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Thread: Brake line repair?

  1. #1
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    Brake line repair?

    Does anyone know if/how you can repair a metal brake line? I had a shock break which dented the brake line and has since turned into a leak.

    If you can't think of a way... or it just shouldn't be done... how the heck would you replace it/get the new one in there? Is the only way trying to lift the body and squeeze it in/out there? I don't have the money to hand this off to a shop so any suggestions would help.

    I am not at home and don't have my Vehicross CD available, how does it say to do it on the CD? This is a rear brake line, it runs down the passenger side and is closest to the center of the vehicle.
    2001 Ironman Daily Driver... 3.5" suspension lift (OME912 springs and 1" spring spacer), ball joint flip, 1.5" front diff. drop, 33"x12.5 TrXus MT, 16x10 Eagle Alloy rims, Interceptor, PV muffler, K&N air filter, Alpine Supercharger, Bilstein shocks, and some trimming.

    2000 Ironman Project LS-1 VX... very slow progress but someday....... ohhhhh someday......

  2. #2
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    You can do a repair if you have a flairing tool, and a tubing cutter. New unbent brake lines are sold at many parts stores. You cut the line, flare it, then use a fitting to join them.

    If you aren't comfortable doing this, pay a real mechanic to do it.

    John C.

  3. #3
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    Hey Alaska, was just looking through the manual, as for repairing it, I didnt see anything on the subject. I would think with something to flare the existing line, that it would be possible to cut out the leak and put a new piece in.

    As for removal and installing the brake pipe, the vx disc is very basic, saying that there is just a couple plastic clips to undo near a cross member. And of course both ends of the pipe, I have no idea if a replacement would be pre bent or if it can be ordered in straight lengths

  4. #4
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    Damn, hotsauce you type faster than I do lol

  5. #5
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    Thanks Guys!

    Thanks for the suggestions, however I found a much better way of going about it.... a local tubing place will make me a steel braded line for it, I can just cut the existing one to get it out, bring it in so they can get the measurements and fittings, then run the new one on through.

  6. #6
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    They would still need to cut and flare the old line in order to attach your braided flexible line.

    Since it's a front brake line, it shouldn't be too long. There's no reason why you can't find a suitable replacement from a junked Trooper.

    I have the bending/cutting/flaring tools all in my toolbox (yet I refuse to fix this leaky MC). I/we need to get together someday. I still want that hoodscoop

  7. #7
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    Are you talking about making the entire run of that brake pipe from braided flex line? If so, just a thought so take it for what its worth; would it be a good idea to have different lines for each side? Maybe different volumes of fluid on each side would affect the braking?

    For ex. they always say for brake pads change both sides at the same time. Just wondering if that could cause problems later down the road for ya.

  8. #8
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    Why would you replace a peice of hard line with an ss braided line. Isn't the purpose of SS Braided lines to be used in place where a hard line cannot be used and to get better performance than a rubber line?

  9. #9
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    Well it is a rear brake line, and it would be a pain to pull out and especially getting it back in without any tweaks in the line. Soo I am replacing the entire hose with braided SS. I'm not sure how they plan on doing it but I am guessing they will just cut the fitting's off my existing line and attatch them to the braided line.

    Ruflyf, that is a good question.... I guess I will just find out the hard way.

    Volume311 I am replacing it because it is spewing brake fluid... going through a bottle every 3 days

  10. #10
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    A rear brake line would be even easier than a front. Each one only runs half the length of the axle.

    You might want to take another look at that.
    I am away from my manuals, but I'm fairly certain that there's a single rubber line that drops onto the axle, and from there it is split into two hardlines, one for each side.

  11. #11
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    I will look again but I am fairly certain that it runs the entire length of the vehicle above EVERYTHING. And above a box in the back passenged side that will not come off. If there is a flange/some type of connection between there.... I didn't see it.

  12. #12
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    O.K., I just crawled out from under there...

    You didn't break A rear brake line (they are located on the rear side of the axle, away from the shocks). You broke THE rear brake line. If it broke near the top shock mount, you are seriously lucky that you didn't take out one of the 3 fuel lines in the same area (actually mounted right next to that brake line).

    You can take it in and get it spliced for a few bucks. A good brake shop will be able to fit you for a hardline and compression fittings for less than $75 Alaska dollars.

    You are 100% correct, to remove that entire line and replace it (with one from another VX or a SWB/2dr Trooper) would be a PITA. It is one piece all the way to the ABS module. Also, I've found that the plastic clips that hold those hardlines to the frame tend to harden and get brittle. Trying to pop out a line will break it, and then you'll be left with a floppy brake line. You'd need to get all new clips as well as a new line.

    I would still stick with a hardline repair unless the break is on or very near a bend.

  13. #13
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    Yup thats the one THE brake line

    The break is in between 2 90* bends but is on a straight section (4-5" long) just not much room to work with as it is not just a hole but a dent that is 2" long that has sprung a leak. I would be happy to pay a shop $75 for a hardline repair but I don't think any shop would do it due to liability issues, but I may just stop by a few shops to see what they say today.

  14. #14
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    Maybe get the whole length, just use the rear section...put the joint in any accessable area forward of the dent. Or as someone else said, bend the needed section yourself (trial an error a bit, but not that hard) Just keep compression fitting joints in easy places

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