If finances alow, spend the euros and go as light as possible.Lose a kilo at each corner, and you will be suprised at the handling difference---lose two, you'll be startled. Unsprung weight is the enemy.
If finances alow, spend the euros and go as light as possible.Lose a kilo at each corner, and you will be suprised at the handling difference---lose two, you'll be startled. Unsprung weight is the enemy.
...That's why I have a set of 2003 Nissan Frontier SC wheels on their way. 16x7, +20. Cast, but strong and light at 19 lbs. I'll pick up 36mm (1.5") of track width, yet I'll still be able to run the narrower tires that I like.
I might be the only fool on earth who puts on the 18s in the winter, and saves the 16s for summer.
Being that you're on the righthand side of the Atlantic, you should have a lot of choices in the lightweight wheel department. Compomotive and Kosei immediately come to mind. I couldn't find a US dealer for either.
I was under the same impression., since you posted this remark in the thread below.I thought our offset was a +38 mm
Stock wheels are offset +38mm, which means they're inset 1.5". I'll try to get pics soon of how much I had to trim.
Transio, you posted this thread a while back:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ghlight=offset
The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types.
Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
Positive
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.
Negative
The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.
If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly.
I have to order the wheels in the USA so they will have to fit perfectly, cause I probably won't be able to return them.
Last edited by thedutchguy : 04/18/2006 at 12:10 AM
VX : CLOSEST THING TO A CONCEPT CAR!
Mbeach, you have any ideas what the stock 16in rims weigh?
I don't know about the 16s -the 18s are in the 25-30lb range (I'll find out next week for sure).
To get an idea, look for "wheelweights.com" or something similar. It's a large database of user submitted wheel weights for both factory and aftermarket wheels.
dutchguy, there's no reason to order from the US -you have a larger selection in Europe.
If you look for any 6x139.7 large bore wheels in the US, all you will be able to find are 20+ inch bling wheels.
It's just about impossible to find any quality forged SUV wheels under 19" in the 'States.
Don't limit yourself to the +38 offset -you won't find another in the aftermarket.
Check out the Centerline site...16,17,18 & 20" all in 8" widths in the "Tomahawk" series. Rotary forged, strong & light. Slightly more neg. offset than stock (about an inch).
I ordered the Toyota 6 holers, but ck. with them to be sure the c. bore is large enough.
Also if you order from them, make sure to indicate that you need 4 deep c. caps.
Ck. my gallery for pic's.
Right... I got my pluses and minuses mixed up.
Stock offset is +38mm (inset), not -38mm (outset).
The wheels I have are +2mm (about neutral).
Steve