No, you're right. Triflow is ~not~ what you use for the tracks, tho it is good for cables. The rubber in the front and rear tracks (the actual guides the window moves up and down in) should be siliconed, in addition to the front track being widened to help prevent the window from binding as it moves up and down this track. I merely thought that if some other unfortunate had to dismantle their door to replace a motor or regulator or to fix the tabs on their window (or to perform the Bulldoggie spacer trick), they might want to lube those cables up as long as everything was apart because it takes all of five minutes and two of those are shaking the can of lube.

And to answer your question, while lubing the cables might help keep the regulator from dragging, it will not fix the binding problem which (from what I've read in the wonderfully helpful posts on this site) is caused by the window tilting on the regulator arms and causing the regulator arm to come off the track due poor alignment and engineering of the orginal parts.

Bulldoggie came up with a spacer trick that helps address alot of the alignment problems, and I have been toying around with the idea of fabricating a set of brackets that a) addresses the spacing issue and b) eliminates the need to drill holes in the door to reposition the regulator so that the hole on the regulator arm aligns with the tabs on the window. I am waiting to get my VX back from getting painted so I can measure out how these brackets need to be made.

BTW, rowhard, I loved your how to on the headlamps and I would very much like to buy some lexan headlight cover/protectors if you can get your plastic guy to make another set. I keep meaning to PM or email you and forgetting.