Driver's Side Window Went Bye-Bye

[transio]

When I hit the switch, it makes a click, but no juice. I don't think the click is the sound of the switch being depressed, because when I depress the passenger window switch, I hear the click at the passenger window rather than at the switch.

So what I think is that the switch is functioning, and it's getting juice, but something in the motor is either burned out or not functioning.

Any ideas what it could be? How can I test it out before spending hte $$$ for a new mechanism?

Thanks.

[Joe_Black]

There's a relay (what makes the click) and a fuse between the switch and the motor, so start checking there. The window motors are pretty robust, so my bet would be relay or fuse. Do you have a multimeter?

[Chopper]

I'm bettin' on the actual switch in the door. The motor would've gotten slower, and maybe quit half way up a few times first... regulator, same deal... usually some warning, often lots, before actual meltdown. Switches, like fuses, generally quit. Didn't look, but I'd bet the door switches are common to Rodeo, Trooper and Axiom too. Cheap, easy fix. Check all fuses?? How 'bout the all important window locks (just playin') Good luck, either way the fix is not a complicated one

[transio]

There's a relay (what makes the click) and a fuse between the switch and the motor, so start checking there. The window motors are pretty robust, so my bet would be relay or fuse. Do you have a multimeter?

I was hoping there was a fuse in there, though that doesn't make much sense. I have a voltmeter, but I think it's only for 110v AC. Is a multimeter expensive?

[Joe_Black]

Sears has a decent multimeter that normally sells for about $30 and on sale occasionally for $20. Good to have for general electrical issues and since it's a real multimeter can handle AC and DC stuff.

Definitely check the switch too as Chopper mentions, but if you're hearing the click from somewhere other than right at the switch then that means your relay is getting juice. The relay is basically a higher-current switch operated by a lower-current switch. If it's clicking, then the high-current side may be stuck or not operating. If it is, then there's probably a blown fuse. Remember, you've got the fuse box under the hood on top of the passenger-side fender and the fuse panel at the left-side of the dash when you open the driver door. I don't remember where exactly the window fuses are, but both panels are labled.

[cyan328]

window regulator

[tbigity]

this vehicle is now mine, as most of you are aware, and in preparation for selling it I am fixing these little annoyances. I have put two new window motors in (since they ultimately were fried) and now 2 new regulators. The regulators were just trash...they are too rinky-dink to get the job done. The new ones did not fix the problem (of the window rocking forward and getting hung up in the weather strip when it is going up). The regulators are back on their way to Scarff. Any other ideas?

[VehiGAZ]

Replace the window tabs with them metal ones? That seems to be the weak point of the mechanism.