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Thread: I'm about to buy my first VX

  1. #1
    Member Since
    Apr 2006
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    2k Ebony
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    I'm about to buy my first VX

    What are the main things to look out for? Are there any major differences and disadvantages from 99, 00, 01 years?

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    99' Astral Silver
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    581
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    Welcome aboard. Seeing as there's a lot of things to learn about the VX, the best place to start .... is here

    http://vehicross.info/forums/search.php?
    Live Free or DIE!

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Apr 2006
    Location
    2007 Suzuki V-Strom 650
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    233
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    I JUST bought mine (last Saturday).

    If at all possible see if you can review the vehicle's service records, mainly concentrating on oil changes. Everything I've read on this site and elsewhere points to the main cause of engine failure being lapses in oil maintainence. Most people who change theirs at a regular interval are more likely to keep it topped off.

    I crawled under mine to see where it was leaking and found easy to spot evidence of a poor job on the timing belt replacement. A good job should be spottable too, by looking at the silicone on the oil pan and scarring on bolts. Since mine has 99000 miles on it, having had a timing belt put in it is a good thing. Might be worth checking anyways.


    When I'm looking at a used car, before even starting it up, I do a few things:
    * check the oil - weird colors like "milky" are very bad
    * check the coolant level - look for oil, low level, or excessive corrosion
    * if it has a trans dispstick, check that - might be worth finding a way to check the VX's in any case - check for a burnt smell (bad)
    * give the PCV valve a shake to see if it has been cared for - it is a common source of problems on the 3.5L (again I found this in reading not from experience)
    * remove the oil fill cap and shine a flashlight in there - it should be clean metal with very little varnish or soot - mine has a little black but it was acceptable - heavy black indicates improper oil maintenance, be it junk oil or long periods between change
    * if you can get permission, do a compression test, making sure all cylinders are within 10% of each other


    Crawling under a car and just gazing around can uncover things. For instance, you can often spot body repair work from the undercarriage that would not be evident from the top.

    Start it up and let it idle in place until it comes up to temperature. Sniff around under the hood for coolant leakage or other things you wouldn't expect like burning oil (often overfill, but worth mentioning to the dealer when haggling). Turn the AC on now and watch the temp.. After all that, take it for a hard drive. Accelerate hard and _listen_ to the drive train. Some troublesome noises only occur after you let off the accelerator. Do this a couple times through the drive. Make sure to hit a highway if you can and feel how it rides. When you stop somewhere, listen to the engine some more with the hood open. Mine runs smooth as a top even with all its other issues. One in better shape should have no bumps or quivers anywhere in the rpm range.

    I usually buy cars in less than optimal condition, so these are little things I've picked up over the years. Many times, missing a little thing can mean heartache down the road which is why I check things that may not even seem questionable at first. A lot of times, what I'm looking for isn't necessarily a direct problem but evidence of how well the vehicle was cared for. Also, don't forget to run a carfax on it - it's only like $25 for a month of free reports.

    Good luck!

  4. #4
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    2000 Ironman VX 0031
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    75
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    It looks like Tobert has got you covered on a lot of issues, and then some. I agree, checking it out and knowing these issues is a good start.

    I really just wanted to say 'Welcome', and have fun with it. These are awesome machines. I've had my Ironman for a couple of months now, and I couldn't be more pleased, even with the passenger side window coming off track and knowing I'm going to have to get new tires soon... although I can't wait for that.

    Have fun!

  5. #5
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    2001 VehiCross (Kaiser)
    Posts
    114
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    I'm selling mine www.soundjamz.com

    59,000 miles with 100,000 bumper to bumper 0 deductable warranty, 120,000 factory drive train warranty.

    shaved handles with door pops
    rear hatch pop
    remote start, remote doors, remote windows, remote hach, radar proximity, talking warn away,etc. ret. value on alarm over $1,200
    20" wheels, show quality
    good tires
    shift kit
    Flowmaster
    custom hitch
    intake
    backup camera, w/drop down rearview screen
    two dash screens custom FG console
    2oo amp alternator
    painted cladding, chameleon
    chameleon interior
    lots of adds.

    now has interior installed, with am/fm cd, audio in pics not included

    http://www.pagerize.com/soundjamz/sy...nformation.htm

    $16,500

    Rickster
    714-713-5977
    www.soundjamz.com
    Last edited by Rickster : 04/22/2006 at 02:52 PM Reason: add link

  6. #6
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    '99 silver (#1897)
    Posts
    521
    Thanked: 0
    Geeez Rick...you're actually gonna sell???. I figured you had 4 times (at least)that sale price in audio equipment alone It had to take you weeks to get all that out.

    For those of you that have never seen his paint job it's really something. Changes numerous colors as sun hits different angles.

    Hate to see another original member leave the fold
    ________
    The Cigar Boss
    Last edited by geshaw30 : 03/30/2011 at 08:25 PM

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