Window regulator TLC

[WyldWeasel]

No, you're right. Triflow is ~not~ what you use for the tracks, tho it is good for cables. The rubber in the front and rear tracks (the actual guides the window moves up and down in) should be siliconed, in addition to the front track being widened to help prevent the window from binding as it moves up and down this track. I merely thought that if some other unfortunate had to dismantle their door to replace a motor or regulator or to fix the tabs on their window (or to perform the Bulldoggie spacer trick), they might want to lube those cables up as long as everything was apart because it takes all of five minutes and two of those are shaking the can of lube.

And to answer your question, while lubing the cables might help keep the regulator from dragging, it will not fix the binding problem which (from what I've read in the wonderfully helpful posts on this site) is caused by the window tilting on the regulator arms and causing the regulator arm to come off the track due poor alignment and engineering of the orginal parts.

Bulldoggie came up with a spacer trick that helps address alot of the alignment problems, and I have been toying around with the idea of fabricating a set of brackets that a) addresses the spacing issue and b) eliminates the need to drill holes in the door to reposition the regulator so that the hole on the regulator arm aligns with the tabs on the window. I am waiting to get my VX back from getting painted so I can measure out how these brackets need to be made.

BTW, rowhard, I loved your how to on the headlamps and I would very much like to buy some lexan headlight cover/protectors if you can get your plastic guy to make another set. I keep meaning to PM or email you and forgetting.

[Bulldoggie]

[QUOTE=WyldWeasel
And to answer your question, while lubing the cables might help keep the regulator from dragging, it will not fix the binding problem which (from what I've read in the wonderfully helpful posts on this site) is caused by the window tilting on the regulator arms and causing the regulator arm to come off the track due poor alignment and engineering of the orginal parts.

Bulldoggie came up with a spacer trick that helps address alot of the alignment problems, and I have been toying around with the idea of fabricating a set of brackets that a) addresses the spacing issue and b) eliminates the need to drill holes in the door to reposition the regulator so that the hole on the regulator arm aligns with the tabs on the window. [/QUOTE]


Adding the spacers keeps the regulator arm on the regulator track, and keeps the glass in the door guides.

The binding is from the window mounted too far forward on the regulator arm, making too much friction in the front door guide, pulling the window glass down. (tilting)

The BEST way to adjust the window glass rearward, would be to:
1] Re-glue the plastic tabs on the window bottom rearward, just under a quarter inch. Still not having any future adjustability. OR glue new plastic tabs that have an adjustable slotted hole. This would be a great option for those who have had this part break. (I'm one)
2] Have a regulator arm fabricated to be a little longer with slotted holes on the ends. That would allow forward and rearward adjustment for total adjustibility. If you look at the picture, this is extreamly difficult.
3] Slot the four bolt holes in the inside door panel, that hold the regulator arm and track. This is very easy, and it's why I did it that way. I would rather have the adjustable window tab.


It would be great if Isuzu made an adjustable window mount, but I'm not holding my breath for that.

I can't tell you, HOW GREAT MY WINDOW WORKS!
I would love for someone to come by and check for themself.

And lubing the rubber parts with silicone spray does help keep the rubber from sticking to the glass.

[Ruflyf]

Great guide.....now if I can figure out how to get them to do this....modified power window

[JAFO]

And lubing the rubber parts with silicone spray does help keep the rubber from sticking to the glass.

I'll have to try that. The outside trim on the driverside window gets pushed up by the glass when I roll up the window.