on the out side of the oil pump which is a notch and the cut out on the inner side of the crank sprocket then mark the cams with tip-ex correction fluid - this way you know they are spot on - I also mark them in three places along with the crank sprocket - when removing the old belt push the long section of the belt in hard using a lever and pin the tensioner - then remove the tensioner - the cams will flick round once the tension is removed - but try to let them loose slowly using a spanner on the cam bolts - use bulldog clips or clothes pegs to hold the new belt in the right place on each cam and cable ties on spanners to hold them against the springing action works great - fit the tensioner and pulley assembly to the right torque and lever the new belt to release the pin on the hydraulic tensioner - turn over three times jobs done
cheers
Steve
PS removing the power steering pulley helps with removing the timing covers too