Rear Door Popper Question...Again

[Moncha]

The pic shows the pin layout for the factory switch.. The black text tells what function the pin serves.. eg. On Indicator (slit) is the internat light that comes on if the door is ajar or dashlights, the light in the switch that turns on when the dashlights turn on....

The red text tells where the leads need to be hooked to.
(The "pin switch/ground" one is for a second pin switch that will light the "On Indicator" when the rear door is ajar.. If you hook it to the regular "overhead light" pin switch, the "On Indicator" light will come on whenever ANY light comes on, making this an option)

Any other ???'s

[BBVX]

I assume (you know what that means! ) the kit you have is similar to mine. You want to bolt the solenoid inside the door several inches above the latch/lock mechanism.





You need to drill a hole through the bar that actuates the latch.



I don't remeber the size of the bit, but keep it small. Start the hole with a nailset or center-punch so the drill bit doesn't walk on you. put the cable through, loop it back towards the solenoid, and clamp the two ends together. You may have to adjust the tension of the cable a few times to get the desired result.

Hope this helps.

Brian

[Tone]

BBVX's way looks good too without the pulley or the solid wire hook that comes in the kit (it should have had instructions for it on a separate piece of paper). I only saw the part about the pulley but if you look at some of the pictures, I thought the rigid wire thing was shown. The hook hooks under the latch mechanism, the cable it attached to the rigid wire thingy with the attached screw and clamp. The cable runs up from the solenoid, over the pulley, and then hooks under the latch mechanism. The you adjust either the pulley or the cable length until the cable is almost taught. If the VX is off, it typically takes two pushes of the release button to open the door fully. When running, it only takes one due to additional current flowing through the system. I spent an hour adjusting and adjusting until I figured that one out.

[Amnesia]

Ok - I have read everything I can get my hands on and I STILL can't figure out this factory fog light switch. WHY IS THIS STUMPING ME?!! (Wait, don't answer that!) I have studied the diagram, played with this thing with a multi-meter and dash wires for longer than I care to admit... and it still doesn't make sense to me. The only conclusion is that it must be a negative ground / trigger type of switch... or would that be positve... Seems opposite of what I need.

I am trying to wire up a set of Hella Black Magics that I have mounted. As per the wiring they came with, I'll be using a standard 12V relay. The switching mechanism will be a 12V trigger from a 12V tap off of the high-beam side of the headlights. HOW DO I MAKE THIS WORK WITH THE FACTORY (fog light) SWITCH, I ASK YOU? : )
Please... someone?

Thanks in advance!

[Ldub]

Ok - I have read everything I can get my hands on and I STILL can't figure out this factory fog light switch. WHY IS THIS STUMPING ME?!! (Wait, don't answer that!) I have studied the diagram, played with this thing with a multi-meter and dash wires for longer than I care to admit... and it still doesn't make sense to me. The only conclusion is that it must be a negative ground / trigger type of switch... or would that be positve... Seems opposite of what I need.

I am trying to wire up a set of Hella Black Magics that I have mounted. As per the wiring they came with, I'll be using a standard 12V relay. The switching mechanism will be a 12V trigger from a 12V tap off of the high-beam side of the headlights. HOW DO I MAKE THIS WORK WITH THE FACTORY (fog light) SWITCH, I ASK YOU? : )
Please... someone?

Thanks in advance!

Ummm...Maybe there's no current to your scource until the high beams are on ?
Just a "maybe".

[MSHardeman]

Amnesia,

I still haven't gotten my rear door popper to work yet. Granted, I haven't spent any time on it since Moab, but the two things that I still need to do are to scrape the paint out from under the ground wire for the solenoid at the back door, and to wire in the horn relay. Moncha's diagram for the factory switch (which I have too) is great, but I don't know how to wire that into the horn relay. I got a quick diagram from Moncha that show's three wires (one wire from ground, through switch to relay, one wire from hot source to relay, and one wire from ground through solenoid to relay) for the installation, but the relay I have has four blades on it, so I don't know what wire goes to what blade on the relay and which blade remains open. This might be easier if I took some pictures and drew some diagrams.

Either way, Moncha's wiring diagram for the switches (above) work. My switch lights up when the dash lights come on and dims when the rest of the dash does. So, I know the switch is wired up right, I just can't get it to fire the solenoid at the back door. I'll keep you up to date as I try and figure things out.

[Amnesia]

MSHardeman, I will tackle the remote popper next! Like you have done, I will be wiring it to the factory (Rodeo) switch & wiring harness too. Wish me luck. I'll also be attempting to make it work off of my remote keyless entry keyfob... More relays!! Woohoo!

I don't have an answer for my problem yet (or yours), but I feel that I'm on the cusp of discovery! Check out the following link for an EXCELLENT primer on how to wire a simple relay. http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/500-001.pdf I wish I could have found this earlier today while I was at work, "working" on this!

I think that once I print this out tomorrow at work and take a little time to soak it all in, that I might just get this figured out.

Some questions that I still have are: WHY? - Are the Dashlights and Switch pins on the Foglight pic BOTH connected to the Green w/Red Stripe and WHY? - Are there two Ground pins? and WHY? - Does the On Indicator pin LOOSE power when the switch is depressed (on) and have power when the switch is off? <--My negative trigger theory.

In the meantime... If someone doesn't mind scribbling something down and posting how this system should be connected, I would be very gratefull. If not, then I guess I'll post it once I get it fingered out.

Once more, I have: 12V relay that will be wired to pass current to the lamps when the high beam circuit is energized. (12V to Relay Terminal 86 / WAIT! I think it all just gelled!!

Like Monchas picture shows... "On Indicator" pin goes TO RELAY. Yes... I read this before, but it didn't make any sense... until now! I guess I WANTED to have a 12V souce going to the relay to trigger it, but I DO. It is the 12V from the High-beam... the factory switch provides the Ground for the relay to operate! (For some reason I had it in my mind that the Foglight Switch was going to pass 12V to my relay... It all seems so simple now...)

Thank you to everyone who listened while I thought out loud! (Now I just hope it works when I try it out!) ...I still don't get why the Dashlights pin and the Switch pin are connected to the same wire. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of these two switches??

[Moncha]

...I still don't get why the Dashlights pin and the Switch pin are connected to the same wire. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of these two switches??

The dashlights and the switch pin are connected to the same source 'cuz I wanted to have the foglights come on only when my head lights (parking lights) are on. The dashlights is a given, it powers the internal light in the switch. but since I only need a low draw to activate the relay, it worked well for the switch part as well.